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Transport screw workaround for wade extruder

by elk, published

Transport screw workaround for wade extruder by elk Jun 13, 2011

Description

I had some difficulties to get the wade screw ready properly. I tried the tap-method but was not successful so I decided to try the teeth version. This "thing" will show a method to get a desired amount of teeth into the bolt and how to divide the surface of this screw into exactly same sized teeth.

You will find all about the wade extruder here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder

...and here on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794

Can actually also be used on other similar extruder designs.

Recent Comments

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That depends on your extruder. You have to measure the needed lenght for your kind of extruder aswell as the exact position for the teeth to be cut at... you might want to check also my newer design of making hobbed bolts here: thingiverse.com/thing:23717
May I ask how long is the hobbed bolt,plz?

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Instructions

Disc:

  1. Print the PDF file for 16 divisions (this number works fine for me...)
  2. Glue onto thick piece of cardboard
  3. Cut disc out and make centric hole with Ø 8mm

Wade Screw (M8 screw or piece of threaded rod can be used):

  1. Take your screw and mark the position where theets are desired on the screw
  2. Screw the disc you made on one end and secure with nut
  3. Mount into your drill press
  4. Fix your dremel onto the table of the drill press

this is a bit tricky.. I did it by clamping it to some support jigs. I leave the table of the drill press lose (not screwed in position) hanging on lowest level. like this I can centre the dremel once on my wade-screw and each time I pull the table to the screw it will hit the same position.

  1. Fix a wire on the drill press to point to one of the divisions on your disc (pay attention that it is not loose!)
  2. Start the dremel and pull table to the screw. Move drill chuck up and down a bit to get the teeth all over the desired area
  3. After first cut, push table off the screw and turn (by hand) the drill chuck until it lines up with the next division
  4. Repeat step 6 & 7 until you have cut all teeth.

Please mind: This screw design need well tightened nuts because it tries to unscrew itself out of the extruder. Use two nuts or a locknut to fix it in your extruder.

May I ask how long is the hobbed bolt,plz?
elk - in reply to smnh58
That depends on your extruder. You have to measure the needed lenght for your kind of extruder aswell as the exact position for the teeth to be cut at... you might want to check also my newer design of making hobbed bolts here: thingiverse.com/thing:23717
The little bolt hobbit
by elk
This works really well - is quite noticeably "grippier" to the touch than hobbing with a tap. Very clever set-up with the drill press as well.
This right here is very nice documentation! I try to favor the right/proper method over the easy/cheap approach. These teeth definitely got "moar NOM" going than those made by a file. Great stuff for us noobs! Thanks!
Welcome! I am a noob too, but sometimes noob with idea ;)
Smart setup. I tried doing this by hand and eye measurement, and the result was quite terrible.
What did not go right with the threading method? I would expect you get more or less the same studs like you have now.

PS typo: clambing =
&
gt; clamping (it to some support jigs...)
Hi Jelle, the threading method gave me not a clean, concentric grove with teeth. I have one working that someone else made for me and this one works great but I was not able to produce one by myself.

Therefore I started to work on this method... worked great for me so far - was much easier to build (the result above was first attempt).

By the way - thx for typo, English is not my mother tongue as you probably guessed... ;)
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