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Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]

by Intentional3D, published

Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports] by Intentional3D Jul 16, 2015

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Summary

This functional platform jack prints fully assembled without supports.

UPDATE [7/21/2015]: We have uploaded an updated platform jack with stronger scissor arms, improved axles to stop the arms from separating, and a larger gap between the screw and crossbeam to fix the fusing issue. We printed the updated version with a 0.3mm layer height and 15% infill in 4 hours.

UPDATE [7/22/2015]: For anyone having problems with the scissor arms fusing together we have uploaded a modified file with the tolerance increased from 0.5 to 0.65 mm (The axle tolerance is unchanged).

Instructions

This model prints fully assembled without supports. Our print time for the original model was 6 hours on a Replicator 2. We printed it with a 0.2 mm layer height, 15% infill, and a raft. The screw will be fused to the top crossbeam initially, but if you give it a clockwise twist it should separate and turn freely. Before attempting to twist the screw, inspect the print to make sure that none of the pieces are fused together.

The updated model was printed in 4 hours on a Replicator 2 with a 0.3mm layer height and 15% infill.

The jack extends 10.5 cm. The updated jack was able to support 20 pounds before failing (while fully extended).

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I wasn't expecting much, but I gave the 0.65mm tolerance a shot with a 1mm nozzle (0.7mm layer height) in abs. The printed turned out very good, but it wasn't functional; there was way too much fusing. I've posted some pictures in the Made section.

Printed almost perfectly the first time. No problem getting it free, no real fusing of parts at all. The only wart is caused by that extremely long "bridge" that has to occur on that horizontal axle near the top of the print. Every picture I've seen shows a lot of sag there. Obviously, standard supports can't be put there, but perhaps that axle could be redesigned to be more like an arch.

I don't use Solidworks - could you post a STEP file?

Comments deleted.

Worked on the first try with the Updated model (newer 0.5 tolerance, not the 0.65) sliced in Simplify3d with 0.3mm layers, 16% infill, 3 shells, PLA @ 200, Glass Heated Bed @ 60 with PVA on a stock Robo3d R1+, 4h 49m. Required a little attention with an xacto knife to separate some parts, about 10 minutes total - worked one corner at a time, slightly pulling the platforms apart to check for areas that were sticking before ever turning the screw.

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016

Sucessfully printed the 0.65 tolerance version at 0.3mm, 15% infill 3 shells on a MakerBot Mini with a SmartExtruder+ I broke the screw after printing and had to print another but that worked perfectly too. 8 hours of printing (9 with the new screw) Works perfectly. I printed with supports, by mistake, but it was easy to remove the material from inside the jack.

Anyone have problems getting the top of the screw to print? Mine fits perfectly until it gets to the the top of the screw, then it just seems to fall off and turn into a pile of string.

Try setting your slicer to make sure that the print time per layer is longer. I have mine set up for 15 seconds so the layer has a bit more time to cool.

Printed Flawlessly, Thanks, and Great Design!!

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016

Over 30 friggin hours after 3 prints on 3 different i3 dialed in printers this model needs friggin tuning and wider gaps, period. I should have read more of the ~200 comments it looks like this model, not 3dbenchy, should be the defacto standard of a "torture" test of a 3d printer, because if you can print one of these without the tips of the arms at the hinges snapping off....well, gold plate your printer and don't breath on it cause it's one in a million, LOL.

Are there possibly any plans to adjust this model with say, a 15-20% increase in hinge gaps, and maybe at the same time a small percentage of reinforcement on the ends of the hinges and other small areas involved in the motion?

All punchiness aside, if I didn't absolutely think this thing was amazing, I certainly wouldn't have already spent the ~30 hrs and $ to keep trying - it really is a thing of beauty to hold in your hand when finished and explain to a little boy how all moving parts it printed tiny slice layer by layer. My little one is going to be crushed this 3rd one just snapped too. I haven't yet had the heart to tell him. I just don't think I can tie up the printer and spend the $ on the filament and electricity and wear on the machine pushing 40+ hrs for this unless it gets some adjustment to increase my odds of success.

EDIT: Should have stated - this was 3 attempts on 2 different i3's at slow 35mm speed (and slower for edges), .3, 3 shells (1.2mm) 1.2mm top/bottom with 2 different brands of PLA (3 different colors) - so I think I mixed it up enough other than the resolution and at 10hrs at .3, I really did not want to have to do a full 24hr print for this (although now with 3 failures I guess maybe if I would have been guaranteed 1 success)....but no way 3x24hrs each which is what I have a feeling it would be to still have failures I just can't justify. I thought I read a while ago on the thing description that it had been successfully printed at .3? Is that the issue? Because I'm getting great layer adhesion like I said having used 3 diff colors, two Hatchbox and one eSun it aint the filament and the temps and model otherwise look perfect - no layer separation etc. that indicates a bad print - it just really does not have the strength built in to be printed vertically like it is making the layers vertical and the z-axis layer weakness I'm really surprised i guess that this many people ARE actually able to snap this thing open without it cracking. I can post pics later as well showing how great my prints look despite the failures so I could really use some advise. I see the author saying yes, print it vertically, but are all the successful prints really being printed in the default vertical orientation, or did they perhaps lay it flat to strengthen and flip the layers?

What infill are you printing at? 15% was the lowest we ever (successfully) tested, and some printers needed 30 or even 40%. If you're trying to print at 0.3mm, I would definitely lean towards a higher infill to make up for the weaker inter-layer bonding.

And yes, it should definitely be printed vertically! ;)

My infill was 25%. Like I said, other than the same exact spots cracking off from 2 different i3 printers and 3 different filaments, it just seems like those areas are a problem.. The good news is, I was at least able on the last one to glue on the ends for cosmetic only and at least show my little guy.

It's the end of the hinge arms,, the u shape breaks off at the dowel - same on all of them. I'll upload pics later they look absolutely beautiful otherwise. If I had layer separation or other under extrusion etc. I'd lean more towards that....but that's why I spun up on the other i3 printing 20c higher on totally different filament, just to rule out whether it was machine/user error. :)

I wonder how many others are just so elated to get the thing to crank open that they are just maybe silently living with those ends breaking off and just not reporting it here so you are aware. My last one seems to function pretty good minus the broken ends because I'm not really putting any weight on it so also perhaps some folks have them break off at time of initial opening too and just aren't even aware of it.

Hmm, thanks for the detailed symptom report! We've never had that part break on us, but we'll look into it. In the meantime, I'd suggest checking out the remixes to this part. Some people have pulled it apart (So it doesn't print fully assembled), which makes it slightly easier to print. Not sure if it will help with your issue, but fingers crossed!

Do you print this standing up or laying flat?
Thanks
Norm

Print it upright. It should be printed in the default orientation.

nice design, printed without supports, works well.
I would love the SolidWorks file if you have it.
It could really use a thicker top and bottom plate because they bend too easily around the slotted side.

Jul 1, 2016 - Modified Jul 1, 2016

I tried to print this on an M3D micro, with "Deep Lemon 3D Ink" (it was definitely PLA) and everything fused together creating an unusable rectangle, any help to get it to print correctly?

Just remembered, I shrank it to 1/4 of the original size, could this be my problem?

yes. you cant shrink it. the clearance between parts will only work at the scale it is designed for.

But it should work other wise on the M3D right? This looks pretty cool, and I'm just getting into printing.

Thanks, I had used the improved version on both my original prints too.

Same Printer, Nozzle, PLA and Cooling.
Differences 0.1mm layers and Slic3r for the software.
I recently purchased Simplify3D and thought I would try again.
Not sure I would go to 0.3mm might try 0.2mm.

Thanks for the information.

Oh and I used the "improved" file listed.

Make sure your orientation is such that the knob is facing up. I'd try .3 layer. I ran my PLA at 203F. and 17% infill.

I had to use a plier to break the knob loose, (clockwise). Good luck!

Could you also upload a picture of this great first time print?

I've just done it. It's really amazing that it prints assembled with no supports.

What were your setting and resolution?
Printed pretty quick.
Mine took over 12 hours to print.

I have a Flashforge Creator Pro. Printed on the Right side 0.4 mm nozzle using 1.75 PLA.
0.3mm layers with fan cooling on nozzle (important). Sliced using Simplify3D software.
It took about 5 hours to print.

Can't believe it is the filament, I have had great success with printing other things.
I am going to try again soon, going to slice with Simplify3d rather than Slic3r.
Good luck rtsandiego, let me know how it goes and your settings if you have success.

It came out amazing. First try too!

I think the design is nice but I wouldn't waste your time trying to print. I tried twice with a lot of issues. I have printed dozens of things without issue but this thing has multiple. Bridges require an almost perfect printer to complete, even with a well tuned printer I think it would fail. The bolt will print completely bonded to one of the main crossbars. 20% infill with .20 layers, & printed extremely slow , it still has more issues that it is worth. Some pieces printed with great quality, others were below poor quality and unacceptable. The design would be better printed separately and allowing us to assemble. There is another design that prints separately but requires metal hardware. A good design won't require extra purchases/hardware but at least that design is usable. Sorry for the poor review but this was a waste of 50 meters of material (2 separate prints).

It printed fine in PLA. This thing is amazing!

Jun 29, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016
rtsandiego - in reply to jwerry

Really? There's so many postings of successful prints. I'm going to try.

if you can't bridge, it's your filament. i can bridge across on problem first shot with cheap $10 Chinese quality PLA. no sag, perfect bridge. if the screw won't fit, you're not calibrated properly either. filament width calibration is fundamental.

that being said, it isn't without issue, keeping the inside sizzor bars in place while they build UP would help, they can just break being moved around by the extruder once they get higher.

while a great print requires no extra parts, a great useful Print should if it could benefit. if you want to stick it on display, print it in 100% plastic... if you want to use it for a Toy, it's going to break in 10 minutes of use. same goes for those shitty chip bag clips, put a damn spring on them and get over it.... they work 1000x better with a 0.05c metal spring in the design. i have 5 that don't close enough anymore in abs, pla, petg... add a spring and they'll work until you die.

Prints fine in ABS on a stock Wanhao i3.

I think there is a segment missing from the Solidworks file. Some parts fused together so I want to modify the tolerances. Could you please upload the fixed file?

Any chance I could ramp this up to 300% size? Would the Tolerance allow for this?

Yes, scaling works fine.

hi my ive printed it 3 times one this one worked somewhat well the bol did not buge so i need help with making it work

I used the higher tolerance model and it printed largely OK, but the fused shaft would not separate from the crossmember. Eventually twisted the knob off from the shaft. Why not perforate or otherwise weaken that connection?

THANK YOU so much for a fun to do print!!!! we are having so much fun with our 3d printer, We love it!! designing something like this takes alot of time, Thank You sooooo much for sharing a great project to make !!

Worked on my second attempt with PLA. Took awhile to gingerly open up and separate all the pieces. Cool model!

Can you scale it down and still make it work?

Can you scale it down and still make it work?

I think the file was corrupt mine got slanted half way through the print

Is a 0.8mm nozzle to coarse for this print?

Probably yeah.

just canceled my 2nd unsuccessful print .
both times when the bolt's tether is finished and and it starts to print the smooth part something happens and it shifts right.
when i inspected it , it was very loose.
any advice?

printed on Creator Pro . Pla . 210 /60 deg , 0.3 lh .

You should print with a 0.2mm layer height. If you are using a flashforge make sure you have some kind of active cooling. A fan pointed at your printer works fine.

Printed on UP! Mini with standard settings, however with fan towards nozzle, in order to allow the wide overhangs.
Due to thermal stress, there are cracks in the plates and two joints fused (left + right of knob).
Still I could sparate all parts easily and move the plate up.
5.5 hrs, 73 grams of ABS

Feb 3, 2016 - Modified Feb 3, 2016

1st print failed. Used 290 microns on a Zortrax M200. The screw design needs to be reviewed. Will try with a finer resolution and maybe print a smaller one to test. 81 grams of ABS wasted. But oh well. Great design

Comments deleted.

Mine printed beautifully, but when I tried to get it open a couple of the folding pieces broke. The screw was also fused. I printed at 0.2mm thickness and 15% infill, the extruder was around 230 C. For those that it went successfully, what were your settings?

the end of the joint/holes broke for me, it's a bit thin there for FDM... it's a hit or miss i guess. which sucks on a 5+hour print.

Nice design, worked perfectly. I have made two so far!

A big part of me just died. I printed at 0.25 mm layer thickness and 15 % infill, and after about 5 hours on my Replicator 2, I had my heart broken (just like the piece). The screw appears to be totally fused. The next bad move was to use brute force (sometimes you can't figure how much force you need to get a printed part moving).

Once I've nursed my heart, I'll be back again to print this!

Comments deleted.

Dude, watch your mouth on this site.

Oh come on - say printer, head, filament. My first attempt utterly failed. Second with simplify3d was perfect.

Didn't work for me at all.

Makerfarm 8" i3v
0.40 e3d v6

The whole thing was too tight and would not budge no matter what. Hot water... Oven... knife... Couldn't get it to free. And yes, the printer is very well calibrated.

This was with Slic£r at 0.20 - I will try again with Simplify3D which i have just bought and seems to behave much better.

Reprinted with Simplify 3D and was perfect! It just opened after removing from bed. Very pleased.

Glad to hear it!

I want to print a really tiny one, and a really large one!
Thanks, this is awesome!!! :)

Thank you for this design

I Made One

https://youtu.be/wq3tXvPX7cA

Is it better to print upright, or on it's side? It loads initially vertical with the screw on top.

Print upright.

Thank you for this design. Here a little time laps, have fun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aozfJJFBcUE

so cool! have to make one for my rc car. Do you know how meany inches wide it is?

I print this but I cant use it
all part was together how shoda i do ?
http://noka3dprinter.ir/
http://gsnoka.com/

I printed this on my Replicator 2. This has been the most impressive piece that I have ever printed. Came fully functional straight off of the print bed. Peoples mouths always drop open when I tell them that there was no assembly required at all for this print. This is by far my favorite print of the year. Major props to @Intentional3D for this one.

Perfect print on my Rostock Max.
Super neat design !

Dec 26, 2015 - Modified Dec 26, 2015
sparkdaddychad - in reply to SVp

Sorry to thread jack, how do you like your Rostock Max? I have the Orion Delta. I have thought about upgrading to the big boy at some point.

Actually, I am very happy with it, though I cannot compare it to others.
But when I read how much trouble people seem to have with calibration and bed adhesion, I can praise myself lucky.
It was calibrated ONCE after I finished building it, and since then it has worked flawlessly.
In throw the thing in and out of my car every few weeks, switch it on, and it does what it's supposed to do.
I would definitely buy it again.

BUT, there is a but.
At the time I bought it (and I sincerely hope that SeemeCNC changed that), it was equipped with an extremely (!) low quality power supply that died on me a few weeks ago.
When the heated bed was switched on, the whole machine switched off or did a reset.
The manufacturer acknowledged this problem and immediately offered to replace it.
But since I live in Belgium, customs costs were just too high to swap out a shitty psu with one of the same abysmal quality.
So I refused to accept it.
They refused to pay through Paypal, even partly, for a good quality psu that I could deliver myself, since I am a computer retailer and technician, and have these in stock at wholesale price ...
So for the time being, I replaced it at my own expense, and the matter is pending.

The CNC guys are quality retailers. I'm sure that this has caught their attention, if not already taken care of. If not, I will surely ask them before ordering the Rostock.

Thanks for the reply!

It printed very well for me. Had one stuck part that took me a couple of minutes to figure out but once it was freed the jack opened right up. Too cool.

My make http://www.thingiverse.com/make:177764
Cons:

-Very difficult to separate the parts for the first time. You will need: lubricant and knife.
-Poor gravity center, I think that you can improve this with other models. For example, I think that it is more stronger and balanced http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:711725

Pro:
-To easy to do.
-Very good thinking by designer.

Lab Jack
by fma
Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]
by Mafo

I always have an issue with one corner lifting off the bed. Anyone have any tips?

JvdP - in reply to cye604

I've tried both raft and a brim attached to the print, but I also have one corner lifting off the bed. Not even using ABS but PLA. I suppose I need to get better bed adhesion...

Check what your setting is for air gap between the print and the raft. Also, if you have a heated bed, I have found that the hair spray technique works wonders for PLA. Best of luck!

Are you printing in ABS or PLA?

Dec 10, 2015 - Modified Dec 10, 2015

This was awesome to make. I put 60% fill in mine. Took like 11-12 hours to do, but it is really durable as far plastic go.

Going to try this on a markforged one!

Just printed it, and as far as i can see the parts are not fused together.

Except the screw :(

Does anyone have tips to loosen it?

Would be a shame such a long print to go to waste :(

A shame that there is not STL model without the screw, so we can print thr screw on it's own.

p.s. This a huge demo to what a 3d printer is capable of :)

Any idea why my printer doesn't allow me to print without supports? I'm trying it now using "SMART" supports as supposedly they don't touch, but am nervous about what's going on inside the assembly.

Please make a version without the screw in it the head of it snapped. I would be fine with printing it separately.

Nov 19, 2015 - Modified Nov 19, 2015

Just finished the "updated" 7-22-15 STL print. I used .25mm layer height, 2 walls, and 80% hexagon fill. Took 6.5 hours. Was very gentle loosening it up a bit by hand before turning the screw. Make sure your retraction is under control and that your printer is well-calibrated.

Pretty amazing print, but if your printer isn't tuned up, it's gonna be a heartbreaker. ;)

The head off the screw broke off what do i do?

i have been printing smaller versions , no success at .7 or less - also, someone mentioned printing on the flat.. no worky .. the bolt cant bridge that distance (unless u print seperately, then u would want a model with out the bolt but that is not here), if u build bridge support, thats no good , then u have more fusion inside ...

it does print faster on th eflat though ...

took 5.5 hrs with .275lh and 60 pspeed . i was able to break awy fusing using the'updated' version but broke the knob, not sure if i went ccw instead of cw.. -- i guessi need the .65 version , would like to scale down to see a success in shorter order ..

My printer is really slow. Estimated time: 73 hours

I got a fast and amazing printer for $250, its called the XYZ Da Vinci Jr

i have the same printer

I have that printer too and it's really remarkable especially for the price!

That is truly ridiculous. Would suck if it failed at hour 72

damn dude what printer do u have?

The M3D its all I could afford and at $350 I'd rather have a slow printer than no printer.

That's a good point. Does it print well at least? I only have a school one I gave access to, so just curious

Yeah it prints quite good quality as far as I'm concerned and although its slow it is very reliable. I can run any print small enough to fit in its 11*11mm space and know it will work.

Oct 22, 2015 - Modified Oct 22, 2015

printe at 0.2mm and 10% fill,the printed modle is very good and can work easily.
printed by MakerPi 3d printer

Is it best to print it standing up in length or to lay the large surface flat. I tried printing in length and it went stringy about half way through. printed at 0.3 and 15% fill no supports. Any advice would be appreciated.

I've printed this using the updated file in the zip with the makerbot mini using PLA plastic. The only problem I had was when I went to spin the screw the plastic knob broke off. I replaced the 15% fill screw and knob with a 100% fill knob and screw. It works perfect now. I also did notice while printing the 100% fill knob near the end of the print the makerbot mini would wobble slightly making the threads on the inside of the screw where the knob and the screw meat be un alighted so I had to sand the threads on the knob down to fit it into the receiving hole. I hope this was helpful.

Excellent work! Had to make another screw assembly as the original broke off, but nevertheless
an amazing design which I put to proper use in my hobby workshop.

I have the same machine, and the same settings but my print took near 8 hours, or double the print time. And EVERYTHING was fused together. I broke it apart finally and I still couldn't get all the parts moving freely. Any pointers? Any default setting changes?

Amazing job and design. Congratulations!!!

This is my next print. I honestly cannot wait for the current filament spool to finish so I can get this started!.

I have only had my printer for a little over a week now and I have learned a lot so far. I have a heated bed and I am running it hot. I keep the temp at 110c (initially set up for ABS out of the box, however I typically print with PLA). I have not come across any issues with having my bed that hot for PLA, but can there be issues? I have Kapton tape, but honestly like using the green frog tape. I have had some great prints come off the printer so far, but I have not attempted anything this complex yet. I recently tried a gear bearing, which came out looking awesome, but all the small gears were fused to the outset gear/ring. I also print at a 210c at the nozzle, which my understanding is that this is high for PLA as well (more in the range for ABS).

My question is, will I have issues trying to print this with my temps set that high while using PLA? Also, I want to get some clear filament, any recommendations on brand?

I printed a couple of times with a wood fiber PLA and those items look nice.

for pla you want the bed temp around 50-60 NOT 110.
210 is fine for pla.
reprapper tech is the best filament I've used and I've used a LOT of different makes.

Printed in abs on Makerbot Replicator 2X. Work great. I am using in my Engineering class for mechanical advantage problems. Could you tell me what software you design the product? We use Autodesk Inventor.
Well Done.

We used Solidworks.

How big was it completely?

tried printing the revised version on a printrbot simple metal. .3mm layer height, 15% infill. printed in just under 3 hours. separated all the parts i could before opening. the screw turned with a little effort but the scissor legs still stuck together and eventually broke before coming loose. :(

Comments deleted.

I made one, see "made"
PLA 15% with raft
Prusai3rework
As i was afraid to break knob, I made an aperture on the bottom face to be able to rotate axis using pliers. After that it's moving well. :-)
Knob is ok.
See my picture for the aperture.

manually added supports to the center beams as my 1st print could not make the distance without too much sag. I was able to slid a thin tool in and break away supports. works great !

flashforge Creator X, simplify 3d, petg filament, heat 225\80
15% fill, 3 shells,

I need one at 60% printable in ABS, so the tolerance should be more.. any thoughts?

Just made it on an Ultimaker2. Superb! Use a small screwdriver to GENTLY separate the parts so they move, one or two of them may be joined to start with. Do NOT force the thread, make sure everything is free and separate first before turning, PATIENCE. A small amount of lubricant on the thread helps once things get moving.
An impressive design, one of the finest demonstrations of 3D printing I have seen.

What settings did you use? I also have an Ultimaker 2, but my 2 attempts at 0.3 layer height have come out really fused. Any pointers would be appreciated. :)

I used 0.16 layer height, I think 0.3 is much too wide for the UM2, would give really rough prints.
Ht 0.16mm, base and walls 0.8mm, fill 20%. Black PLA on standard settings, 210C and 60C bed.

One of the scissor arms had some fusion points, hence the gentle prising apart. Work the screw a bit, find which bit is sticking and try to crack the fused bits with a tiny screwdriver. The screw thread was perfect, as were all the pivot joints. I see to remember it was the left hand side, ( looking from the screw head ) that was stuck. If you gently pull the jack apart by its top and bottom you will see which part is sticking.

I think you are right about the 0.3. And being able to open up the plates really helps too.

Thanks very much! :)

Comments deleted.

I think it would be very helpful for all of us who have printed this, and had the knob twist off, if you could make a hexagonal bore,
clear through the threaded part, so we could put an allen wrench in there, to break this part loose. I made a second one, thinking
that if I corrected the drawing to print a higher density, it would hold up to breaking loose, but it also twisted off.
If I knew how to work with .STL drawings, I would show you what I mean.
This is one of the best things I have seen on here, all the same! Thanks.

What an AMAZING design! Well done!

Made one! Robo 3D R1...FLAWLESS..oh, in the lowest quality and took 4 hours and 45 min? about? roughly? yeah, somewhere there..congrats on the design...I hope you expand on the technique and apply many, many times over...From Miami, DALE!!!

Well Done! Only had to print it once! When I have time I'm going to print it as large as possible in my Z18!

Amazing design! Congratulations!!

Fantastic! Great job!! Thanks for sharing.

Screw basically completely welded itself to the top crossbeam. Really cool design and all but had to break the thing open to get to the fused area. Thanks for uploading the screw by itself though so at least a bit of superglue and I'll have a working model. Printed the 0,65 mm tolerance model with PLA on Printrbot simple metal at 200 micron and 15% infill, took about 7.5 hours.

Hi ! Do you mind sharing your gcode file?

I tried printing a couple times and haven't had problems with the screw, but some of the legs got fused in a way I couldn't repair.

would you mind sharing your "print speed". I have a PB simple metal as well. Hear shortly i'm doing a reprint because i have some slight shifting on the "x-axis". I am using the same settings as instructed but i think my speed is too high. Also, if you don't mind would you share what software you use to print. I'm still a baby so i'm still using Cura as my platform for my prints.

I'm using Repetier Host with with Slic3r engine. Printed at 40 mm/s for the perimeters and 60 mm/s for bridges and infill. Not sure if there are better speeds to print this at but haven't had any issues with other parts I've printed at these speeds.

Awesome job! I printed mine in Transparent Green Polar PLA on my Polar 3D printer... it worked flawlessly!!!

Great design ! Printed one, see my makes. Will definitely do another one, with increased scale.

This is brilliant! Easily one of the most impressive models I've printed. Good job!

I printed 'Platform_Jack_0.65mm_tolerance.STL', with 15% Infill and 2 Shells, at 150 Microns

Awesome model!

I have printed the version with max tolerance @ 200microns/10% in my BEETHEFIRST. About 8h print.

Fully functional.

ABS on our Replicator 2X using a raft and the suggested 15% infil on the design with 0.65mm tolerance... was skeptical it'd work but was pleasantly surprised. Really cool design to show off to folks who don't realize some of the complex designs that can be accomplished with a single printed object.

Just started printing a 2nd...

That's 36 metres of PLA I'm not getting back

Great design and was really excited to print. However after 7 hours of printing, using the 0.65mm tolerance the screw fused at the bottom (like some other's mentioned) so had to break that. Then tried to manually extend but the scissor beams broke at the joints.

Can't say I'm not disappointed but thanks for the concept.

Printed on Prusa i3 Hephestos - 15% fill, 0.2mm layer @ 210°c with PLA on a raft (no support)

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Any chance of adding an allen key socket in the base of the screw or a slot for a screwdriver to make breaking the screw a little easier? I managed to break mine while trying to loosen it.

Can you give the dimensions for the screw? (thread, length, etc) My screw head broke off. Great design btw.

Even mine broke . How did u fix it? Did u print the other set of screws?

Very impressed. Printed on a ROBO 3D R1 using the 0.65 tolerance and it works fine. Took my printer a little over seven hours to do the print. Can't believe how well it works.

The screw on 0.65mm tolerance fused with its case near the knob. in the end I wasted 74g and had to broke the screw in order to make this expand/retractable

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How can this be printed without support? At height 66.1 mm the 3 left axles (as pictured) start forming practically in mid air (this is printed sideways, so they're actually printed around the top. The top and bottom axles (again, as pictured) are attached on the sides, but this still requires a 60mm+ bridge (my printed would never succeed in this), the middle axle extends from the center to both sides, for about 25mm.

Note: I just sliced and looked at the layers. Again, how can this be printed without support?

I'm pretty sure it's voodoo magic. But in all honesty, a well calibrated printer should be able to handle a 60mm bridge with minimal droops. I printed it last night, but was not very careful with it at first and broke the knob off. Aside from that, everything else came out perfect. Give it a try, maybe your printer will surprise you.

This the best thing on here i have seen to date...!!! Having a go at it now on my Sunhokey Prusa i3. Great work!

what material did you use to print with

We printed ours in PLA.

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do you think it could be printed in abs

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I'm very impressed about this great design and printing (and it remembers me to my earlyier days in the chemical lab too...). Few people, who don't own a 3D printer will believe that's possible ! I'll try soon, to print it on my Ultimaker II and report the result. Congratulations to this great thing.

Jul 26, 2015 - Modified Jul 26, 2015

I think that this is a really brilliant design and the absolute essence of what 3D printing is all about. Frankly I didn't think that my printer (Robox) could handle printing it, but I went ahead anyway. Unfortunately I broke some parts while trying to prize everything apart - the screw head broke off as others have found out. Nevertheless I would say that I was 90% there. I used ABS which I think is probably not the right material as there was a little warping at the base. The peg did not print perfectly round which is probably why the other parts resisted my attempts to prize them apart. Producing the bars at the top was fascinating to watch as it literally printed a long section in mid-air - even though the ends were anchored. I printed at 30% as 15% looked far too empty. I think a different printer and filament could produce a better result, or maybe I need to try different settings, so I will be trying again.

I printed one on a Robox. I printed in PLA on normal quality at 15%.

You should be able to twist the screw and shear the layer so that the screw turns and then glue the screw head back on.

Very impressive model and a great print. I'll add this to my collection sitting on my desk at work.

and yeah... I will prepare the strong fan at layer 221 (no raft with 0.3 layer hight) for the long bridge :D

printing right now at 0.3 layer 100%fill... nothing fuset together so far. Will se the results

I printed this, and it was defect,
the srew fas not completed build, all part ar glue together,
i take this in the trash....

pleas writ in the instruction, how to build this, programm, layers, speed, .....

Is there a possibility that you can upload a new screw for me? Mine broke off during my efforts to make it work (it was fused together a bit). I tried to model one myself, but inventor just would give me the right threat (for what I messured).
If you could upload a new one for me, that would be great!

Very clever, which software to model?

Really amazing that you designed it in such a way that it can be made in one print

genius design, enjoy everybody.

Thought about making a version where the knob is "nut-shaped" in order to use a handheld drill with a socket to raise/lower?

ukcat - in reply to

Uh, so it's much easier/faster to jack it up & down than using your fingers on a wheel.

Jul 25, 2015 - Modified Jul 25, 2015
aquaculture01 - in reply to ukcat

Ok, how large is this thing going to be and what might you use it for....or is this just an idea for fun. I had suggested to someone else to use a small stepper motor that is coupled to the lead screw with a remote interface. A drill will probably end up destroying a 4-6 hour print job. That would be a neat little project me thinks.

ukcat - in reply to

Geez, all of the above......you can set a drill to a pretty low torque/speed, if you want. Have a nice day.

Geez? Lol, have a good time with your drill and little plastic scissor. It makes tons of sense all of the sudden, speed and ease. You should make a YouTube video for our viewing pleasure.

Jul 26, 2015 - Modified Jul 26, 2015
ukcat - in reply to

I'm not trying to explain rocket science here and you seem to be going out of your way to discount a question that wasn't even posed to you in the first place. Even a small, cordless screwdriver would work, if so desired. Buh bye....

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Has any one tried scaling the entire assembly up to make it bigger? and if so what was the success?
Im hoping to use it to raise and lower a syringe pump

We are currently running a print in max size on a Makerbot 5th Gen. We will let you know how it goes.

Wrong design/application. A simple screw with solid base and nut assembly would be a bit more sensible with a cleaner more compact design. Fewer moving parts for a stronger device that you could simply use a stepper motor/ thread pitch combination that would ultimately be more precice.

Doesn't this have very long overhangs? My printer doesn't have a fan yet so can't do long overhangs.

Yes, it has two 65mm overhangs and six 25mm overhangs.

Very nice design, my first print didn't work that well though because my first layer is a bit squished to improve adhesion so all parts touching the built plate were stuck together, really wish slic3r had some way to compensate for that, considering trying again with the first layer not being different from the rest but I'm worried about adhesion.

Try to change your first layer width.
Print Settings>Advanced>Extrusion Width>First Layer:set to 0 default 200%

Which material do you use, and do you have a Heated PrintBed?

PLA, and yes.

What do you use on the HPB to make prints stick?
I use a light covering of glue from a cheap glue-stick.
(My HPB is a thick aluminium slab with a plate of hardened glass on top)
Haven't had a single problem with non-stick prints yet.
(I heat the bed to 60C for PLA)

The gaps between the parts touching the plate... I used a knife to open the gaps after the printjob.

I didn't have much luck glue stick. The first print went well, but overtime, buildup from previous prints was too much to handle.
I prefer hairspray for PLA.

70 degree bed + AquaNet "Extra Super Hold". I put a heavy spray (5 second mist) on the bed before letting it heat up -- this covers the missing hairspray from the previous print. Then a very light mist once it finishes heating up. The 70 degrees evaporates the water and keeps it tacky. Then don't try to remove the prints until it is completely cold. You can usually just snap them off the bed, if not the upside down canned air trick works well (Don't get this in your eyes: it will cause frostbite).

And the best part is AquaNet is water soluble, so it just rinses off with a wet sponge or in the sink.

Some PVAc wood glue mixed with water works well for me, and yeah if I knew about that issue I could probably have gotten it to work first time, I just turned the knob until it snapped off, after that I got the parts apart using my exacto and some pulling and prying, screwed the knob onto the screw part.

Did you try printing our latest version with 0.65mm tolerance? Printing with a raft might also improve adhesion.

Yeah I printed the later version, I can get really good adhesion no problem but it usually involves squishing the first layer a bit which makes small gaps turn into solid bits, I'll have to find some balance point here between adhesion and over-squish.

You know that every other serious creator here on Thingiverse now hates you for pushing everyone's expectations skyhigh... ;-)

I was joking...

That's a pretty good compliment. :)

Finally, someone who gets it! ;-)

fantastic work

Feature this!! Way to go!!!

Really awsome that you've managed to get it printed in 1 piece!

This is hands down the most impressive thing i've seen on thingiverse. Also a lab jack like this, is one of the first things i wanted to print on my 3d printer. I haven't made one yet though. Definitely making this one. With it printing as one piece with no supports, I have no excuse. Simply amazing! You have officially blown my mind!

Very nice platform indeed!

I have no idea what to use this for but I HAVE to print it.

I've printed this twice now and run into the same problem both times. Can you separate the screw from the model, it keeps breaking. Other than that, the rest of it prints and works great.

What are your print settings? Make sure that you print it with a 0.2mm layer height.

Jul 17, 2015 - Modified Jul 17, 2015
tracker797 - in reply to Daniel_W

The first print was .2mm layer height and 15% infill (like the instructions said) with raft. The knob just snapped off in my hand so on the second print I've bumped it up to 35% infill with the same problem. When I took both apart, the screw was fused in place at the jack connection end with the knob. Part seems to be the problem is the prism on the screw is fused to the joint, where in you picture it is not.

It was designed to be fused initially and separate when twisted but it seems that it is prone to fusing permanently. We will upload an updated model soon to address the fusing issues.

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how have only 80 people downloaded it, this deserves more

More than likely requires print settings that most are not able to comprehend with their particular style media and printer for it to print successfully from what I have been reading. First layer/bed level, media/temps, extrusion rates/printer speed, room temperature or enclosure temps along with print bed temps, infill, how well you know and use your printer are all extremely essential for success. Keep playing/ keep learning and have fun first and foremost!

lo probare pero creo q es difícil que salga así nada mas de una vez espero funcione esta genial me gusto

This is really cool, it needs to be featured:)

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