Electromagnet 2
by mattmoses, published
Description
It is a cylinder with a helical channel. The channel is designed so that the part can be printed without any internal support material. This was printed on a Dimension uPrint with zero internal support material.
The hollow channel can then be filled with low-melting-temperature metal alloy to form an electromagnet.
Due to the low number of turns, the performance of the electromagnet is poor. This is really just a proof-of-principle of the fabrication method, not much of a practical electromagnet.
Malone and Lipson report better results using similar materials with a layer-by-layer approach in the paper "Multi-material Freeform Fabrication of Active Systems" which can be found here: creativemachines.cornell.edu/publications
The SpoolHead is another promising approach for making embedded conductors. Info here: reprap.org/wiki/SpoolHead
UPDATE June 27 2011 - Also be sure to check out Rhys Jones' new results on the RepRap page here: blog.reprap.org/2011/06/new-approach-to-printing-metals.html
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Instructions
Be careful if you actually try to do anything with low-melt alloy. It is messy, toxic, and hot enough to cause burns. Use it only if you are experienced working in a lab environment.
STLs and Alibre source files are provided.
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Nice mold, concept, and process!
I haven't read the full details of the process, but it looks good. Also, I don't know if your process includes lead, but if there is a need for a non-toxic solder alternative, I've used 58% bismuth, 42% tin low melting point fusible alloy in the past for soldering boards for another repstrap. On
e can mix it on their own or buy it from sites like this:
http://www.rotometals.com/Low-...
It is called Low 281 on this site because it melts at 281F or 138C. It's less expensive than other non-toxic alloys with silver and indium, but less electrically conductive. Bismuth is
also much less conductive than lead, but with a somewhat larger cross-section like these turns, that won't matter as much. Bismuth is also harder than lead. Like water, bismuth expends when it freezes, and so will this alloy (by a couple percent).
By the way, if you want to make your own, you mi
ght want a 0-~200gram digital scale, a crucible (graphite is a common type, cheap, and tends to reduce oxidation), tongs and a stove. You can buy 99.9X% pure bismuth ingots and tin pellets. All of this is available on ebay. You can measure the bismuth ingot(s) weight first, then calculate how muc
h tin you'll need. Then you can dispense the correct weight of tin pellets onto the scale. Then, throw the bismuth and tin into the crucible. Heat it to ~500 deg F and when the bismuth starts to melt, the tin will combine and reduce the melting point of the mixture to 138C. When this happens, ta
ke the crucible off the stove to minimize oxidation of the alloy (I used an electric stove or pan because I thought the graphite crucible might slowly burn up under direct gas flame). Pour the molten alloy into a similar container shown above prior to the molding process.
Not related to molding: I
've used olive oil to help Bi-Sn wick to solder pads- it smells like cooking instead of death. But it doesn't work as fast as rosin/flux. This Bi-Sn stuff is so fun to solder. Initially, you can pour it into a long wand then melt the end with the soldering iron quickly and easily. The low conduc
tivity of the Bi lets you hold the solder wand without your hand burning. It also means that only the tip of the wand melts, which lets you do precision soldering. It takes a little practice, but I think it's amazing stuff to solder with. If you get too much solder onto a joint, the wand acts as
a solder sucker when you touch it to the molten solder joint.
I hope more people do what you are doing with LMP alloy and 3D-printed electronics!
What was the resistance of the windings? Are you using a bismuth-lead-tin alloy like "212" from Rotometals, or a different one?
The resistance of the coil is low. It is hard to get a good measurement; my best estimate is about 0.06 Ohm. With a 1/2 inch bolt as a core, and drawing around 10A it will produce a decent pull. At such high currents the coil does not last long before failing. The material is P/N 8921K23 from McMaster. It melts at 203F and is 52.5% Bismuth, 32% Lead, 15.5% Tin.
that's how you let the folks on thingiverse know you're serious... start pouring molten metal into your prints. ;) always great to see your work, matt!


I like this concept. What metal did you use? Gallium?
It is an alloy of bismuth, lead, and tin. Melting point 95C. Available in the US from McMaster, part number 8921K23.