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My Delta Printer

by robkar, published

My Delta Printer by robkar Jul 13, 2015
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Summary

This is my delta printer! The design is based on the Kossel Mini (lots of cred!) but everything is redesigned to fit my needs. I wanted it to print fast, look good on my desk and be fairly cheap!

Features (in addition to being a kossel/delta printer with what that brings):

  • Very rigid (bottom and top corner pieces have been reinforced withmore supporting material and extra fastening screws + 2020 extrusions are used instead of 1515)
  • Magnetic ball joints for minimal backlash and easy handling
  • Wires are fed through corner pieces, looks neat
  • Extruder is mounted on base extrusions so that the bowden tube can be packed together with effector cables.
  • Nema 17 motor with planetary gears is neatly integrated in the extruder design, for performance and looks
  • Effector, arm carriages and bed mounts are all designed to maximize the print height (which ends up in something like 275mm)
  • Snap on Z-probe (see my other thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:892398)

If someone is seriously interested in making this I'll be happy to help out as much as possible. If you want a list of links with all parts I have bought, just let me know. I sourced most of the non-printed parts from China, and I think the total cost ends up somewhere around 350 USD (depending on your choice of "expensive" parts; extrusions, linear rails, motors).

Overall it now prints great, compared to my Printrbot Simple Metal it is both faster and less noisy!

EDIT 15-10-12:

Instructions

Below is a BOM that should cover most of what I have used in my build. I have also documented where, and at which price, I have sourced the parts, so let me know if you are interested in that as well.

BOM:

General:

Motion:

  • 3x NEMA17 Motors
  • 6x 10x3x4 Flanged bearings
  • 3x 10x5x4 Bearings
  • 3x MGN12 400 mm Linear Rails + Carriages
  • 1x 5m GT2 belt
  • 3x 16 Teeth GT2 Pulley (ID=5mm)
  • 3x Omron mechanical switch

Extruder:

  • 1x Geared (5:1) NEMA 17 Motor
  • 1x MK7 Hobbed Gear (ID=8mm)
  • 2x 623 Bearings (ID=3mm)
  • 1x Spring
  • 1x M4x20 Screw
  • 1x M4 Nut

Effector:

  • 1x E3D V6 / V6Lite
  • 6x Carbon rods L200, OD6, ID4
  • 12x 10x4 or 10x3 magnets
  • 12x 10x4 or 10x3 countersunk magnet
  • 12x 10 mm bearing balls

Bed:

  • 1x 180mm borosilicate glass bed
  • 1x 180mm silicone heater pad
  • 1x 180mm IKEA cork pad

Electronics

  • 1x Arduino Mega
  • 1x Ramps 1.4 + Stepper drivers
  • 1x LED style power supply 12V

PRINTED PARTS:

  • 3x LOWER_CORNER
  • 3x UPPER_CORNER
  • 3x ARM_CARRIAGE_FIXED_4mmMAGNETS or ARM_CARRIAGE_FIXED_3mmMAGNETS (depends on your magnet height)
  • 3x BED_MOUNT
  • 1x EXTRUDER_1
  • 1x EXTRUDER_2
  • 1x EXTRUDER_3
  • 1x EXTRUDER_KNOB
  • 1x EFFECTOR
  • 1x EFFECTOR_TOP
  • 12x ROD_END
  • 1x SPOOL_HOLDER
  • 3x EXTRUSION_COVER
  • 1x PROBE_MOUNT (not necessary)
  • 1x EXTRUDER_WASHER (not necessary)
  • Xx T-SLOT_INSERT (not necessary)

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I am going to make one too , but in different size , I want to make 300mm size bed , so I need to know what is the length of the extrusion used , and the high is 1meter , so hope have help here , now I am start printing all the parts first , later order the extrusion , hot bed , stepper motor and electronic parts too .

Hey, did you find you the sizes yet?
I'm planning the same thing.

thnx

Hi MJN I am still looking for the material , so after found them I will let you know what is my size of build :)

I made a attachable cooling ring for filament cooling with a aquarium air compressor:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2241900

Cooling ring magnetic
Comments deleted.

Great project! Ordered most of the parts and will start building soon. Can someone post his firmware? Would be nice.

Great fucking job !! keep on with the good work ! we need people like you in the 3d printers community

Hi, is there a part cooling fan?

Thanks

I pick up the device but I could not do marlin. Can you give me

3mm or 4mm magnets ?
is there big difference ?

Wow nice build !!
this will be my next project :)

Can you share the BOM with the links for the sources? I'd like to make this.

You can share souce files?

The effector.stl has a hole it it can someone upload a fixed version?

What filament would be best to print these parts with? ABS, PETG, PLA?

Jul 8, 2016 - Modified Jul 9, 2016

Hello! Absolutely beautiful build, it looks fantastic. I'm looking to build a Kossel with 360mm long side extrusions. Would rod lengths of 288mm work? I am going to use Duet electronics and 0.9 degree steppers. Also, I'd like to use wheel carriages instead of linear rails. What do you think? Can I make it a bit taller as well? Should I use magnetic or standard joints? I'm also going with 24V. Thank you!

Hello and thanks for this great design. I want to try this. Can I also have the full BOM please? Thank you in advance.

Whats the purpose of the round "pen holder" in the side of the effector? Can you post the source files? I want to remix ix for my 12 mm magnets :)

about effector and carrige what diameter fit for place magnetic? 12mm?

Magnet diameter is 10 mm!

I'd like to remix your effector for 12mm x 5mm magnets. Any chance you'd be willing to share your original design file of the effector?

Ah to bad I need 12mm

Hi Robkar I love your printer! I'm currently using a Eustathios but a friend of would like to build a Delta printer. Can you please send me your BOM?

It an amazing improved design of delta. You have great engineer skills!
Would you so king to provide your last BOM with Duet board, specify rods with MP Jet for new effector and other cool stuff made by you?

Thanks

Of course, I'll send you a message.

Hi robkar, what program did you use to design this printer?

thanks

my builds coming on nicely, and compared to my Prusa i3 it looks shop brought.
couple of questions....how did you hide the wires going to the end stops.
and can i have a copy of your original marlin config,h because i remember how many days of my life that i lost working out the prusa i3 settings..
thanks for any help..

Nice to hear! Share some pictures at some point!

The endstop wires goes from the endstops, through one of the triangular holes in the top bracket, inside one of the side slot of the vertical extrusion, through the hole in the bottom bracket, to the electronics located under the bed. It is possible to fully hide the endstop wires!

Yeah, send me a PM with your email and I can send it to you. I have moved over to a Duet board, but I should have the marlinf config somewhere.

Hi robkar, sorry for the continuity of comments from me, but the effector top piece is not printing well for me. The two parts are too close together so they print as a solid piece. Can you please re-upload another one which has the parts a bit more spread apart? thanks!

Hm, weird. It depends on the slicer settings, for me they prints as different parts.
I have the source file on my stationary computer so I will have to modify it when I get home from traveling..
What you can also do is to split the model in your slicer!

Let me know how your build comes along!

High robkar, what is the rough build size of the printer? thanks!

The build area is around diameter 170 and height 250 mm..

Im going to build this!

Cool! I am actually also building another one for a friend of mine right now!

Hi,robkar! what's the effector has spacing for the ball stud centers? is it for 45mm the effector has spacing for the ball stud centers?I want to build a delta printer similar your's delta printer and ATOM.

Hey, on instructions is refereed T-slot inserts / screws / nuts M3 size

My problem is that i can only get this in M5, any chance to get this print parts with M5?

Thank you,

I am sorry but it would be too much work to redo everything to fit M5 screws, all parts are made for M3.

Thanks dear friend, i understand ;)

Comments deleted.

Hey. Can you post your offset settings for the snap-on probe in your config.h file?

Thank you :)

Hm, I am sorry but I have since long got rid of the probe. I found that it is not necessary for me, I got better results calibrating the printer manually..

Easiest thing for you is probably to measure the offset between the switch and the nozzle.

Hi! Your work is really great congrats! I am actually trying to built my first 3D printer and i want it to be a delta, mine would be very similar to yours and to the ATOM one, but with the size of the atom. So mine will be a bit bigger, it will be 70cm high with 38cm wide, so i have got a stupid question but i need to be sure: do you think i can just download your parts and make the bars just longer (for the angles for exemple) or do you think i should try to find some bigger and more adaptated parts?
Thank you very much!

I don't think such sized aluminum extrusions will cause any problems! You'll be able to use my parts. Just remember to also extend the carbon rods! I would guess you'll need somewhere between 260-280 mm rods. Let me know how your build comes along!

This is great! I've started ordering my part :-)

Cool! Let me know how your build comes along, I am happy to help if needed!

Comments deleted.

Did you just glue the rod ends on?
Could you share your Marlin f/w?

Yeah, I used some cheap epoxy. They are really rigid, will not come off..

What file type does it read. x3g. gcode. ?

I use the arduino mega + ramps combo, so gcode it is..

Comments deleted.

How long did it take you to receive the linear rails from china once you ordered them?

Well, I live in Sweden and it took 3-4 weeks to get them. But that probably depends on what seller you go for!

How is the quality of the bearings?

The three rails I bought for this delta was surprisingly good! Close to zero play, perfect preload etc. You can not expect them to be the real deal of course, I mean they are super cheap.

However, I bought three more rails for a CoreXY build, and one of those was totally worthless, the balls could not circulate at all in one of the carriages. I assume you gotta have a little luck, the consistency is probably not the best.

Hi robkar,

I am very impressed by your work, congrats !
I ordered the electronics parts and I started printing the rest in order to build my own Kossel mini !
However, I wonder how the magnetic joints are assembled. Is it : one countersunk magnet on the effector, the ball and a classical magnet in the rod end or something else ?
Moreover, is there a way to adjust the tension of the belts ?
Thanks.

Hello!

Thanks man! My printer is still going strong, delivering really great quality prints :)

I actually used, in each hole on the effector and carriage: 1 cylinder magnet + 1 countersunk magnet on top. On the arm I only used a steel ball. Using 4mm hight magnets the force is strong enouh for regular prints, but I guess that if you also add cylinder magnets behinf the balls in the arms, the force will be even stronger. To be honest though, I have now moved on to more common ball joints. The magnet ones works in MOST cases, but they CAN come loose mid print. See my other designs for a ball joint effector + carriages!

I tensioned the belts when assemblying the printer, then adding this piece under each carriage: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 I have never had any problem with belt tension!

Ultimaker Belt Tensioner
by Gijs

Hi robkar,

I'm still waiting for some of the parts coming from China but I started building my delta printer :-)
In the meantime, I wonder how are assembled the screw and the flanged bearings on the upper corners (as they differ from the 'classical' Kossel upper corners). Could you provide an explanation or a close-up please ?
Thanks !

I have used a long M3 fastened in the t slot extrusion. The bearings are mounted in between spacers in order to be centered above the motor pulley. The M3 bolt head is also resting in the 6mm outer hole. I'm not at the printer now, but if you have problems I can take a picture later on for you!

Hi robkar,
Thanks for your answer, I managed to assemble the pulley.
I am now in the firmware calibration process and especially the autolevel. Which firmware do you use ? Marlin, Rich Cattel version, Repetier ? And what kind of auto level Gcode G29 ? G30 ? Moreover, if you could post your configuration.h file, it would be great ! :-)

I actually do not use any auto calibration anymore. I tried the Rich Cattel one, but it didn't work very good for me. Now I have simply calibrated the printer manually, and it has worked without any recalibration for months..

Nice build! Also interested in the BOM.

Thanks! Will send you the BOM.

Hey man I'm interested into building your printer
Can I get the bom?

Is there anyway you could take a look at the EFFECTOR stl? I think it might be corrupt because my slicer is having a really hard time with it. Even after multiple tries to repair it, I still have problems. Thanks in advance!

Hm, weird! I'm not at my CAD PC now but I will re-export it and upload it. I would though recommend using this version instead, it uses a 40mm fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1050490

Delta Effector for E3DV6 + 40mm Fan
by robkar

Can I get the BOM with links to the parts please? Super print !!

robkar,

What firmware are you running on this?

Thanks!

I using Marlin on this. I wanted it to be as cheap as possible, so I went with Ramps..

Thank you!

Referencing your BOM I made my own that takes advantage of the big 11.11 sale on AliExpress and two additional items from ebay. I made sure to select items that had good reviews and reputable sellers.

Shipping will be slow but I think this is a REALLY good deal considering all the discounts and $15 coupon on orders over $149.
I was able to get the total including shipping down to $333.17.

Here is the link to my BOM: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CFMgHrbVqBdj7WrJ8N7t4Yv-9YuDhW_oaV6w5TBRVeI/edit?usp=sharing

robkar, let me know if you want me to delete this and I will happily do so.

Hello,

Looks good! My printer is still performing REALLY well, and for 333USD it is hell of a deal. So I recommend you to go along and build it, you will have a lot of fun!

No, leave it there. I think I will upload my BOM anyway.. At first I liked for people to contact me and not just sending them off to AliExpress sellers I for some unclear reason selected. But hey, it worked for me :)

Looks Great. Could I get a copy of your BOM as well? Thank you in advanced.

Sure, i´ll send you a message.

Thank you. Hoping to have one (maybe two) built by the end of the year.

Nice! Let me know how it goes, I'm happy to help out if needed.

Hello, great looking printer! Could you please send me your detailed BOM? Thanks!

Will do.

Nov 5, 2015 - Modified Nov 5, 2015
robschwieb - in reply to robkar

Thank you! Currently waiting on the November 11th sale at AliExpress to order my parts. One question though, could I get away with using 600mm extrusions instead of 620mm? Looks like it would work. Oh, and do you happen to have any closeups of print quality that you've achieved?

Sure, 600mm extrusion will work just as fine!

Here is a single-perimeter thing I made recently: http://s8.postimg.org/pxcq6vc91/IMG_0063_1.jpg It has 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle. The material is PETG. I'd say the print quality is really good!

Hi.

Today I printed ARM_CARRIAGE and found small bug on it. (see https://yadi.sk/i/dZnoidkIkByFD )
You wrote that you use 2x4mm magnets = 8mm. And holes for magnets on the carriage are only 6mm. Why?

Also maybe stupid question, but how do you tighten a belts?

Nov 3, 2015 - Modified Nov 3, 2015
robkar - in reply to Dimon372

Hello,

Ah, sorry for that, but thanks for pointing it out. I actually used 3mm magnets for my first version, that's why. Forgot to update the model here! I have now uploaded two new versions of the arm carriage with holes for 3 or 4 mm magnets.The missing radius is also there!

Also, not a stupid question at all regarding the belt tension. I use this part to tension the belt: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81991
I have printed a lot of plastic on this printer, and haven't had to tension the belt since the first assembly. So for me this solution is adequate.

Let me know how your build goes!

Ultimaker Belt Tensioner v2
by slouce

Big Thanks :)

Great looking printer. I've printed most of the bits and I'm now going to start ordering some parts, looking at the extrusions and the parts I was wondering what slot size this was designed for? Is it 5 or 6mm slot width, measuring the parts it seems to be about 5.4 mm at the bottom of the chamfer.

Thank you! It is 20x20 mm extrusions, with 5mm slots (http://www.motedis.se/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/999991143_1.JPG). But I do not see any problems using 6mm slots either.. Let me know how your build comes along!

Thanks, extrusion ordered ( http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tubing-struts/8508489/ ) as I had to get 6m I'm going big, can get 1m high by about 330mm on edge.

Ah, nice! I am SO tempted to make my bigger as well.. But on the other hand I have got it to print great now, I don't wanna mess with that. Most amazed I am with the sound of the printer, it is so quiet! I do knot know if its due to luck with the rigid design, chinese motor quality or the driver settings, but I am happy. Keep me updated on your bigger build!

Hi I'm also int he process of preparing to build this printer, help would be appreciated! what for instance is counter sunk magnets? I'm going to try and print the parts in nylon witch is a challenge, but i have some experience with nylon printing and it is much stronger! anyway it sounds like you are prepared to help, thanks. i,ll be in contact!

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
robkar - in reply to ctkruger

See the comment below. This is another example of a countersunk magnet: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-Super-Strong-Round-Neodymium-Countersunk-Ring-Magnets-10mm-x-3mm-Hole-3mm-Rare-Earth-N50/32339649937.html

If you look at my designs, I also have a ball link effector and carriages, which is another option for the rod links. Magnets provide minimal backlash, but they CAN be pulled apart and cause problems.

Let me know how your nylon parts are coming along!

Nice build.
Could you specify what exact magnets did you use?
Because I found a lot of 10mm magnets with different height.
Maybe you can provide a links on lot thay you bought?

Hey.

I used these ones, bought locally in Sweden: http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Neodymmagnet/Pr311466000

In each "magnet hole" I first put one D10x4 magnet, then one D10x4 magnet with countersunk hole on top of that one.

However, I would recommend buying as strong magnets as you can find. As long as you use the same magnets in all holes, you can use whatever 10 mm magnets you like. They do not even need to be 4mm high, 5 or 6 mm would be even better (stronger).

Looks like an awesome printer, I just got into 3d printing and I am absorbing as much info I can. Can you please send me the BOL for your printer I would love to take a shot at building it. Thank you, Mickey

I am pretty sure I am going to build one. One question though: how problematic would it be to increase the size of the build surface to ... lets say 250mm? on first glance you just have to buy longer extrusions and longer carbon shafts? (and well obviously a larger bed)

Cool! I think you're correct, in order to increase bed diameter, you would need longer extrusions and rods. Maybe something like 9x300mm extrusions, 3x800mm extrusions and 250mm rods. Haven't calculated these lengths, but I think it is a good starting point :)

Hi Robkar, can you please send me the BOM? I want to build a Delta and yours looks awesome. Thank you!

Sure!

Beautiful machine!

Any chance you can make a 2525 version as well? For the linear motion I'm thinking of using some 'linear bearing 25-6725'. Do you think that will work?

Thanks!

No, Unfortunately I do not have the time to do such changes.. Regarding the bearing I have no experience of the, but they seem to be up for the task! (if you find the correct combo of bearing and extrusion i.e.)

Also, do you sell the 3d printed parts? I can't find a place were you can 3d print real cheap.

I might be able to help you out for the cost of filament, shipping and some of my time. And I can of course not give you the same support and guarantees as a company supplying printers can, but I am glad you want to build my printer, so if you want some printed parts just send me a PM so that we can work something out. I am located in Sweden, so depending on where you are shipping costs will vary..

Do you know how much of each 3d printed part you need?

Yes of, I'll add it to the instructions!

Yes of, I'll add it to the instructions!

Can I also have the BOM's? I'm planning to build one myself!

Do it! Mine is sitting next to me printing very nicely! I'll send you the BOM.

Can I get the BOM with links to the parts please? Looks like a great printer!

Thanks! I've sent you a message.

hellos very good project I would like to set up the same as you have a link you with all the parts for the manufacture of the delta?

Thanks! Sure, I've sent you a link. Let me know if you're really gonna build it, I am happy to help out!

I would like to see how you mounted the motors, you seem to have space for bearings there?

Aug 17, 2015 - Modified Aug 17, 2015
robkar - in reply to B0rax

Yes I have. When assembling I first put the bearings in place (it should be a tight fit), then I mounted the motor by pushing the shaft into the bearing. The idea when designing this was to have the motor shaft supported in order to avoid radial forces acting on the shaft, but to be honest I am not sure if it is really necessary. At least it is rigid now! The same corner design can of course be used without bearings as well..

What is the Build space on this?

I think it ends up at something like D180 x H270, a little bit depending on how you mount the bed.

phenomenal! work! I wil ABSOLUTELY build one, 2 if there is any chance for a 1515 remix. i have an openbeam mini kossel rail stock kit, but would love to use this as the parts kit for it! I also have optical distance sensors that would work great on this! i have several sizes, but the best for the 1515 is very small measuring 8mm in dia for the 1515, and 12 mm in dia for the 2020 version.
i am also interested in experimenting with the sharp distance sensor, its TINY and on a polou carrier. Pololu item #1134. Sharp distance sensor GP2y0D810z0f. if you remix in 1515, i will send you one for free!

Funny that you mention the sharp distance sensors, I actually bought them from polulu some time ago and tested them as Z-probe for autocalibration etc. Unfortunately they weren't accurate enough when I tested them.. Even the version with the shortest detection range was triggered around 50mm above the bed, and the measurements were not consistent. Instead I bought this: https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/ from thingiverse user dc42. This sensor board seems to work great! Next step for me is to modify my effector so that the board can be permanently attached. I might also add a blower fan to the effector, since I am mostly printing PLA right now.

Thanks man! I have a lot to do right now, but it shouldn't be a big deal to modify the parts to fit 1515 extrusions. Give a week or two! Or even better, buy new extrusions and begin with the 2020 version :)

lol, i have 3 kossels with 2020, one with 2040. i have the openbeam 1515 extrusion kit basically "lying around" because the parts were too hard to get from seattle automationz. thought the mini would look great with your treatment.
still looking at retrofitting your build to some of my bots. will post photos of what happens.
BTW, i ordered a couple of the Diff-IR boards to see if they suit my needs. ty for the tip.
Wish i could het some straight answers on auto leveling tech. i have servos and switches. they sucked, (but looked cool)
I have inductive and capacitive probes, not enough range, they drag on prints, and firmware configs are a bit confusing with them since the logic was originally built for contact stops and probes. i love the fsr ideas, but don't like a wiggly effector platform. that leaves bed mount fsrs, lidar and iridar. unless i missed something.
my cals are good, but coatings, plate swaps etc, cause things to change and prints to fail. looking for that silver bullet.
Anyway, awesome build.

Hey, sorry for late answer. I have a lot to do (work and moving to a new house), so not enough time for printing.
I really do not have the time to modify it for 1515 extrusions.. But please, let me know how your upgrade goes!

Yeah, the IR sensor works good. But to be honest, since I got my printer properly calibrated manually, I haven't used (or needed) a probe anymore. It just works right now!

What a beautiful build -- congratulations.
Could you go into some more detail how you routed and secured wires?
Did you bundle and sleeve wiring, friction fit it into the channel, and route them through the "delta" openings in the blocks?
Or something else?

Aug 5, 2015 - Modified Aug 6, 2015
robkar - in reply to evandepol

Thanks!
Do you mean the endstop wires? If so, for one endstop I did something like:
--- (1.) Soldered the two wires to the end stop (w. shrink tube) and mounted the endstops to the top corner piece
--- (2.) Twisted the cables and fed them through the hole in the top corner piece (before assembling the frame)
--- (3.) Assembled the frame (bottom corner brackets + top corner brackets + aluminum profiles)
--- (4.) Fed the wires through the bottom corner brackets when frame was assembled
--- (5.) Connected wires to Ramps board and hid the wires in the aluminum profile slot.

--- Note that I have holes in the printed corner pieces for the wires, and with a tweezer there is no problem. If you were talking about the hot end wires I just bundled all of them (hot end, thermistor, fan), put them in a sleeve together with bowden tube, and fed them to the electronics between the two lower aluminum profiles.

Well, that wasn't the best guide :) Let me know if something is unclear!

HI,

do you have the video of your printer printing? Sorry just wanted to make sure the one i build will be correct. Sorry about the inconvenience.

Hey,

I don't have a video right now, but I will make sure to record my next print! I'll get back to you.

Another one for the shopping list please.

Great job on this I've been prepping a similar kind of Kossel redesign as well. They're great printers.

Thanks! I tried to go for rigidity, simplicity and style. I agree with you on that delta style printers are in many ways outperforming other printers!

Could I get the link to your "shopping list"? I am very interested in attempting this build. Also what software are you using for the printer?

You have got a message, I do not want to do too much advertisement here for the specific resellers I've used, there are a lot of places offering the same stuff. But in the list you can get an idea of what parts I selected. If you search more carefully I am sure you can find cheaper alternatives, especially for aluminum extrusions and motors, which I ordered from Europe instead of China.

For the firmware I am using the latest stable version of Marlin, with the auto calibration feature included. Works good for me!

Can you post a more detailed BOM?

I have sent you a message with a link to my "shopping list"!

What would you say was the total build cost?

Not counting the filament and the parts I had at home (arduino, screws e.g.) I would say something like 350 USD. Aluminum extrusions, motors and linear rails are the most expensive parts, so these are worth searching carefully for. Also, I did not go for the cheapest alternatives in some cases (e.g. black extrusions instead of silver, fast shipping alternatives etc.)..

can i get your shopping list as well, i want to build one to go with my maker bots

You've got mail!

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