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Raspberry Pi 3, Pi 2, and Model B+ case with VESA mounts and more

by 0110-M-P, published

Raspberry Pi 3, Pi 2, and Model B+ case with VESA mounts and more by 0110-M-P Jul 13, 2015

Thing Info

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Summary

Compatibility
Works with the following Raspberry Pi Models:

  • Raspberry Pi 3
  • Raspberry Pi 2
  • Raspberry Pi Model B+

Details
This Raspberry Pi case inspired by my old Raspberry Pi Model B case. Like my other design this new Pi case features:

  • Access slot for Pi camera
  • Screw together design
  • Screw mounting of Raspberry Pi to case using holes in PCB
  • Built in 75mm VESA mounting tabs
  • Rotary engine (reuleaux triangle) vent design
  • High resolution STL mesh

Also, as always, STEP files of the two halves of the case are attached as well for those who would like to tweak the design for their own use.

If anyone finds any problems (dimensionally or otherwise) post them up so I can get the model fixed.

Change Log
10/8/15

  • Added base design for mounting directly to 8020 extrusions with M5 hardware.
  • Updated STL's for 25mm and 30mm fan mount tops

9/8/15

  • Added top cover design for mounting a 25mm fan.
  • Added top cover design for mounting a 30mm fan.

7/25/15

  • Added base design with 75mm/100mm VESA mounting holes.

Instructions

This part was optimized for a extrusion width of 0.5mm since nearly all the wall thicknesses are a multiple of this. The picture shown are using ABS with a layer height of 0.25mm and 100% infill.

Screws for mounting Raspberry Pi to base are #4 size and 1/4" long.
Screws for mounting top to base are #4 size and 3/4" long.
M3x0.5mm screws can be used in place of #4 screws are unavailable.

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Thing Info

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Design Tools

Autodesk Fusion 360

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This is a GREAT case... I have a project where I need to have a case to contain not only the RPi 2 but a HAT. I'm not a 3D software capable person, so would you be open to creating a version of this case where the top (red) part was deeper to provide space for a HAT which directly connects to the RPi GPIO?

About to get into the Raspberry Pi world. Ordered a 3. This case looks great - i did notice the SD card issue - so i'll have to look into that. I have another question - forgive me, it's a "im new to 3D printing" question.

Right now I am using Cura to save the code for my Wanhao Duplicator i3 printer. Works great. I've been using PLA with no problems. Ive heard that when using ABS there is shrinkage. I dont know if your model, which you said you used ABS, takes into account the shrinkage, or if you are using some software that takes it into account automatically. Do i just pull the STL into Cura, save the code with the right heat for ABS, and print? or do I scale it to 101 or 102% then save?

Thanks!

What screws are those to join the 2 parts ?

Very nice design Printed the 100mm version base. I will post photos and build comments. One item is to add some clearance under the mount so it stands up away from the monitor for air flow I'm going to use 2mm spacers when I attach to monitor.

what if I don't want a fan?

The primary version of this design does not utilize a fan. The fan versions were made by request.

but do I use the same files?

Use the files "rpi2-top_netfabb" and "rpi2-bottom_netfabb" for the standard version of the case. This version requires no fans and has the 75mm VESA mounting pattern.

what f*cking size screws does this use? Put it in the thing details for godsakes!

rj11 - in reply to rj11

sh*t I'm a moron you have to scroll (but imperial? really?)

I used 2mm cap screws all around andI started the threaded parts with a tap to form the threads Bosses and heights allow for standard lengths

I've printed 3 of these, definitely the best printed rPi case by far.

Thanks man, it's the best design!!
Could you add for mounting a 44mm fan??

Thanks again!

Gonna print it right away!

This looks really good!

Thanks!

Required screw length for top mount is far from IT standard screws.
Moving screw layer to the base of the top mount should be possible improvement.

Nice case but the Micro SD card is hard to get in and out. I have to take the top off

Mar 16, 2016 - Modified Mar 17, 2016

Great case.
I ended up putting a piece of clear sticky tape/cellotape over the top of each USB port so that fingerprints don't cause corrosion/marks that spoil the shiny.
And it fits the Pi 3 just fine!
ADDITIONAL NOTE: Raspberry Pi 3 has /friction/ fit SD card instead of push-to-release, making removing it from this case a real pain!
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:204415

Raspberry Pi 3, Pi 2, and Model B+ case with VESA mounts and more

Interesting about the Pi 3 SD card change. The push-to-release works really well with this case, but I can imagine just grabbing the SD is pretty tough. I have a simple way to maybe improve it, so I will take a look at that later.

would it be possible with a design that allows it to be sandwiched between a vesa mount and monitor?

it would require a spacer on each bolt that goes through, having them a part of the case is more solid

Will this case fit the new Pi 3 model?

A Pi 3 fits just fine.
For proof: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:204415

Raspberry Pi 3, Pi 2, and Model B+ case with VESA mounts and more
g00se - in reply to Defco

It fits but the led activity lights are in a slightly different spot. Otherwise it fits like a glove.

Yes it will. I have not tested it but they didn't change layout from B+ to 2 to 3.

Mar 9, 2016 - Modified Mar 9, 2016

Small design bug:

Thus the Pi fit’s exactly in the bottom part, there is no space left for the air to exit. You can test it with a cigarette ;-) So at least there should be a space to the side walls in a way that the airflow passes the top of the pi and can exit between housing and board.
in that case - I would recommend some spacers also, before mounting the case to a surface.

in other way - nice job. The fan does fit inside also.

great design! did you enable supports in your print?

Yes, I used supports for the recessed (counter-bore) screw holes in the top.

I like this so much, it makes me want to go out and buy more Pis. Thanks for sharing.

Do you have a version of the top with no vents/holes? I'm trying to do some custom vents and struggling to fill the holes in Blender.

Awesome part!

Yes, I can do this, shouldn't be difficult but will take a few days because I'm in the process of building a new PC.

If you are needing to print it within the next week I would recommend downloading Autodesk Fusion 360 and giving that a try. You should be able to extrude a sketch on the top surface to fill in those holes very easily.

Oh it was only if you already had one and I am a little time constrained so I'll get it done in Fusion 360.

Thanks for the advice.

I'll post up the result in case anyone else wants to do similar customisations.

Will this case be compatible with Raspberry Pi3? I'm not sure if the form factor is the same or not...

Regards

I'm answering myself: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b/

It's the same form-factor :)

Regards

I was actually just about to reply with the same link. Happy printing.

Fantastic part! Job well done.

Awesome Looking Design! Can't wait to print. May mod just for aesthetics, but this looks beyond nice in terms of details!!!

Looks great. Cant wait to print this.

Great Job! Love it. Printed it in white PLA with 0.2 mm res and 50 mm/s on my Wanhao duplicator i3. Came out perfect. Thank you for this great "Thing"

Thank you very much for providing the STEP files.

Love this - great case - and love the fact that step files are included (I wish everyone would). Thanks a bunch.

Couple of (I hope constructive) comments:

  • if anyone is using 3mm machine screws suggested as an alternative (or indeed #4-40 unc which is what I used), I would strongly suggest initially screwing in the pcb screws without the pcb in place - to pre-cut the thread. The reason is that it takes a fair amount of axial force to get the screw started, with the very real possibility of the screwdriver slipping with consequent damage to the PCB (probably rendering it unusable).

  • when assembled, there is a gap underneath the microSD socket on the base. When I first installed the fiddly (see below) microSD card I missed. It went through the gap and ended up in the cavity between the PCB and base. No way it was coming out of there without taking the whole lot completely apart. It should be easy enough to grow a feature on the base to prevent this and (given the step files - thanks again) I'll probably do it on mine when I get a round tuit. I'd suggest it for the main design.

[ MicroSD cards. I hate the things with a vengeance. They seem to have been invented for such uses as phones (where they are necessary) but are being used in all kinds of places where they aren't. Since I have meat and bone fingers rather than toothpicks I find them fiddly; there is insufficient room to properly identify them with a label and they should win prizes in the unreliability stakes for those idiot SD-adaptors they give with them. Worst thing they ever did to the R-pi. Thought they had more sense. Sorry, rant off. ]

Any chance on posting a top with a 40mm fan too? Thanks

Been using this since I got my 2 raspberry pi's, there's no hole for the reset pins though. They're up in between the "Display" cable port (not HDMI) and the power/act LED's.

do you know what the measurement you used were i.e. the distance between the usb ports because i cant find any edges in the stl to measure

thanks

Dec 17, 2015 - Modified Dec 17, 2015

Great clean design. Came our really well on my cheap Print-Rite DIY printer. Sliced with Cura and printed at 0.2mm 208C Temp.

Quick question - How do you power the fan ? Can it come off the Pi or is it externally powered ?

Thanks

I've been powering my fan straight from the 5v line on the GPIO port since I believe it's fed straight from the +5v line into the pi, I'm using a pi 2 model b though so your mileage may vary.

schematic: https://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Raspberry-Pi-R2.0-Schematics-Issue2.2_027.pdf

And then posts like this question why we need a fan at all, and i dont know the answer :)
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=127528&p=853163

My raspberry pi 3 gets up over 70 degrees in open air and they definitely need a fan. A raspberry pi 2 might not need one just running simple tasks but it gets up over 40 degrees C in the shade here in summer. Most of the people saying they run cold don't seem to live in hot climates and seem to forget there are people outside of their own little world.

As a new Pi owner, may i ask for some help. What fan are you using? Is there one that specifically connects to the GPIO port? Or any ole fan? and when you power the fan from the pins, do you need to set anything up? I'm using Octoprint to monitor my 3d printer, and i have NO idea how i would set things up if i had to (again, super new, as in got it yesterday, and hooked it up to my 3d printer this morning before work)

Thanks Rock!

No additional setup, just plugged the fan into the 5v and ground pins on the GPIO headers. You can find fans on ebay / whatever with plugs already on them to fit the pi but I just used a 5v fan from my local electronics store and put my own plug on it.

see here for a reference of which are the 5v and ground pins

https://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/73950-102-10-339300/pi3_gpio.png

This one doesn´t seem to be printable with RepG - toolchain brakes even after repairing the model :-(

Not sure what the problem would be since I've never used RepG before (even with my Flashforge). So far I haven't heard of anyone else having issues though.

I get the same error on all of these files with RepG v40r24.

How did you get it looking so clean? Compared to other makers this looks 10x better, the rest looks fuzzy and frail ....crusty even.

Are you referring to the picture of the parts that I printed? If so, thanks!. Its just a well calibrated machine, a decent camera (older Nikon D40), and a photo booth with good lighting that doesn't show all the imperfections.

I meant the quality of the print. Ah , so its the calibration then and lighting illusion. Is this PLA?

Nov 30, 2015 - Modified Nov 30, 2015

Gah, imperial screws! mutters non-kind stuff about crazy fruit tart romancing crazies while drilling out all the holes to metric measurements

M3 screws work fine too. I just like the engagement you get from sheet metal screws.

How does M3 screws fit into 2.8mm holes? are you supposed to tap them? that might work but I'm going old-school and drilling em out to 3mm and putting an nut on the back.

No need to tap. M3 screws will self-tap fine in a 2.8mm plastic hole.

Nov 29, 2015 - Modified Nov 29, 2015

How come there is no top with direct access to the GPIO pins? Why do the "break this off for access"?

I could easily add this top (or you could edit the STEP file yourself). An exacto knife slices through the 1mm thick x 1mm wide tabs like butter though, so I didn't see the need to add an additional design for this.

Like these designs !

how can I get the original model for these ... what I want to do is print a top layer, to hold a TFT touch screen (3.5 ") for my Pi ...

Thanks.

Thanks, glad you like them.

If you go to the "Thing Files" tab you will find files with the extension .stp. These are STEP files, a universal CAD format for editing in any pieces of CAD software.

Be sure to post up your design once you finish it.

Excellent box! Thank you very much for the long work!
All fits exact and snug. It's sturdy and not likely to de-laminate.
Good thinking here...

Kind regards, Bob

Thanks!

Hey, thanks for a great design, and a big thanks for including the step files.

Thanks for the compliment. Be sure to share any pictures if you print it.

Thanks for the case it works a treat fits like a glove and looks cool

wow... thats not kind....

It's perfectly fine - the license on this design allows people to sell prints if they like, as long as they give attribution. The website links back here, which counts as attribution.

Oct 24, 2015 - Modified Oct 24, 2015

Love this case, I've printed 5 sets (top and bottom) so far. Maybe 6?

I'm trying to edit/remix this, and on top of the fact i don't know what I'm doing, I'm not having much success. I can get OpenSCAD to import the STL, but it's effectively just a blob; I can't edit any parameters or see what shapes you used. So, I would have to retro engineer everything.

I tried opening the STP in OpenSCAD and I don't think OpenSCAD can open STP files.

I tried opening the STP in Netfabb and nothing happened.

What program should I use to edit this? My intent is to modify it for use with an ODROID C1+.

Oct 24, 2015 - Modified Oct 24, 2015
0110-M-P - in reply to allanonmage

Thanks glad you like it and are making good use of it.

I would recommend you download and use Autodesk Fusion 360 to open and edit the STP files. It is free for students, educators, and makers, but has nearly all the functionality of a professional CAD suite.

Just printed the 'rpi2-bottom_100mm-vesa_netfabb'. Fantastic design! Really a great piece.

Hello, I have one more question.
Why did you optimize this design for an extrusion width of 0.5mm? I mean why 0.5mm, since almost every consumer-grade 3D printer (like Ultimaker, Zortrax, UP etc.) use 0.4mm nozzle. Wouldn't making every distance multiple of 0.4mm provide better quality? BTW, I've printed the bottom part of this case, it fits perfectly and looks beautiful, thanks! :) I will print the other half today.
And sorry for posting this 3 times, it's all this comment actually. Thingiverse just doesn't sort replies correctly so I ended up posting another comment

Thanks.
It is generally accepted that you should print with extrusion widths greater than your nozzle diameter. The "go-to" default extrusion width of most slicers is 120% of the nozzle diameter. With a 0.4mm nozzle (what I use as well out of my E3D hot end) that would be 0.48mm.
The reason I choose 0.5mm is because it is much easier to design parts with features that are a multiple of that than pretty much anything else.

Oct 20, 2015 - Modified Oct 20, 2015
muhsinfatih - in reply to 0110-M-P

Ok thanks. I am studying this subject right now :)

Edit: Oh, I see. setting extrusion width greater than nozzle diameter is to fill the gap between lines by overlapping as explained here under 'spacing paths' title: http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math. But why would this affect the "go-to" default? Wouldn't setting distances between two lines to 120% result in the same gap we had earlier? I think the distance between two adjacent lines should be the same as the nozzle width while extrusion width is 120%. Even tough all the distances from left wall and right wall in your design are both multiple of .4 and .5, one side of the print has perfect smooth surface, while the opposite side does not. I don't know what caused this. I have uploaded a photo of it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2wpr3uymqri8kh/RpiCaseQuestion.png?dl=0
Don't get me wrong, this is by far the best 3d printable Rpi case I have encountered, but I am really trying to dig into perfection in 3D printing.

By the way, I printed this with UP2 with Zortrax's abs filament
Thanks in advance :)

Thanks for a brilliant design. I printed it this morning and it fits perfectly around my Pi. Great work.

Thanks for the compliment. Glad you like it.

I am going to print this, it looks amazing. But I have a question, I am trying to understand the way you decided all the distances because I am designing another case for a project and I want to take your design as a reference if you don't mind.

Firstly, why exactly 1.35 mm at rear wall of Rpi while the front side has a 0.25mm gap? (I aligned Rpi at the point that screwholes fit exactly). That way the distance becomes 86.6mm between front inside wall and rear inside wall, why not make that also multiple of 0.5 since you can easily do by removing only 0.6mm from the rear side, there is space for that. I am not complaining, don't get me wrong :) I just wonder if there is a specific reason why you made it like that.

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Thanks for the compliment!

To answer your questions, the reason the gap between the PCB and the rear wall is so much greater than the gap to the front wall is because of the SD card. I wanted the SD card to sit halfway between the inner the outer rear surface of the case and this drove the rear gap. The front gap was driven by the fact that I wanted the USB ports to be flush with the outermost front surface of the case.

This comment has been deleted.
Oct 11, 2015 - Modified Oct 11, 2015
muhsinfatih - in reply to 0110-M-P

Oh, that make sense :) Thanks a lot

Great work on the models. What software do you use to create? Slicing?

Thanks. This was created with Autodesk Inventor 2015, but I use a lot of various other pieces of SW (Creo Direct/Express, DesignSpark Mechanical, Autodesk Fusion 360, etc). For slicing I use Simplify3D or KISSlicer depending on the model. These were sliced with Simplify3D.

The opening for the power micro USB could be 1mm higher on mine. The bottom of the metal flange is 1.25mm above the bottom of the opening and the top of the opening is exactly level with the flange.

Made mine in PLA because I'm waiting for my heated bed for the M3D. It fits fine.

Thanks for the input. Mine is actually similar if you look closely at the pictures. When I designed it, I was torn between designing it as mine was made or as it is dimensioned on raspberrypi.org. I eventually went with the official dimensions because I figured that would have a better chance of working for more people.

Since I've now installed it on the back of the monitor and have everything working the opening is working fine so I wouldn't change anything.

This comment has been deleted.

I used M3 socket head screws and they worked great.

No, they are imperial #4 size sheet metal screws (similar to a wood screw). They are closer in size to an M3 than anything else metric, so an M3 will probably work. For reference, the holes in the base of the case that receive the screws have a diameter of 2.8mm and the clearance holes in the top of the case are 3.8mm.

Example of the screws I used...
https://www.boltdepot.com/Sheet_metal_screws_Phillips_pan_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_4.aspx

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Technically the entire thing is metric since I design in metric. The only thing that isn't metric are the holes that are sized for imperial sheet metal/wood screws. The reason for these screws is they can cut into the material better than fine pitched machine screws.

If there is a specific dimension you would like I would have no problem uploading a version for you but like HooptieJ said, M3 seems to work fine in the model as is.

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My printer has a 0.35 mm extruder size. Will your files still work, or will I need to make adjustments?

Yes files will work fine with whatever nozzle size you have as long as your slicer is properly configured. My statement about the 0.5mm extrusion width is just a general guideline since most all wall thicknesses are 1.0, 1.5, or 2.0mm. Your nozzle will just have to gap fill what mine does with the perimeters. Happy printing!

nice jobb :D ... but can u make the logo on the top part customazeble?

Thanks.

Customizing the part is done using the STEP files. Download the STP file for the top and open it with CAD software...blank the top out by extruding a flat surface then extrude/cut your own design....export to STL and print away.

Thanks for sharing this very nice design. I made this one in PLA and the Raspberry Pi B+ fits perfect in this case

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Fantastic design! I was wondering, I'm new to the 3D printing world, what type of plastic did you use (ABS, nylon, other)?

Thanks! This was printed using ABS.

In general 90% of my prints are using ABS, the other 10% are nylon, and 0% are PLA.

Was waiting for this for a while :D thanks

Thx, Just what I was looking for, good Job!

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First I would verify that you are trying to open the STL file, not the STP file.

Very nice, but a version for 100mm VESA can be interesting too.

Jul 25, 2015 - Modified Jul 26, 2015
0110-M-P - in reply to giuss

I added a 100mm VESA mount version. Let me know what you think if you make one.

Thank you! I'll try it soon.

This is definitely something that I could add easily. Let me look into it.

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