# Fidget Star

## by mathgrrl, published Jul 17, 2015

Fidget Star by mathgrrl Jul 17, 2015

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# Summary

Open, close, repeat. One way it's a box and the other way it's a star. Then a box. Then a star. Repeat the repeat.

This hinged print-in-place model is a remix of the Fidget Cube. It 3D prints fully assembled, in one piece, folded up! A snub version is also included for those who like the old school fidget.

For the design geeks: Thanks to Greg Knapp, who used Blender to fold up the original Fidget Cube model and print it as a closed cube. His YouTube video inspired me to do the same thing in OpenSCAD code so that the Fidget Cube could be printed as a closed cube. The remix gave me the opportunity to make the snub side of the fidget a more interesting star shape.

For the math geeks: The "star" is a stellated rhombic dodecahedron, and this model makes up half of a Yoshimoto cube.

UPDATE: @David_Mussaffi made a great video of a Fidget Star 3D printing in the closed position, check it out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGq2zIDUaYg

# Instructions

File descriptions:

• fidget_star_standing_15_48.stl and fidget_snub_standing_15_48.stl are medium-sized models that print standing up, unfolded. One is a stellated rhombic dodecahedron on the fun side, and the other is a cube with corners cut down.

• fidget_star_closed_15_48.stl and fidget_snub_closed_15_48.stl are like the above, but print closed up.

• fidget_star_standing_30_2_50.stl is a larger model with 30mm cubes, so a folded height of about 60mm and a standing height of about 120mm. It takes about 4-5 hours to print.

If you choose one of the "closed" designs then it will print folded up, with the cube side out. After printing you'll be able to open it up and see the star. If the closed version doesn't work on your printer, then try the "standing" assembly instead, which prints while folded open. If you need to make other adjustments to size or clearances, try the Customizer version.

If you want to print this model larger or smaller, then don't just scale up or down the model as a whole. Instead, use the Cusomizer to change the cube height, but preserve the hinge size.

I've found that a hinge clearance of .48 is optimal for MakerBot Replicator 3D printers. Other printers may need more or less hinge clearance. If your hinges are fused together, first make sure that you've turned supports OFF. After that you might try adjusting hinge clearance.

After printing, horizontal hinges will sometimes have some sag underneath; clipping this off before attempting to open the model will help increase your chances of success.

# Challenge!

### 1 design per week, winner take all

Thanks to atartanian for challenging me to get back on track and post a design a week. Speaking of tracks, check out his entry for this week: Cutomizable Flexible Toy Train Tracks. Let us know what you think in the comments!

http://mathgrrl.com/hacktastic/2015/07/week-1-battle-entry-fidget-star-vs-flexible-train-tracks/

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Does the large upright version need supports to print correctly ?
Thanks !!

Printed this tonight with MakerGeeks Crystal PLA. it's a pretty brittle PLA, and I figured it would fail instantly upon snapping the supports. However, it printed fine, it works great, and it's a lot of fun! I'm going to try the bigger one ... and maybe some of the variants too!

No matter what I try, one of the hinges does not work :(

I printed this and it turned out great! but after 2 days the hinges came loose and the parts of the hinge came apart. Is there any way to fix that problem?

Any chance of getting the file for the big one closed or lying down? I've tried twice and it just keeps falling over. Great design though, it's tons of fun with the small ones. I've given a few away to kids at a local school and they've loved them.

raeliean - in reply to Jaybk26

Try the closed one, it works great.

Jaybk26 - in reply to raeliean

That one did work, but I want the bigger size and she said to not just increase the size. Maybe I'll try it anyway. thanks.

raeliean - in reply to Jaybk26

That's right, there's a button at the top of this page that says "open in customizer" where you can change the size, amongst other things, then you'll get the proper size that will print good.

idid 5% infill no sport and it printed fine it slowly goes up so it prints over hangs.

Jan 11, 2017 - Modified Jan 11, 2017

which file should i download????? the closed one or the one that's standing up

Ohkayy... So none of this requires support? Really?

Ohkayy... So none of this requires support? Really?

this design i recognise form an origami piece i have made before if you make 2 then one in star form can fit inside the one in cube form

this design i recognise form an origami piece i have made before if you make 2 then one in star form can fit inside the one in cube form

this design i recognise form an origami piece i have made before if you make 2 then one in star form can fit inside the one in cube form

Does it work if you scale it down? Also what percent of infill did you use?

Has anyone had success printing one of these on a Robo 3D R1+? I'm worried it might be a waste of filament to even try. I did see one of these at Microcenter that they had printed out with their 3D printer display. Very cool!

mithander - in reply to mithander

The answer is no. No it does not print well on a Robo. Although I'm not sure if this is due to the printer's capabilities or my own ignorance of optimal settings. The only hinges that work well for me are the ones that printed on the top of the closed model. The ones on the sides came out either kind of rough (if perpendicular to printer bed) or completely blobby and unusable (if parallel to printer bed). In the bottom ~10 layers of the cubes that sit on top in the closed model, you can see the strands of filament all blobbed up instead of laying down in nice neat layers. It was a nice quick print so I'll probably keep trying but would love to hear any tips on what might have gone wrong. I'm using PLA with the medium quality preset (0.2 mm layer height and I think 15 or 25% infill).

I would love to see a version of this I could print separated and then use 1.75mm filament to assemble like this version.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:253405

Non-Print'n'Place Fidget Cube

Would this be better to print in ABS or PLA? Will PLA even work?

mathgrrl - in reply to dj505

All mine were done in PLA. I tried ABS once and it didn't seem to work - could have been the printer, or it could have been the ABS. There is a bit of magic/luck in getting the tolerances just right for your machine, fan setup, filament, day of the week, etc. These were tested primarily on a Replicator 2 with PLA filament. I think transparent worked the best in terms of having reliable hinges. I did get the largest ones to print successfully on a 5th gen Replicator.

Mar 7, 2016 - Modified Mar 7, 2016
dj505 - in reply to mathgrrl

Thanks! For some reason, no matter how large I make the space between the cubes, they just fuse together... Hinges are fine though. I guess I'll see after the current print is done. If I need to, I'll just pry it apart with a flathead screwdriver or something.

mathgrrl - in reply to dj505

Okay here's a desperate option - try printing a bunch of them at once. Then the top layer of the cubes can have a little longer to cool and set before the bottom layer of the next cubes goes on. Or maybe try increasing your fan settings.

Glad the hinges are working, though. Usually that's the problem :)

newbpilot - in reply to mathgrrl

Ive printed two of these now- both in PLA. Fun stuff! There is a little bit of support that holds the center blocks together. how do you clean it up? it can be peeled off for the most part, but i assume sanding is the only way to truly get it clean. Thoughts?

dj505 - in reply to mathgrrl

I'll try printing a few at once then :P The fan's already at 100% so that won't really help much.

I don't see how this can print without supports (either the "standing" or the "closed" versions) - there's always two pieces of several hinges that are completely detached and airborne.

mathgrrl - in reply to UXO

yeah i know it's crazy but it works if you get the clearances right. Definitely need NO supports though - if you had supports on then that support would fill in those gaps and fuse the model together. Once you figure out how to get it working on your machine, and how best to clean up under one or two hinges afterwards, then you can make them with a very low failure rate.

they keep breaking at the hinges. Using Makerbot Replicator Can you tell me how to adjust hinge size to try and fix the problem.

mathgrrl - in reply to ace1mc

First make sure you are printing at .2mm layer height with NO supports. Then, before snapping, cut off any droopy bits that are hiding under the hinges; specifically, at each horizontal hinge there may be a small droop of filament underneath the ledge of the hinge, where it printed outward without support. If that doesn't work then open the model in the Customizer and try increasing the "hinge_clearance" parameter from the default .48 to something a tiny bit larger, such as .5. Good luck and let me know if that helps!

How does this fold? Isn't it solid?

mathgrrl - in reply to Star8109

It has enclosed hinges with parts that are close to each other but not touching, so the hinges can move back and forth to make it fold.

Woofing?

it breaks if you even try to do what its supposed to

are all of the pieces the same?

yeah, two of my favorite makers join forces to encourage each other, everyone wins!

My money's on mathgrrl!

Love this! (And the challenge)

To me this week is a tie. Both designs are remixes which shows that really you two are just getting warmed up. For real firepower you need original work. The geometry thing appeals the the engineer in me and the train tracks appeal to the kid in me. If I had to choose I'd go for the kid in me but really both are just as good. I hope to see some new creations from you two!

Les

I'm excited to see what the two of you get up to!

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