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Wanhao Duplicator i3 front blower fan mount and shroud

by NvigR8, published

Wanhao Duplicator i3 front blower fan mount and shroud by NvigR8 Aug 17, 2015
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Summary

These parts adapt a blower type fan for use on the front of the machine. The shroud snaps into place and was printed with PET while the rest was done in PLA.

NEW VERSION: HEX

** Warning - On long builds I've melted this shroud pretty badly where its close to the heater block. You might want to put some aluminum foil tape or kapton on the inside to prevent this if you are going to use it. I'm working on a redesign. Thanks for your interest. ***

I've redesigned the shroud to have six outlets near the nozzle but pointing down only onto the extrudate. These are spaced apart so as to allow the nozzle to be visible from several angles as well. Plus it looks cool. No pun intended.

This is the fan I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

OLD VERSION

Don't print the shroud with supports.

The holes are a little small and will need to be drilled out for M3 and M4 screws.

This is the fan I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The shroud is an adaptation of a design by delukart.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

RepRap

Printer:

Wanhao Duplicator i3 (Pruisa i3)

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.1 - 0.18mm

Infill:

100%


Notes:

The area of the shroud that needs supporting is the horizontal upper section of the female socket that mates up to the elbow and the arches within. Do not autosupport! Your software may put supports inside the cooler which cannot be removed.

The only area of the elbow that needs to be supported is the horizontal underside of the male part of the socket and the arches within.

I suggest PET for the shroud and use cooling (regardless of material) for at least the top half of the print for the nozzles.

Once supports are cleaned out, superglue the elbow to the shroud. It should be a fairly tight fit.

Depending on how your heating block is oriented, a corner may rest close enough to the shroud to melt it locally. I suggest taping the inside of the shroud with kapton or aluminum tape just to be safe.

The holes are a little small in the mounting bracket and will need to be drilled out for M3 and M4 screws. The screw on the left side goes in from the underside.

Post-Printing

Once supports are removed, a little filing or scraping may be needed to get the elbow to fully seat into the shroud.

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Jun 26, 2016 - Modified Jun 26, 2016

Any chance you could provide the original file?

I have a Hictop 3DP12 instead of a Wanhao, and the fan mount is different.

I want to make a modification to use the HEX fan shroud+elbow with the Hictop printer.

Thanks.

What format do you want?

Do you have it in Sketchup .SKP by any chance?

Sorry, no. I can export any of the more common formats though.

Oct 6, 2016 - Modified Oct 6, 2016
ThingZRWroxx - in reply to NvigR8

dwg, dfx, would be great.

I am having a problem with the Elbow. The file is much larger than the others, it slices very weird and does not print. Is anyone else have this issue?

I have a glass bed with bulldog clips. Will this mod clear the clips or run into them in the lower left corner like the stock fan mount?

Yes, I think it probably will collide.

Nice cooler. Is it necessary to tune the PID settings when using this cooler?

I am not certain, but I don't think it would be necessary since the holes dont point directly at the heater block or nozzle.

I'm curious what screws did you used to attached the fan, bracket and the cover?

Since I was curious about this as well before I built, here's what I used:

Vertical (bracket) screws: 2x M3 10mm. A bit shorter would work as well.
Fan screws: 2x M3 18mm (without the fan cover). 25mm would probably work best with the fan cover.

Just for more info, I used the following with no issues:

Vertical (bracket) screws: 2x M3 8mm.
Fan screws: 2x M3 20mm (without fan cover).

Without having it here in front of me, I think it was an M4 for the two fan screws and an M3 for the two bracket screws. Lengths, I don't know. I can check these things tonight and update.

My first print of this i had extreme temp drops with my hot end. How do you suppose i fix this? Do you think the holes for the air are too big, or something else?

Oct 9, 2015 - Modified Oct 9, 2015
NvigR8 - in reply to laxrocker

It is a high flow shroud design and the holes direct air at the nozzle/extrudate, so some temp drop would be possible. You may need to reduce your fan speed if it is a problem. I am working on a different shroud that has a more precise placement of airflow which will hopefully mitigate nozzle and bed cooling issues.

Comments deleted.

You just replace the blower fan with the one from amazon and connect it to the same connector the other one used?

Correct.

Thanks!

Wow, so much better than ANY of the designs using the stock fan. I am very happy with the results from this mod.

Comments deleted.

Is there any reason PLA wouldn't work for this print?

Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016
harb37 - in reply to dokool

ATTN: I have printed this in PLA and started using it on my PETG prints. It worked fine for a while, but layers started to separate. It's safe to say that if you start printing with a filament that is of a higher temperature, then you should print a new shroud with that filament.

You certainly could. I wanted to make sure that it didn't soften from the radiant heat of the heater block so I used PET.

Originally found this design from someone on Reddit using all PLA so I guess it can't be that bad, but I don't have access to PETG here so my options are limited.

If you are printing only PLA I think it would be fine. I used PET cause I print higher temp filaments sometimes.

In case y front see the other posts, there is a screw hole in the underside left for mounting.

Any chance of modifying this for a bigger blower? I accidentally ended up with one that's about 20mm wide.

I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to anytime soon. I'm backed up on other work. I don't mind giving you the original file if you want to modify it yourself.

Sure, I'll give it a shot.

What format would you like?

Awesome, just got this all printed up. Easily a 5x improvement over the other cooling shrouds on Thingiverse that mate up to a 30/40mm fan. Only issue I had was mounting it to the extruder. The printed mount only has 1 screw hole, but the screw doesn't grab on the other side of the plastic. Thanks a bunch!

You are welcome. Glad it worked for you. There is a second hole. If you are looking at the thing from the front, it's on the left on the underside.

Can you post your settings for the cooler, what layer height?

Thanks!

I believe the layer height was .15. I'll have to check when I get home. If you are using PET like I did, you might want to turn your fan on for that topmost part. It got a little melty on me with the fan off.

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