OB1.4 with 380x380x380 print envelope

by justLearning, published

OB1.4 with 380x380x380 print envelope by justLearning May 22, 2013

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this is wired1's excellent build of the ob1.4 with a larger build envelope of about 380x380x380mm.

I wanted to use half of the 1m openbeam length for the base.

I used the ob1.4 original diameter rods and placement, I just made them longer.

I replaced the front y axis gt2 pully with a larger one from sdp-si.com : 6Z51M036DF0605 , so it would clear the openbeam rail.
this pulley has 36 teeth.
I also had to buy more gt2 belt due to the larger build envelope, this is sdp-si.com part number: 6R51MC060 , I had to use 3meters total for x and y axis.

using a lazy susan bearing for the filiment feed.
tried a bed made from granite tile 12" x 12", but it cracked at 70deg C.
so I'm now using 0.25" x 15" x 15" t6061 aluminum plate over 0.375" x 15" x 15" plywood connected directly to the standard ob1.4's y-carriage.

printing on blue painters tape and if needed hairspray.
the tape is applied directly to the aluminum plate.
using hossman's dial indicator attachment the aluminum plate is level to +-0.010" over it's surface, ie front to back and side to side; it was easily adjusted using the spring setup showed in the pictures.

I'm using plastic zip ties to put the electronics and power supply on the ob1.4 frame so it all moves as a unit.

I'm using hossman's long lcd cable configuration and I've had no issues.

I'm using repetierHost in ubuntu 12.04 linux and really like it.
I'm using slic3r which comes with repetierHost.

I was having globing issues on printed parts as seen in the pictures on z height over about 12mm, this turns out to be an issue where repetierHost needed to have the ping-pong communication turned on, DOAH ! I suspect repetierHost was not waiting for the marlin software and just throwing g-code away.

The printer is working very well now at 50mm/sec print speeds.
after some more finer calibration I'll try to up that speed to see what margin it has.

thanks again to wired1, hossman and nate for all their help.


my build notes if it helps anyone else: Intsall arduino ide for ubuntu 12.04, used the repository. sudo apt-get install arduino installs version 1.0.1 Marlin download to Taurino got marlin firmware from reprapdiscount US resaler location loaded the marlin.ino from the reprapdiscount bundle. set arduino ide for Mega 2560 verified Marlin.ino project compile, no errors reported. connected usb to taurino, only usb. downloaded Marlin.ino project to taurino. complaint about no usb, arduino suggested another port which did work. removed usb to taurino. connected lcd header/ribbon cable to taurino. connected usb to taurino lcd and firmware worked. Stepper Mechanical Setup and Test apply heat sinks to stepper drivers tip: to check stepper wire pairing: with wires not connected to anything turn stepper shaft and note resistance. connect two wires (red,green in my case using kysan 42bygh4803-dc) note higher turning resistance, that's a pair. connected stepper header to ramps1.4 board blue toward power headers. power supply 24v 16amps 120v hot goes to "L", neutral goes to "N", earth ground goes to "ground symbol. verify voltages out of +V / -V. two of the "+V" goes to ramps 1.4 "+11a" and "+5a". two of the "-V" goes to the ramps 1.4 "-11a" and "-5a". NOTE:D1 on reprapdiscount universal taurino/ramps/lcd/ board does NOT need to be removed. tested stepper; used taurino/lcd menu to auto-home. Configuration.h settings set baud rate Repetier-Host v0.85c only works at 115200 baud line 20,21 change to 115200 see Repetier-Host info below must have j-head thermister hooked up for repetier-host to work/test servos, marlin software with shut down any movement if thermister falls below temp-min. current limit to j-head resister Very important is (thanks to Triffid Hunter) to change your PID_MAX to 64 (and of course use PID control!). Thermisters reprap thermister guide. set thermister type in Configuration.h starting at line 75. our j-head is the Mk V-BV and uses the thermister 5 setting. 20 lines prior are notes to sensor type value. set max temp at line 96, to help on overheating. note: mintemp line 88 is to check for broken thermisters and runaway maxtemps. End stops endstops from reprapdiscount has led on board/switch so the endstop 'hit' led comes on. need to hook up 5v/vcc for led to work. No vcc, swich/endstop still works. upper right of ramps board. signal,ground,power blue,black,red for mechanical, just need signal and ground. check status of endstops with the gcode M119 ENDSTOPPULLUPS at line 194 enables the use of pullup resisters. lines starting at 198 for each access if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is NOT defined. lines 216 is for inverting end stop logic. lines 240 ENDSTOP SETTINGS for where the physical end stop is, default -1 in min/zero. test using the auto home command from marlin/lcd. Travel Limits measured in mm is at line 249 set x,y,z 400,400,380 Steppers direction of steppers is set via INVERT_X_DIR on line 233 E0 is the extruder. Don't Install hotend yet, do travel test/calibrate first. Test 3d Printer install printer interface software in ubuntu. (see below for installation steps) set axis travel into the middle of each travel. jog in each direction to confirm travel is correct. extruder stepper can only be tested once hot end reaches 175 deg. use remote cheap harbor freight temp probe to check temps. Calibrate travel Steps Per Unit is at line 275 these are steps to get 1mm of travel. DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {39.9979,44.3273,2289.844,785.0656} steps per unit (x, y, z, e) put dial indication in for the hotend. tape ruler(s) onto bed. send axis at least 100mm to sample travel. calculate new steps per unit. NewStepsPerUnit = SampleTravelDist / ActualTravelDist x OldStepsPerUnit repeat as necessary. Mk V-BV j-head assemble resister goes to ramps at D10. green led when on. fan contorl goes to D9. red led when on. red/vcc goes down near "+" on D9. 120ohm resister spliced in. fan speed in repetierHost works for 24% to 100%. Heater Resistor The heater resistor can be installed one of 3 ways: Put a little bit of muffler repair putty on the resistor and slide it into the hole. It can be cured by letting it set a couple hours before bringing the hot-end up to temperature. Slide the heater resistor in the hole. If it fits tightly, this will work. If there is any gap, between the resistor and brass, it may result in failure of the heater resistor. Wrap a thin strip of aluminum foil around the heater resistor and adjust it by gradually cutting it shorter until the resistor and file slide it into. Care must be taken to ensure that the proper amount of aluminum foil is used in order to take up any gap between the heater resistor and the brass. Thermistor Note: Merlin frimware needs to be set for using Thermistor 5, as stated here. Insulate the leads to the thermistor. This is usually accomplished one of two ways. Use Kapton tape as insulation by separating the leads and sandwiching the leads in-between two strips of Kapton tape. Use PTFE insulation and slide it over each lead. Place the thermistor in its hole and secure it with Kapton tape. j-head assembly from Ultibots Support Team Q: Are there any instructions for assembling the hot end? A: We have searched the RepRap? community and the designer of the J-Head for an assembly guide without success. A good picture to reference is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39135 it shows the Ultibots method of assembly which is: Verify that the hollow set screw is snuggly tightened. Fill the heat resister hole with some muffler putty and insert the heat resister into the brass hole (the resister may need light sanding to fit). Apply more putty to other end and clean off excess. Fill the thermistor hole with some putty and insert thermistor into hole. Let J-Head dry for 8+ hours; really. Carefully cut and slide PTFE liners on resister and thermistor leads so 7mm of lead extends past the liner. Strip 7mm of insulation offJ-Head wire leads. Slide appropriate heat shrink over wire leads before soldering. Solder the lead wires to the resister and thermistor. Cover with heat shrink. Cover all solder joints with 1/4" heat shrink as shown. Once J-Head is attached to Micro Extruder body and motor is mounted, secure wiring to motor with a long zip tie (not shown). since we're using 24v: Very important is (thanks to Triffid Hunter) to change your PID_MAX to 64 (and of course use PID control!). notes: D1 on reprapdiscount universal taurino/ramps/lcd/ board does NOT need to be removed. software pronterface in Ubuntu sudo apt-get install python python-serial python-wxgtk2.8 python-tk git-core There are also experimental packages for Ubuntu (maverick natty oneiric precise): sudo apt-add-repository ppa:richi-paraeasy/ppa sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install pronterface pronterface printer settings: port: /dev/ttyACM0 or what is offered baud rate: 115200 see configure.h settings above repetier in ubuntu also install slic3r download tar from http://www.repetier.com/download/ *unpack and run the: configureFirst notes Make sure, your user has permission to connect to the serial port. sudo usermod -a -G dialout yourUserName You can try to install needed software automatically. You can do this any time later by running(I didn't need to do this): installDependenciesDebian. in the installation dir run it by: ./repetierHost printer settings: port: /dev/ttyACM0 or what is offered baud rate: 115200 see configure.h settings above stop bits: 1 parity: none trasf prot: autodetect recv cache size: 63 in printer menu, printer information one will see: firmware: Marlin if it states, firmware: unknown, check the configuration.h setting to 115200 baud. also if one sees the status to the printer to be xx commands waiting, the baud rate is probable wrong or the port is not correct. if repetier doesn't respond use this to kill it pkill mono etc: [email protected] will print stl printer parts of thiniverse. He's in sunnyvale. http://techpaladin.com/ bought for ob1.4 : nema 17 stepper used from kysan 1124090 $12/ea qnty 5 $60 24v 400w ps from ultibots $50 j-head mk V-BV ultibots $65 openbeam 1515 black extrusion v2, stiffer than v1 $12/ea 6 needed. nate various Pair of 5mm-to-6.35mm Aluminum Motor Couplers MC5X635? Price (each): $13.00 8mm LM8UU linear bearing LM8UU Quantity: 8 Price (each): $1.65 10mm LM10UU Linear Bearing LM10UU Quantity: 4 Price (each): $2.10 608 Bearing 608RS Quantity: 8 Price (each): $1.25 kit of 3d printer parts from reprapdiscount $200 includes Ramps 1.4 Universal POWER(24v)+arduino(24v)+Smart LCD controller+sd+6 Endstop+MK2B? heater + 1 wiring set 3x GT2? pulleys and belts nuts/bolts/acme screw/nuts/ from mcmasters $100 ob1.4 plastics kit from wired1 for $150

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What acme screws/nuts did you use? I'm having difficulties finding an 8mm on on http://mcmaster.commcmaster.com

since I needed longer acme rods, I went american 1/4" ... about 6mm.

all the plastic bits of the z-caraige works just fine with the 1/4".

the mcmaster order I placed and used is:

rod: 93410A606 one of these
nut: 94815A007 two of these

mcmaster's human readable invoice looked like this:
193410A606ASTM A193 Grade B7 Acme Threaded Rod, Alloy Steel, Right Hand, 1/4"-16 Thread, 3' L 1
each 18.97 294815A007Plain Steel Acme 2G Hex Nut, Right-Hand, 1/4"-16 Acme Size 2
each 8.08

I'm working on a build of the original 1.4. With the steel nuts, did you have any wiggle/play? I was thinking of just printing a little shim to fill in the gap, but it may also be my print not being quite right. ( incidentally, I ended up ordering the same rod/nut you did ;) )

my build shows no wiggle or play due too the nuts used for assembly. I do notice some shaking under high acceleration, easy to control though. I love this build and it's been in use for sometime now. I've had to reinforce the undercarrige with epoxy and poppsicle sticks <grin>. I hope you enjoy your build too.

I had bad level shifting only in the "y" axis direction.
I spent several days playing with repetier-hosts configuration for acceleration, travel speed, frequency, et al, some of the setting seem to help but at randome times it would show up just for a layer or two ! ! !

.... it turns out that I had a broken y-carriage ! doah !

I posted a picture so that other might reconize the issue when they see their prints looking like the one on the right and save them some time trying to diagnose the issue.

the new y-carriage now has Popsicle and epoxy splits on the 'ears' for the linear bearings.