27 to 1 reduction gearset
by mraiser, published
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FYI, I had the same problems as Tony, printing on a Prusa Mendel - the holes in the holder being too big resulting in the gears not meshing properly.
I also noted that gear 3 printed without a square hole on the base - so I can't see how it can be flipped as you suggest above.
Also, I tried to open the files in meshlab and it complained "Premature end of file". Looking at the contents of the STL file I see there are several places where th
e facet is described as "facet normal NaN NaN NaN" -sure enough, when I replace these with actual (made up) numbers the file loads in meshlab correctly. This didn't seem to stop Skeinforge from compiling to gcode and it seemed to print out ok - apart from the problems already mentioned. I thought
you might want to know in case there is an issue in your stl generation process.
Regardless of the problems, thanks for sharing!
The TOM has much tighter tolerances than my cupcake, so I'm certain that will cause wobbliness for newer/better printers. This was originally intended as a replacement for the worm gear in my tank-bot design http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... so the output needed to be at the bottom in order for the gears to not drag on the ground-- hence the second gear. The gear that's upside down can be flipped-- that's what the "top" part is for. It makes the input gear reversible. The input
&
amp; output gears should be oriented so that the square holes face outward. If I get some time I will try to re-do this thing in openscad so the tolerances can be more easily adjusted.
I made one and it looks really cool! Unfortunately the holes in the holders are way too big and consequently the gears move around and don't mesh right. (the braces also kinda slide in and sorta clamp it together and don't snap into the holes) Maybe the tolerances on my printer are tighter than yours? Also, it appears gear 3 has the teeth going the wrong way (the one that goes in the top and mates with the small gear beside it. (I'm not sure what the purpose of that second gear is anyway?) I ended up printing a second gear 4 in it's place.
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Instructions
2. Snap together.
3. There is no step 3
UPDATE: Don't print this thing. Check out variations by tbuser thingiverse.com/thing:9454 and makerblock thingiverse.com/thing:9460 instead.
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Throw a hand crank on one side and a motor on the other and you've got yourself a cell phone charger... Well you'd need a zeiner diode and a 10 olm resistor to limit the voltage and a usb cable to hook it up but fairly straghtforward...
I also think this would be very cool to incorporate your snap-together system into my Clockwork Spider. :) http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
I made one and it looks really cool! Unfortunately the holes in the holders are way too big and consequently the gears move around and don't mesh right. (the braces also kinda slide in and sorta clamp it together and don't snap into the holes) Maybe the tolerances on my printer are tighter than yours? Also, it appears gear 3 has the teeth going the wrong way (the one that goes in the top and mates with the small gear beside it. (I'm not sure what the purpose of that second gear is anyway?) I ended up printing a second gear 4 in it's place.
The TOM has much tighter tolerances than my cupcake, so I'm certain that will cause wobbliness for newer/better printers. This was originally intended as a replacement for the worm gear in my tank-bot design http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... so the output needed to be at the bottom in order for the gears to not drag on the ground-- hence the second gear. The gear that's upside down can be flipped-- that's what the "top" part is for. It makes the input gear reversible. The input
&
amp; output gears should be oriented so that the square holes face outward. If I get some time I will try to re-do this thing in openscad so the tolerances can be more easily adjusted.