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Yazzo PolyBot - Raspberry Edition

by WilliamAAdams, published

Yazzo PolyBot - Raspberry Edition by WilliamAAdams Jun 14, 2011

Description

After a long lead up, this is the PolyBot Raspberry Edition. Reduced production cost, increased accuracy.

This thing is a bunch of modifications to the first PolyBot design from 4 months back. I wanted it to be my 100th design, and so it is.

The essential design remains the same, it is a delta robot housed in a tetrahedron frame. I have experimented with many tetrahedron frames over the past few months. The one presented here is based on the vinyl tubing vertices: thingiverse.com/thing:8306

There is heavy usage of zip ties as well. These have proven to be as strong as any other fasteners, and you simply can't beat the ease of use, or price.

It also uses the modified servo mounts, and improved male/female clevis pieces. The way the pieces are designed, there is very little wiggling around, so the arms are fairly rigid in their motions.

I have included all the plastic pieces here in one place for easy download/print.

I have also uploaded a massive collection of photos, and even a rudimentary instruction manual. If you look carefully, you'll notice the Arduino Sketch in the 'code' directory (wiidemo). There is also an 'Alternates' directory which contains various other odds and ends like a different effector base, options for vertices (using ball/socket if you prefer).

I have had my wife build this thing a couple of times now, and it goes together in a couple of hours, once you have your plastic parts printed.

Also of note, there are tighter tolerances on parts this time around. I've used nice steel pins for axles, and brass sleeve bushings in places for 1/4" steel pins to rotate. Nice and smooth! Although everything is pressure fit, and stays in place nicely, I've used some nuts and screws on the servo mounts to make them extra sticky.

Just a lot of little improvements here and there. The instruction manual is actually for a socket/ball joint based frame, but for the most part it will apply to any tetrahedron you choose.

Enough words... On to the files.

UPDATE: Some blog posting to go with it...
williamaadams.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/yazzo-polybot-raspberry-edition-take-one/

Recent Comments

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Thanks William! Getting closer all the time...

Same idea over here. I live half of the time here and half in China, so i was thinking that in October I should talk with some manufacturers. Specially because I get servos 3US$ and I know the guys from Seeedstudio. Not sure yet about the mechanical construction.

That's pretty cool. I'm sure as more and more people build these simple devices, the software side of things will begin to kick in. I'm thinking of creating a simple kit so that anyone can build one of these within about an hour and start playing with it.

Makes

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Instructions

1) Download the monster sized delta-raspberry.zip file. It contains pictures, source code, instructions, .stl and .scad files
2) Look at pictures, look at parts. The documentation tells you which McMaster-Carr parts to order, as well as some AdaFruit electronics, and miscellaneous stuff.
3) Build your tetrahedron frame
4) Cut your plywood platform and base pieces
5) Print your plastic parts
6) Assemble everything
7) Plug in some electronics, and a Wiimote
8) Rejoice!

Really I have a lot of work to do on the documentation, but you actually should be able to assemble just by looking at the bits and pieces, and the pictures. If not, then I've missed my design point. Usually parts will only go in one place, so it shouldn't be very easy to do things wrong.

Comments

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bstott on Sep 11, 2011 said:

Thanks William! Getting closer all the time...

todocono on Aug 16, 2011 said:

Hi Williams ! I constructed a couple of arduino based deltabots, but always have problems with the coordinate traslation. I was bad at university, that's all... I found your library very " inspiring" ... I am curious, I will include it in my next version, was it all hard-coded from the mathematical equations ?

Anyway, thank you again for sharing.

WilliamAAdams on Aug 16, 2011 said:

I'm glad you were inspired by my humble efforts. Do you have some pictures of your bots? I took the code from this tutorial: http://forums.trossenrobotics....

Although, nowadays, I would derive it from my quaternions library.

tentakles on Aug 8, 2011 said:

thanks so much for this awesome design!

i have ordered the parts from McMaster-Carr (and have some Arduinos and servos at home) and will try to build it.

im curious to know if some other people have built this version yet?

also, it would be cool to see some videos of it in action 8-)

tentakles on Aug 8, 2011 said:

turns out that McMaster-Carr cancelled my order they didnt want to send to europe :) so another source of those parts would be much appreciated

bstott on Jun 27, 2011 said:

I just started to look at the build files and saw your stress diagram for the: EffectorSwooped.PNG. I'm surprised that with the stress concentrations you did not radius the interior to be more ovoid and then remove the extreme sharp angles on the base contour/profile. To effect longevity - I don't know OpenSCAD - would you upgrade the part with smooth curves in place of sharp angles on the base and possibly radii into the uprights where they jut out of the base? Thank You for your very good project. I'm going to work on printing the clevis pieces today.

WilliamAAdams on Jun 27, 2011 said:

Don't take that as a stress picture. They're just pretty colors. It was the first time I had done the Bezier curves, so I was just looking for something to apply them to.

Putting a fillet where the axle holder attaches to the effector would be a good idea, as would removing those sharp corners.

There's also these more 'traditional' effectors:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

The second one requiring a different connectio
n.

Proton on Jun 15, 2011 said:

Impressive work. As always :)

Shouldn´t the clevis joints be reversed, so the male part is on the wooden stick?
That way, the axes of rotation are coplanar.
In the pictures, the parallellogram has smaller vertices in sideways motion than back-forward motion.

WilliamAAdams on Jun 15, 2011 said:

After some thought, I think I get your point.

I have considered what this joint would look like if I made it from custom milled parts. The axle itself could have a hole in it, and the female clevis attached to the arm could be attached to that hole directly with a pin. that would make it coplanar as well.

For these plastic parts, you're suggesting essentially the same thing. The mail clevis would have to come off the top, rather than the side as well I think.

WilliamAAdams on Jun 15, 2011 said:

I'm not quite getting the 'smaller vertices' comment. But, there is a 'hang up' if the angle is too small. I'll print a pair reversed to visualize the solution you're suggesting.

CloudMaker on Jun 14, 2011 said:

If one would change the servos for steppers, do you think the accuracy would be sufficient to use this as 3d Printer?

Also, can you maybe give some info on hypotetical max build volume?

Btw. big kudos for *all* of your work/designs!

WilliamAAdams on Jun 15, 2011 said:

I forgot to answer the stepper question.

I've played with steppers. The problem is slippage. You'll never know when they're in the right place. Of course, you could use steppers with magnetic encoders, and then you'll know for sure what position they are in.

In the original moc up of this thing, I used steppers. It's an expensive way to go with the encoders and all, but yes, that's a viable option, and possibly more interesting if you put a gear on it and a giant gear wheel on the arms.

WilliamAAdams on Jun 15, 2011 said:

Thanks for the Kudos. I like those snack bars.

The volume can be anything from 'small' to 'pretty large'. Meaning, given these simple arm designs, the things that govern the space are the lengths of the arms, and the strength of the servos. So, the real answer is, build one of the size you want, then make arms to fit that volume.

Although y
our arms might be physically capable of reaching the far corners of the build space, your real usable volume is probably something like a hemisphere, or cylinder.

and the shorter anser, you'll roughly get something between a TOM and an Ultimaker, if you were making a 3D printer out of this design.

ssured on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Congrats for posting 100 designs!

Nice work, how precise is the movement of the head?

About a year ago I also experimented with a delta robot. See http://prutsers.wordpress.com/... On the page there's a link to my arduino source controller, might be of interest to you. It implements proper forward kinematics.

Btw, love the icosahedron in the back of your first picture! ;)

WilliamAAdams on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Oh yah, that icosa utilizes your tetrahedron vertex. 36" on each side.

I guess I'm a fan of yours. Please do more stuff!

WilliamAAdams on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Well, you know, oddly enough, when you look at my code, you will find some similarities. In fact, I looked at your code. Originally from Trossen Robotics: http://forums.trossenrobotics....

It's very easy code to play with.

The precision is governed by the servos. With these inexpensive hobby servos, about .35 degrees per step. They are very twitchy.

My next version will use the Dynamixels, which are a bit more accurate. I've toyed with using a gear, for greater accuracy, but th
at can be for another revision.

This one is good enough to do some pick/place, and scanning work. Not accurate enough for .25mm extruded printing.

PacManFan on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Is there a video of this in action? Does the firmware support gcode yet?

WilliamAAdams on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Video - next on my list

Firmware - Right now, the only thing I've coded up is the demo with the wiimote. I figure it might not be too hard to use a gcode parser for the Arduino.

The machine itself won't generate gcode. Rather, it will read gcode, and provide movements. There are actually two parts to the software (at least that I'm working on).

One part is the raw movement (moveby, moveto, speed, etc). The second part is tied to whatever tool you so happen to attach t
o the effector. So, in the case of a 3D printer, you'd have the appropriate stuff to slice a .stl, and run an extruder.

If you switch out the tool, and put a laser scanner on the effector, for instance, you'd load up a laser scanner bit of code (and the raw code running the servos would remain the
same. If that makes sense.

Renosis on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Nice job! Looks great. I take it, it is quite a bit more accurate and repeatable?

Looks like I am going to have to release a new one too!

WilliamAAdams on Jun 14, 2011 said:

Way more accurate, and very repeatable, although the demo software in the pack is a bit hacky as I was messing around.

This is good enough of a platform to begin worrying about the software instead of the raw hardware. Very easy to crank these out in minutes and hours, depending on how much raw materials you have.

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