Loading

Portable Raspberry Pi game console

by Rasmushauschild, published

Portable Raspberry Pi game console by Rasmushauschild Jul 24, 2015
2 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

57100Views 4745Downloads Found in Video Games

Summary

This is my Portable Raspberry Pi game console. It's 3,6 cm thick, 9,6 cm wide and 13,6 cm long. Inside is a Raspberry Pi 2 running Retropie OS which allows it to emulate games from pretty much every single game-system from 1977 to 2003. It has both Raspbian and Kodi installed too.

SCREEN
The screen is a cheap composite backup camera screen from amazon. It has a resolution of 480x320 which might not sound as much, but it's no problem at all when playing retro games. Because the screen is made to work in your car it does need 12V to run out of the box. This however can be fixed easily, so that it runs of 5V :)

BATTERY
Battery wise it has a 6000mAh rechargeable Lithium ion battery which gives it around 4-5 hours of play time.
To charge the battery it has an Adafruit PowerBoost 1000C which can charge the battery in about 5-6 hours.

SOUND
The two built in speakers come from an old broken Nintendo DS Lite I had lying around (those could be replaced by the mini metal speaker from Adafruit). The audio signal coming from the Raspberry Pi is too weak to power the speakers on it's own, so it needs to be amplified. The amplifier is from an old cheap pair of external speakers for an mp3 player that I had lying around too (It could be replaced with a pam8302 amplifier from Adafruit). To turn the volume up and down it has an analog "slider" from an old pair of headphones (You could probably find something similar pretty easily).

BUILT IN CONTROLLER
The built in controller was the hardest part of this project, or more specifically the ANALOG thumb stick. The built in controller I made myself, it's a breadboard PCB with tactile switches, and an analog thumb stick on it. The tact-switches were pretty easy to connect, but I had a lot of trouble with the thumb stick!

ANALOG THUMB STICK
Because it's analog the Raspberry Pi cannot understand it right away. The signal from the thumb stick must be converted to a digital format first. If I had been a master programmer I could probably have gotten away with buying an ADC (analog to digital converter) and then writing a driver for it myself. But that did not work for me :(
So I did some research on the internet, and found that the Arduino could convert analog signals to digital, but since the Arduino was way too big to ever fit in my design I decided to go with an arduino "clone" called the Teensy, because of the much smaller footprint.
After tens of hours of frustration I finally managed to write a working script in a programming language I had never tried before, and get it on to the Teensy! :) (If you have a similar problem you can download the script from the download list "Controller_script_for_Arduino")

DESIGN
Everything except for the components and the four action buttons are designed in Autodesk 123D Design, and 3d printed on an Ultimaker 2. I can definitely recommend both 123D Design and the Ultimaker 2, they've been a solid team all the way through this project.

I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND ANY NON-3D MODELLER TO BUILD THIS PROJECT, SOME OF THE PARTS WILL BE HARD/IMPOSSIBLE TO GET, SO YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO SOME MODIFICATIONS. This is 100% possible since I've included the 123D Design file. But it's on your own risk ;)

SOFTWARE
Retropie is the main operation system, and you select game system and game trhough Emulationstation. Retropie is a great operation system, so go and check it out, if you think it sounds interesting: http://blog.petrockblock.com
Though Retropie is the main operation system, it has both Kodi (XBMC) and Raspbian installed, which means that you can play movies, series and music right on the console! You can even surf the web through Raspbian too, if you have a keyboard connected. Those two operation systems can be launched through Emulationstation as well.

SPECIAL THANKS TO FLOOB from Youtube and Petrockblog/Retropie forum, who helped me through the entire configuration of the built in controller. I could not have made it without his help.

video links:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FM7mc-y_9TI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQrT8IEYkmU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJQeFrU50oE

Instructions

I Printed all the parts, and all the components are linked below:

Since I live in Denmark most of the links I used are Danish, but I've tried to find alternative American and European links instead :)

Teensy 2.0: http://www.adafruit.com/products/199

Raspberry Pi 2 B http://www.amazon.co.uk/Raspberry-Model-Desktop-Quad-Linux/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1437737097&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi2

Afunta 3,5” TFT color LCD: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IUGW8VU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Polymer Lithium ION Batteri - 6 Ah/6000 mAh: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MVTF3EG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Wifi dongle RPI: http://thepihut.com/products/usb-wifi-adapter-for-the-raspberry-pi

PowerBoost 1000C: https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465

WeatherProof Metal ON/OFF Switch: https://www.adafruit.com/products/917

ABXY Tactile Swiches: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1119

Hotkey, Select, Start, L, R Tactile Swiches: https://www.adafruit.com/products/367

Screen controller - Long-Nosed Tactile Switches: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1490

PSP1000 ThumbStick http://www.adafruit.com/product/444

Breadboard pcb: any will work

PAM8302 Mega SoundBoard: http://www.adafruit.com/product/2130

Nintendo DS Lite Speaker: http://www.amazon.com/Ringer-Speaker-Set-Nintendo-Lite/dp/B0071AF9F8

More from Video Games

view more
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

57100Views 4745Downloads Found in Video Games

Makes

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Will this work with the B+ model? Any idea when a full guide will be posted as well? Really excited to start making one. This by far is the most impressive PiBoy out there.

Model b+ seem to have same size of 2b but not the same perfomance. if you want to emulate n64 or psx that require a little overclock on 2b to run full fps i suggest you to use 2b instead of b+. If you want to play gba or similar i think b+ it's ok, but it's only my opinion because i have not a b+ to test. For the build phase begin to look at the similar project on adafruit and later read all the comments where there are a lot useful things.

Thank you for the info!

Hi its an amazing project and i would make exactly the same but i know nothing about electronics. Can you add instructions?
Thanks
(sorry for my english)

Hello Yes it will be awesome to have a chart and a tutorial ! Btw great work !!!!

Has anyone developed a guide for this yet? I am just starting, and any help would be appreciated.

i will produce a circuit chart this august.

How is power supplied to the raspberry pi itself? Through the gpio pins?

Don't use the gpio pins. I shorted two pies that way. Use test pad PP1 for 5v power and PP3 for ground.

May 27, 2016 - Modified May 28, 2016

"Inside is a Raspberry Pi 2 running Retropie OS which allows it to emulate games from pretty much every single game-system from 1977 to 2003."

  1. Does that include cartridge consoles like Nintendo 64? My grandfather has one, but I can't play it often. Worse yet, it's really hard to find, much less the GAME that I like to play!
  2. How much money does the thing cost in whole (except for the 3D printed parts)?
  3. How are you supposed to code the thing? (And if the answer is "Well, you transfer it, of course!" then HOW do you transfer it?)

I've been thinking about printing this, but being home-made I don't trust every aspect of how it's built, programmed and operated. Still, referring to my previous comment, I think you made something awesome here.

This comment has been deleted.

what screws did you use?

fast forward a month, i am 99% done my own, i am just figuring out where to wire the teensy to the usb. Bravo on the project , this has really been fun.

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016

What is the light on the right side surrounded by a hexagon bolt? Only thing I don't see in your parts list.
Also, nice work!

I'm an idiot. Thanks!

Thats the WeatherProof Metal ON/OFF Switch. It has an LED that lights up when switched on.

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016

Just to understand before i start this project, all buttons and Analog stick are wired to the teensy, which is then wired to the first USB of the pi. Where would i connect the + and gnd of the teensy and screen? Also, based on the amp that you posted in the comments, im guessing that both your speakers are mono?

what resolution is tft? 640x480? or 800x480? is composite signal good enough and without lag? I have problem now with lag with gpio tft

The screen is 640x480, and it runs with no lag at all, nothing like an SPI (GPIO) screen.

Hi, do you sell one of this?
have you think add Rasp3 in this project?

I've a question: How do you get more games on this?

What I did to get games to go onto my Pi, was downloading them from emuparadise, using WinRAR extract the game file, put the game file onto a USB thumb drive for later use... Boot up your Pi and login, then type " startx " then press enter and it will bring you to the desktop. Plug that USB drive into your Pi, take the game file and put it onto your desktop for now. Open up the file browser - Open the pi folder - open the RetroPie folder - open the roms folder and find the system that you down loaded the rom for, open that system folder and drag the rom into it. After that Log Out of your Pi, and then in the console type " emulationstation " and it should open up emulationstation: Find your system and game... And Enjoy!!!

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Biblereader7 - in reply to WadeBrody

Sounds simple enough.

Apr 2, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016

OK, so you're 14 years old, you were able to make plastic pieces that can fit with other electronic tablet pieces- putting them together makes a REAL TABLET?!?!?!?! AWESOME DUDE!!!!!

This comment has been deleted.

Hi,

Are you able to create one that i'll buy ? I'm really interested since i don't think i have enough skill to create one by myself ..

Thanks a lot !!

Hi man!

Are there any guides on how to solder what where etc? I'm gonna print this and buy the parts listed at the front page. But I do not know how to assemble this thing.

Regards
Kim R
Norway

Could you please provide more information on how you connected the screen? Because you didn't hook it up via HDMI or A/V. I'm new to the Raspberry Pi community... Thank you!

I've been reading the past comments, and it seems to me that you're saying you soldered to the 3.5mm jack? Is that correct?

Yes, that's correct.
The screen is soldered to the test solder points on the bottom of the Pi corresponding to the pins on the 3.5mm jack.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=89522

I have another question also. How were you able to get Kodi onto your Pi?

Does it just automatically put it onto the sdcard when you write retropie onto it? Because I downloaded retropie/emulationstation through the terminal on Raspbian using code.

You should write the Retropie image directly to the sd card instead of installing it through Raspbian to get the best result.

Would you consider taking a commission to remake this with differnet colors, bigger screen and battery?

The screen can't be bigger without making the whole desig wider, and the battery already gives me around 6-8 hours of screen on time, so that's just fine as well.

Sorry for such a late reply. I'll msg you about further conversation.

This comment has been deleted.

This is, by far, the best Raspberry Pi handheld I've seen! I want to start making it but I had a question. I'm very new to Raspberry Pi so this may be a dumb question but are you able to use a power cable to play instead of using the batteries? Or do you have to use batteries as the only source of power? Because if the batteries are charging I don't want to have any down time.

Thank you!

Thank you very much!
Yes, you can use a power cable instead of batteries.
But by using the Adafruit Powerboost as charging circuit you can charge and play at the same time ;)

Hi Again, I am getting a little closer to completing this project. Can't wait until it is over. I do have a question about the audio amplifier. I am using a Pam8302 audio amplifier and the sound coming out of the speakers sound very weak. Is the sound supposed to be extremely weak? Is there a step I am missing? It sound like the audio from your video is pretty loud. Not sure what else I could do to pump out more sound. I also have not included a volume wheel. Any insight you could provide would be much appreciated. Thank you as always.

It sounds like the amplifier isn't getting enough power...
How do you power it?

I am connecting directly to the powerboost 1000. I will try switching some of my connections to see if that makes a difference. Thank you again. It always seems like I am getting stuck on some of the little things.

Jan 13, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016

This project looks really well designed, so I may make this! Does the Raspberry Pi get hot in that case? If so, would there be enough space so I could put some sort of heatsink/cooling inside it?

p.s. I found two NA friendly links to some parts, if anyone wants them:
Battery (Same battery, but not on Amazon) - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8484

EDIT: One of the links is for a touchscreen, so I removed it (can't believe I didn't notice)

Hi
The Raspberry pi doesn't get very hot, unless you play more demanding games for a long time.
You could add a heat sink to the processor but since the raspberry pi is completely enclosed in the 3d printed enclosure I doubt it would make much of a difference.
There should be enough space for a small one though ;)
Also thanks for the alternative link :)

Hi again!
I finally started to work on this project and so far I accomplished to wire the powerboost, the switch and the screen to the Raspberry Pi.
I also managed to make the scree work from 12v to 3v which it was I guess the hardest part...
I just have a doubt: it works if I connect it to the power line, but not on battery... when connected to both it shows that the battery is charging (yellow led on), but if it's only on battery and I try to turn it on the leds of every component just briefly blink and then nothing... like if I had not enough power... could that be the case? did I do something wrong?
Thanks

p.s. I want to make a simple guide when I'll be done assembling everything if you are ok with that ;)

Hi
Great that you're back on track :)
It sounds like the battery isn't fully charged yet.
If you have bought the same battery and power boost as i did it will take some time to charge the battery completely.
When the battery is fully charged the yellow diode in the power boost will turn green.
Try to charge the battery completely before connecting it to the rest of the circuit.

You are very wellcome to make an assembling guide :)

This comment has been deleted.
Dec 24, 2015 - Modified Dec 24, 2015

This is a really nice project, really well put together and looks very clean.

I'm looking to design something similar but had a few ergonomics questions for you or anyone who built this: how do you feel about the width of the device? I was able to source some cheap 16:9 5.6" and 6.5" LCD panels with small footprint controllers which would be nice to have; however it would raise the width to between 120-150mm or so depending on which I went with. I see yours is about 95mm wide - if another 35 or so mm were added onto the side would that be too much? how about 55? They are HDMI screens so I would likely just wire the boards together after removing the HDMI jacks for space - will be a pain but i'd imagine shoving an HDMI cable in there is damn near impossible

similarly - how do you feel about the height? I was considering essentially tearing an rpi 2 apart or possibly even using a zero to try and slim the height as much as possible - i was considering powering with 18650 batteries but the same issue there so I'm looking at alternatives or maybe integrating a gameboy color style battery hump at one end or going with a li-poly like you have here.

do you shut down then cut power with the vandal switch or do you have it wired to GPIO for shutdown? I'm trying to figure out the easiest solution here - if it's the latter are you pulling LCD power off of the pi? is that sufficient to shut it all off with a shutdown button?

hows the controller layout? any issues with the later gen games (e.g. n64 and the c-stick? I honestly can't think of a PSX game that used the right analog stick but how about l2/r2?)

finally whats your runtime with the 2000mah battery? would it be worth it to try and fit another in parallel to increase mAh and runtime?

Hey I know you haven't made a step buy step guide, but is their a video that is similar to this one that would teach me everything i would need to know to build this project. thanks!

Hi There, I am finally back to trying to put together this project. I am hoping you could help me with the psp analog stick. I connected to the teensy but for some reason I can't seem to get the orientation right. Should the pins connected to the wires be on the bottom or the top? I tested with the pins on the top and have the correct left and right movement but my up is down and my down is up. Does that seem right to you? I am also trying to wire the volume wheel and was wondering how you wired the three ground wires together like the L- , R- and RPI2 PP6. I am not sure if you are using a connector to split out the ground wires? Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

thank you.

Hi again.
Great to hear, that you're back on track again :)
If up and down on the thumb stick are reversed the easiest would be to just swap the connections on either the teensy or on the thumb stick itself. I guess you could change the script on the teensy, but it would be a lot harder.

"I am also trying to wire the volume wheel and was wondering how you wired the three ground wires together like the L- , R- and RPI2 PP6" I'm not exactly sure what you mean... I soldered all the ground wires from screen, sound, power etc. to the same ground on the Pi. All grounds from all buttons (except power and screen) are soldered to the same ground on the Teensy aswell.

I hope this answers your questions if not feel free to ask further :)

Sorry for the late reply. Sick kids have kept me away from working on the project. Still very close. I keep forgetting that you wired everything to the Teensy. I only wired the analog stick to the Teensy and planned to connect everything else through the GPIO pins. Might have to switch to soldering everything to the Teensy. By the way I have another question in regards to wiring the Metal LED switch. Do you have an example of the right way to wire from the powerboost to the metal switch? My wiring job does not turn on the power and I am hoping to avoid shorting out another Pi. Any assistance you could provide would be much appreciated. Thank you again.

Jan 8, 2016 - Modified Jan 8, 2016
sunsetstriker - in reply to msduvert08

I can answer for the metal switch :)
I soldered like this:
SWITCH POWERBOOST
normally closed EN
normally open LiPo
closed GND
minus GND
plus 5vo

I also need to know though the circuit diagram for the Teensy... :D

Hi
Sorry for not responding but I've been away for the entire holiday...
You are right about the metal switch :) (keep in mind though that the power should not be connected to the GPIO of the PI, but to the test pads on the bottom of the Pi (5V pp1, GND pp3))
For the teensy it doesn't matter how you connect the buttons, since they will be configured in retropie anyway (they must be connected to pin 1-13 if you are using my script though) ;)
The only thing, that matters it that the joystick must be connected to analog inputs (0,1) on the teensy.

I hope this answers your questions

Hi Rasmus,
finally I'm back in the project!
I connected everything to the teensy, but I still can't figure out where to solder the teensy... I've soldered the GND to PP48 and the +5V to the one under PP46 (it doesn't have a name...) but can't figure out which are the data pins on the teensy that need to be soldered on the rpi (I guess on PP46 and PP47)...

after that I'm practically done!!!

Thanks
Lorenzo

How do you know if you have fried your Raspberry Pi? I have both solid red and green led light and my pi will not boot up. Do you think it might be fried?

When did it stop working?
How do you know it's not booting?
Did you try to power it through GPIO?
Have you tried to burn a new image?

My Pi stopped working last week. I was trying to solder the teensy and potentiometer wheel. Did not notice anything strange during that process. A week later I am trying to boot it up and am getting nothing. I tried powering up through the GPIO and micro usb and am getting nothing. I already order a replacement from Amazon. I thought I could complete the project without having to buy a new pi2.

Hi! Great job!
I'm thinking about doing it also! will an iPhone 4 lcd work as well?

Thanks

The lcd currently used is composite, meaning it has only two wires for input.
As far as I'm concerned the iPhone 4 lcd has a pretty massive connector, which you would probably have to solder to the GPIO. Also I don't know if there is a driver for that screen available...
Lastly you would have to change the 3d model to fit the dimensions of the screen.
If you are very skilled at soldering and programming or just very lucky I think it will be possible ;)

haha ok you convinced me not to try it! I'll go for the composite one! ;)
Thanks

I almost printed all parts. Can you give me a proper explaination how to connect the speakers?
Are you soldering it directly to the jacks pin on the pi?

On the bottom of the Pi are a a lot of solder points named pp1, pp2, pp3, etc.
The 3.5mm jack has pp solder points for all connections as well - those are the ones I soldered both screen and audio to.
You can solder directly to the jacks pins, but I believed it would be a lot harder :)
Also remember to keep the wires going from the speakers pretty long, so it's more flexible to work with.

For all:

If you are using the RPI B+ / 2
PP24 = Comp. Video
PP25 = Audio Left
PP26 = Audio Right

That's correct

Nov 9, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015

If you could take the top off and take some closer pictures, life would be a whole lot easier for anyone who would like to assemble it, and so I know what I'm doing.
More specifically, the display ports (I see you've soldered to the DSI port, could a cmdk adapter be used instead of soldering directly to the board?) , the teensy (how does the soldering to the USB port work, and can soldering directly to the board be avoided?), the battery (how are you inputting power?) , and the amplifier (where is the input coming from? I don't see anything soldered to the jack.) . A small diagram of the GPIO would be great, too.
A small guide on how you used the breadboard for the display and modifying the display to run off of 5v would be nice as well.
Also, I haven't said this yet, but this is amazing. I would never be able to do anything like this.

I am planning to do some modifications, which require me to take the top of, but until that you'll have to do with my explanation :)
Actually I dont use the DSI port... I use the composite jack, which is very easy to solder to.
The internal controller (Teensy) is soldered to the bottom of the 1st usb plug, through a small switch sticking out the side.
Saddly I dont think you can avoid soldering completely.
The battery goes to the Powerboost 1000C and then to pp points on the back of the Raspberry Pi. The amplifier gets it signal from the pp points of the composite jack as well. The gpio is completely empty. The breadboard you can layot as you wish. For an image of the 5v screen mod check this link to my website: http://minifactory.dk/images3.html
Hope this answers you questions

Awesome, it does. So, the audio and the video are both in the 3.5mm jack, doesn't that require a lot of precision soldering? Also, soldering to the USB ports seems like it is also very hard.

I've also DM'd you my email, if you could notify me when you make the changes you were speaking of, that'd be great.

Actually it's not that difficult to solder to any of those, but if you don't feel safe about soldering you should probably do a bit of practice first.
I'll make sure to let you know, when I've got the pictures :)

Hi There, I recently purchased this screen from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MPY198?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
This screen uses <3v power. No need to modify from 12v. Hope this helps.

Wow, that's great!
I'll just add that to the parts list :)

Also, when I build one, would you permit me to make an instructable with pictures and the whole deal? I'll link and give you credit for all of it, of course.

Nov 7, 2015 - Modified Nov 7, 2015

Thank you for asking.
You have permission to do that if you want :)
That would be very nice of you

This comment has been deleted.

Is there a set of made instructions, or do we go off of the posted pictures?

Sorry, but there's no instuction page done at the moment...
So the pictures will have to do for now. Sorry

Hey there, I was just curious about the speakers - the Nintendo DS ones were not available, so do you by chance know the diameter of the speakers so I could order a different pair?

I took a look at the 3d model, and according to that it's diameter is about 24mm.
But it doesn't have to be that precise, as long as your speakers are not bigger than 24mm in diameter it should be fine :)

would ninjaflex work for the buttons

Nov 2, 2015 - Modified Dec 20, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to Bryce_B

Probably yes, but keep in mind that the four colored action buttons are not 3d printed.

Hi Rasmus, I hate to ask this knowing how busy you are. Definitely no rush on the response. I just tried converting the LCD screen from 12v to 5v and am not sure why it is not working. I was wondering if you remember the link you used that explained how to make that conversion? I have look all over and could not find a consistent example to follow. Things that seem simple enough are harder to overcome without the right information. Any assistance you could provide would be much appreciated. Thank you.

I'm also having issues..

Definitely hang in there. I feel like I am close but then I keep running into small issue. Can't wait till it is all done.

Do you need some advice or help?
Feel free to ask

This comment has been deleted.
Oct 13, 2015 - Modified Oct 31, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to msduvert08

Ok, did you buy from the excact link in the description?
If so, there is no Manual online, or atleast I couldn't find one.
I did take a picture of the assembly, however you can't upload images to the comment section...
So I uploaded it to a hidden page on my website, here's the link: http://minifactory.dk/images3.html
Hope this answers your question :)

Thank you for the link. I had to take a little break and am now starting back up with this project. The image shows the bypass you created from the eight pin regulator. I just wanted to make sure that you only connect the 5V bypass to the 12V pin up above? I can't see the entire image and did not want to miss anything. I am also assuming that left off the ground bypass from the 8 pin regulator to the ground near the 12V pin? I have seen another example where both the 5v and ground were connect from the regulator to the 12V and ground pinouts. I would be very excited if I can avoid doing that. I also have another question in regards to the teensy. Did you connect the mini usb from the teensy to one of one of the four usb pins on the bottom of the raspberry pi? I was able to program the teensy but was unsure how to wire it. I wanted to check and see the process you used before proceeding. Thank you again for assisting me with some of my questions.

Yes, the only modification on the screen is the ground wire, which is connected to 12v pin on the regulator.
The Teensy's USB is soldered to the bottom of the first USB plug on the Pi (It must be the first, to make sure it will always register as player 1) To avoid making that USB port unusable for other things it made a little switch on the right side of the console, which cuts the ground connection for the Teensy, making the USB port free again.
Hope this answers your questions :)

Sorry for the late reply. I bought the wrong display. I assumed I would be able to modify any display. I now know that I was wrong. I ordered one from Amazon and will get it in by Friday. I am crossing my fingers and hoping I am successful. By the way is the Teensy addition as involved as described on the pjrc.com website? I was wondering if assigning the gpio mapping to the Teensy a simple process. Thank you again. I am so close.

I see, probably you can use the display you bought, they are all very similar.
Yes, you could just solder the tactile buttons to the GPIO, however the RPI can't handle analog input, which means that the analog thumb stick wouldn't work. If you're ok with that, then there shouldn't be any problem with skipping the teensy :)

I see, probably you can use the display you bought, they are all very similar.
Yes, you could just solder the tactile buttons to the GPIO, however the RPI can't handle analog input, which means that the analog thumb stick wouldn't work. If you're ok with that, then there shouldn't be any problem with skipping the teensy :)

Hi Again, I want to thank you again for putting this project out there. It is definitely one of a kind. I am so close to completing this project I can almost taste it. I was hoping I could ask a couple of questions I am hoping you could help me with. I want to be very respectful of your time knowing that you are also working on school work. I was wondering about the connection of both the audio and video to the raspberry pi. Did you make connections directly to the raspberry pi audio pins? I have only seen examples of like that in all the portable pi projects. I want to make sure I am doing it right thing. Definitely don't rush and I will wait for your response when you have any free time. I will also try to post documentation on all the steps I took to complete the project. Wish me luck.

Oct 10, 2015 - Modified Oct 10, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to msduvert08

That's incredible! Great work!
So yes, the sound and video is soldered to the bottom of the jack, however not directly...
Instead it's soldered to the pp points connected to the audio jack (I think it was because it interrupted the screen signal, if it was soldered directly to the Jack.)
Hope that answers the question.
Also it sounds great with a documentation of some kind, that's definitely something that this project needs!

Thank you so much for all the praise, it's very nice of you!
Please feel free to ask any questions you might have :)
When I built this the first time I fried two raspberry Pi 2, hopefully the same won't happened to you ;)
Keep up the great work!

So first off, this design looks great. Just thought I'd let you know that. Second, I'm attempting to build this and I have a majority of the parts. Is there any way you could upload like an instruction manual of how you put together for reference? Also, for 3d printing, what file are the 3 buttons on the side along with the button dead center on the front under the screen?

Thanks, at the moment I'm not planning on making any further instructions, since I'm working on two new projects and since I have to focus on school (I'm only 14). The buttons on the right side is for controlling the screen (brightness, contrast etc.) And the black button in the upper middle is the button for activating hotkeys (Save State, reverse and exit).
Hope that answers your questions :)

Oct 8, 2015 - Modified Oct 8, 2015

Sorry, I knew what the buttons did. I'm asking which .stl files are being used for those buttons. I.E. the colored buttons are using the SNES button file. Does that make it a little clearer?

Edit: actually now that I look a little closer, are they just the tactile buttons sticking through?

First of, the colored buttons are not 3d printed, second: yes, the two outer buttons are just tactile switches sticking through, except for the middle one which is 3d printed.

If the colored buttons aren't 3D printed, then what is the SNES button topper .stl file for?

The colored buttons, that you can actually see from outside are from a fake snes controller.
Since the plastic buttons from the fake snes controller was hollow I made the SNES button cap holders.stl to fill out the button (to make it more steady and to fit the tactile button underneath better)

OHHHHH!!!!! That makes sooo much more sense!

One more question, what kiunds of wires did you use to combine everything. I was looking on adafruit and they sell female, male, and extenders. I just want to be sure I get the right ones before buying more things. Lol

All wiring is done with black and red 0.4 mm solder friendly wir.

Awesome! Thank you for all the quick responses!

You're welcome :)

Sep 18, 2015 - Modified Sep 18, 2015

Is there any reason a Teensy 3.1 wouldn't work? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering all these parts, just curious if this later version would work.

Another question... The switches, in your video when you pressed the abxy buttons, there was a loud "click" with each press and it seems most Raspberry Pi handheld projects are the same way. Do you know of a way to make the buttons softer how the SNES controller actually is?

Thanks

The Teensy 3.1 should work just fine as well :)
The reason why my buttons are "loud" is because the tactile switches are "the clicky type"
Just buy some soft tactile switches instead, they should be pretty easy to find :)

You know I hate to be a pain, but I can't seem to find "softer" buttons anywhere. Have you actually ever seen some? Any ideas on where to look?

Exactly!
That is the type your looking for.
I did a bit of research and found this ( http://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/4271408/ ) at RS electronics.
Hope that helps

Amazing! I'm going to be building this as soon as I get some extra cash. Question: When you plug in the emulator to the tv, do you need to change the output, or is it automatic? Same question for the headphones as well.

Great!
If you have HDMI plugged in when it boots up it will display through that automatically, otherwise it will use the build in screen.
The same goes for the audio jack :)

Did you have/get a budget?

I didn't have a specific budget at the start of the project, but I tried to keep the price down :)

I really love your project. You did one heck of a job. I am at the early stages of copying your Pi Gaming console. I feel like I can follow almost everything you included. I just have one question. What are the three buttons on the side above the power button? I want to make sure that I am wiring everything the right way. This is my first project and I am very excited to get it started.

Great, that you like it :)
The three buttons on the right side above the power button is for controlling the screens Brightness, contrast, satuation and more.
If this would be your first project, I might suggest you tried something a bit simpler, to get some experience first :)
But good luck if you decide to try anyway :)

This is FAR AND AWAY the coolest Raspberry Pi - Video game project I have seen!

Wow, thank you so much for your nice comment :)

Congratulations !!

This is exactly the project I wanted to do !!!
But I have no knowledge in electronics ^^
Do you believe that a novice can conceive with your future instruction?

ps: do you have planned a jack output for headphones ?

Aug 19, 2015 - Modified Aug 20, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to shinoo

Hi Shinoo, if you are a complete novice I wouldn't recomend you to build it, unless you are willing to put a lot of effort into learning along the way.
Maybe you should try a project like Adafruits pocket pi girl ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:807591 ) first. Even though it doesn't do quite as much it's still a great project, and the documentation and guide are very well put together!
Also yes, mine does have headphone output at the top :)

Pocket PiGRRL

Thank you very much for your answer.
Your project is one I find the most successful in terms of retro-game consoles raspberry, bravo!
I will listen to your advice and swallow my pride and do www.thingiverse.com/thing:807591 project or I thought perhaps this that seems a little further but well documented : https://learn.adafruit.com/super-game-pi

Again thank you for your reply ;)

Pocket PiGRRL

how much does it cost?

all the parts, assuming u have a soldering iorn. and dremel ect.

In parts alone it will be around $280.
Though with all the prototyping I did while developing it, it was more like $750!

$750 in what currency?!

US dollars, don't worry it won't cost that much to build now ;)

Yeah, I just went thorough your hardware list, doesn't look too bad...

Thanks for submitting this. Do you have YouTube video of this in action?

Nevermind, I found it

Sure, there are two in the description :)

Great Job. Would you maybe be willing to put the Files + Description how you did it on Hackaday.io too?

Aug 4, 2015 - Modified Aug 9, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to all3dp

Sure, I'm already working on it, I'll let you know when it's done :)
It might be some time, since school just started again.

Any chance there are instructions for all the wiring?

Hi Stillash, thank you for your interest! At the moment, I'm not planning on making more in depth instructions, since the wiring is quite complex ;) Also I would have to take it apart (again) to shoot some photos, for support of the instructions.
Also I'm at the moment working on another project, which has resulted in me forgetting half of how I did this one.
But at some point I may come back to do it.
Thanks again for your comment.

All parts printed in PLA?

Yes, all PLA :)

Great work on the documentation, this thing looks great!!

ABSOLUTELY AMAZING.... I love it soooo much i mean i guess if u wanted to u could use it as a media device aswell. Hey if u want a challenge could u try and design a comic book reader thing (kinda like a kindle)?

Thank you so much! Yes, it can be use as a media device, in fact it already has Kodi(XBMC), and Raspbian installed :)
The screen is a bit small, for surfing the web but watching movies works fine. Alternatively it can be connected to a TV via HDMI.
The idea with a Kindle like comic book reader sounds both cool and possible :) At some point I wish to do a Tablet, probably when (if) Android for Raspberry Pi is getting fully released :) A comic book reader could be either a part of that tablet, or a similar design :)
Thank you for your nice comment, and thank you for your suggestion! Definitely an interesting idea! :)

I could do a custom distrubution of linux for the Comic book..

At the moment I'm working on another project, that takes all my time.
But thank you so much for your offer anyway! :)

Ooh can we have some hints of that project? pls

Perfect! Thank you for updating. I am considering building one as well. I have built three bigger arcade cabinets with two with retropi and one with hyperspin. I have never attempted anything this small. Glad to see your project. Thank you for sharing with the community and keep on learning!

Great to hear, that the 3d models are used well :)
From what I know, it should be pretty much like building a portable arcade cabinet, since the software and most of the components are identical.
I'm actually planning on doing an arcade cabinet too, in the future - hopefully :)
Thank you for you nice comments :D

Wow great job! I have seen may adaptations of the portable pi and this one is at the top. I tried to download your 3d print files and three files and showing 0kb size and will not load namely, Hdmi jack plate, shoulder LandR buttons, and start and select buttons. any chance you could take a look and repost these as its looks like there is something wrong with the files.....or is it just me?

Last, again great build! Keep up the good work!

Jul 29, 2015 - Modified Jul 29, 2015
Rasmushauschild - in reply to ryoung0

Hi Ryoung0, Thank you so much :D
You were right about the download files, apparently thingiverse can't accept names with characters such as +.
But the problem is solved now, and all the files are available again :)
Thanks

Really nice one !

Top