27 to 1 reduction gearset
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Published on June 17, 2011
This thing was Featured on June 17, 2011
Description
Snap-together 3D printable gearset providing a reduction ratio of 27 to 1. Inspired by this thing thingiverse.com/thing:7379 and I used this script thingiverse.com/thing:3575 to generate the gears. The primary advantage of this design is that it uses only printable parts-- no fasteners, nuts or bolts.
Instructions
1. Print 3 of gears.stl, 2 of brace.stl and one each of the other parts. Do not print fullassembly.stl as that is just for the pretty render here on thingiverse.
2. Snap together.
3. There is no step 3
UPDATE: Don't print this thing. Check out variations by tbuser thingiverse.com/thing:9454 and makerblock thingiverse.com/thing:9460 instead.
2. Snap together.
3. There is no step 3
UPDATE: Don't print this thing. Check out variations by tbuser thingiverse.com/thing:9454 and makerblock thingiverse.com/thing:9460 instead.
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Linkreincarnate
on
June 18, 2011
said:
Throw a hand crank on one side and a motor on the other and you've got yourself a cell phone charger... Well you'd need a zeiner diode and a 10 olm resistor to limit the voltage and a usb cable to hook it up but fairly straghtforward...
MakerBlock
on
June 18, 2011
said:
I also think this would be very cool to incorporate your snap-together system into my Clockwork Spider. :) http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
More from mraiser
I made one and it looks really cool! Unfortunately the holes in the holders are way too big and consequently the gears move around and don't mesh right. (the braces also kinda slide in and sorta clamp it together and don't snap into the holes) Maybe the tolerances on my printer are tighter than yours? Also, it appears gear 3 has the teeth going the wrong way (the one that goes in the top and mates with the small gear beside it. (I'm not sure what the purpose of that second gear is anyway?) I ended up printing a second gear 4 in it's place.
The TOM has much tighter tolerances than my cupcake, so I'm certain that will cause wobbliness for newer/better printers. This was originally intended as a replacement for the worm gear in my tank-bot design http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... so the output needed to be at the bottom in order for the gears to not drag on the ground-- hence the second gear. The gear that's upside down can be flipped-- that's what the "top" part is for. It makes the input gear reversible. The input
&
amp; output gears should be oriented so that the square holes face outward. If I get some time I will try to re-do this thing in openscad so the tolerances can be more easily adjusted.