Paxtruder-0.1
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Published on October 4, 2009
Description
This extruder is a derivative of Zach's plastruder and I'm really excited to share it. The main difference is that exchanged the idler wheel with a Delrin plunger. This reduces the overall size of the extruder uses two fewer layers.
Using a plunger allows the force exerted on the filament perpendicular to its direction of travel to be adjusted while the extuder is running. I mounted the electronics along the side, so I can view the teeth on the filament on the way to the thermal barrier and adjust the force to get the tooth depth I like.
With this design, changing the filament takes approximately ten seconds from when the barrel becomes hot enough. The motor can be removed with out disassembling the housing.
There is, however, a flaw in this particular design. The captive nut holding the plunger screw will crack the acrylic if you tighten things too much. In the next version I will have this fixed. This design is also based on a larger diameter timing pulley, so the filament guide is a little off.
See it in action youtube.com/watch?v=HMjVrmLJvIU
Subversion svn.makerbot.com/users/charles/paxtruder/
Using a plunger allows the force exerted on the filament perpendicular to its direction of travel to be adjusted while the extuder is running. I mounted the electronics along the side, so I can view the teeth on the filament on the way to the thermal barrier and adjust the force to get the tooth depth I like.
With this design, changing the filament takes approximately ten seconds from when the barrel becomes hot enough. The motor can be removed with out disassembling the housing.
There is, however, a flaw in this particular design. The captive nut holding the plunger screw will crack the acrylic if you tighten things too much. In the next version I will have this fixed. This design is also based on a larger diameter timing pulley, so the filament guide is a little off.
See it in action youtube.com/watch?v=HMjVrmLJvIU
Subversion svn.makerbot.com/users/charles/paxtruder/
Instructions
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cyrozap
on
October 5, 2009
said:
You should add a 606 bearing on to the end of your motor shaft so that the linear pressures that you place on the shaft with the delrin wont kill your motor. That's how mine was killed (over-tightened idler-wheel). Also, it makes the plastic flow much more consistent.
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Interesting design. How often do you have to tighten the adjustment screw as the delrin wears down?
I've never had to tighten it due to wear and have never noticed any. Delrin has very low friction with ABS and is pretty strong. I tried this with a bit of PTFE, which got a channel squished into it, but also did not wear.