Prusa Modular Build Platform System
by ScribbleJ, published
0
Share
Description
This is a co-invention, TheMegaCorp ( thingiverse.com/TheMegaCorp ) and I worked together to invent the ultimate simple build platforms for our Prusas.
These platforms are cut from 1/4" MDF, with a top and bottom part that snap together tightly. This allows you to have one heated platform with kapton for printing ABS and one with polycarbonate for PLA, or whatever combinations you need!
TheMegaCorp added a hole in the bottom plate, so you can now access your belt clips and tighten your belt without removing anything!!! GENIUS!
You can buy every part of this except the heated PCB in a single trip to Home Depot.
Ideas for improvements:
- add magnets to make a solid connection even after the boltholes eventually wear down.
- get a better model than TMC... what's Vanna White doing now?
These platforms are cut from 1/4" MDF, with a top and bottom part that snap together tightly. This allows you to have one heated platform with kapton for printing ABS and one with polycarbonate for PLA, or whatever combinations you need!
TheMegaCorp added a hole in the bottom plate, so you can now access your belt clips and tighten your belt without removing anything!!! GENIUS!
You can buy every part of this except the heated PCB in a single trip to Home Depot.
Ideas for improvements:
- add magnets to make a solid connection even after the boltholes eventually wear down.
- get a better model than TMC... what's Vanna White doing now?
Recent Comments
view all
Well, the only weight it has over any other platform is the bottom sheet of MDF, and that has a giant hole in it. It is plenty light enough to operate, but if you wanted it lighter, you could increase the size of the hole by a fair amount!
I love the belt idea, but man, how much does that thing weigh?
It is very similar and I owe you some credit! I saw those photos on IRC before we started this project and used them for some inspiration, but couldn't remember who's they were! THANKS!
Tags
License
Give a Shout Out
If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.
Print Thing Tag
Instructions
It probably helps that TMC and I both have slightly oversized Prusa builds.
1) Measure the actual distance between your triangle ends, and subtract a 1/4" margin. Cut a rectangle of 1/4" MDF that's 5.5" x your distance. This is your 'squashed frog'. Then cut at least three squares of your distance x your distance. These are your lower platform and two upper platforms.
2) Make a stack of the squashed frog, and the three cut squares. Label their orientation with A and B. Also label which are the top platforms and which is the bottom. Make sure they are very neatly aligned, then use a clamp to hold them firmly together. Mark a spot to drill 3/8" in from each corner of the squashed frog.
3) Use a 1/8" drill (for M3 hardware - sorry for the bizarre mix of English and Metric) and drill the four holes you just marked. If you're not using M3 hardware, select a drill bit size that allows your bolts to slide through the hole cleanly, but with no slop. Drill through the whole stack.
4) Remove the squashed frog from the stack. Take your heated bed PCB (assuming you have one) and use it as a template to mark mounting holes on the remaining stack. Use the same drill from step 3 to drill these holes though the entire stack.
5) Now break up the rest of the stack. Mark four holes in the center of the BOTTOM PLATFORM, make a square that will allow you to cut out a hole to reach your squashed frog belt clips. Use a large drill to drill these holes in the BOTTOM PLATFORM only. Use a jigsaw to connect the holes and cut out a squareish hole to reach your belt.
6) In the BOTTOM PLATFORM, re-drill though the 4 heated PCB holes with a 1/4" drill (This fits M3 hardware - use a drill that fits your bolt head snugly (not TIGHT, just snug).
7) In the TOP PLATFORMS, re-drill through the 4 squashed frog holes with the same size (1/4") drill.
Now you are ready to assemble it! Use the photos for examples of how to build your hardware stack. The important part is, the bolt heads will fit into the larger holes, giving you sunk bolts, and also a firm mechanical connection between the plates. If you want an even better connection, thread a nut onto your bolts first, so they stand up higher, as TheMegaCorp has done in the photos here. The fender washers in-between the springs are only there for style points, they do not accomplish anything.
* HEATED PCB TOP TIPS/NOTES:
- We are using the heated PCB from Ultimachine. At $50, it's quite a bargain.
- The insulation we put underneath is ZOLTEK PYRON. We could probably run these straight on the MDF, but ZOLTEK PYRON is worth it for the name alone! You can get these sheets at Home Depot, sold as a FLAME PROTECTOR for plumbers to solder over.
- The aluminum is the very skinny aluminum sheeting available at Home Depot. I'd like to replace it with something more solid but this seems to work great in the interim. You can machine this with a jigsaw and a drill. Easy.
* POLYCARB TOP TIPS/NOTES:
- We are using a narrow sheet of polycarbonate from Home Depot.
- We should have cut it with drilled holes to match the heated PCB size, but we cut it before we came up with this dastardly plan, which is why we've mounted it down with washers.
1) Measure the actual distance between your triangle ends, and subtract a 1/4" margin. Cut a rectangle of 1/4" MDF that's 5.5" x your distance. This is your 'squashed frog'. Then cut at least three squares of your distance x your distance. These are your lower platform and two upper platforms.
2) Make a stack of the squashed frog, and the three cut squares. Label their orientation with A and B. Also label which are the top platforms and which is the bottom. Make sure they are very neatly aligned, then use a clamp to hold them firmly together. Mark a spot to drill 3/8" in from each corner of the squashed frog.
3) Use a 1/8" drill (for M3 hardware - sorry for the bizarre mix of English and Metric) and drill the four holes you just marked. If you're not using M3 hardware, select a drill bit size that allows your bolts to slide through the hole cleanly, but with no slop. Drill through the whole stack.
4) Remove the squashed frog from the stack. Take your heated bed PCB (assuming you have one) and use it as a template to mark mounting holes on the remaining stack. Use the same drill from step 3 to drill these holes though the entire stack.
5) Now break up the rest of the stack. Mark four holes in the center of the BOTTOM PLATFORM, make a square that will allow you to cut out a hole to reach your squashed frog belt clips. Use a large drill to drill these holes in the BOTTOM PLATFORM only. Use a jigsaw to connect the holes and cut out a squareish hole to reach your belt.
6) In the BOTTOM PLATFORM, re-drill though the 4 heated PCB holes with a 1/4" drill (This fits M3 hardware - use a drill that fits your bolt head snugly (not TIGHT, just snug).
7) In the TOP PLATFORMS, re-drill through the 4 squashed frog holes with the same size (1/4") drill.
Now you are ready to assemble it! Use the photos for examples of how to build your hardware stack. The important part is, the bolt heads will fit into the larger holes, giving you sunk bolts, and also a firm mechanical connection between the plates. If you want an even better connection, thread a nut onto your bolts first, so they stand up higher, as TheMegaCorp has done in the photos here. The fender washers in-between the springs are only there for style points, they do not accomplish anything.
* HEATED PCB TOP TIPS/NOTES:
- We are using the heated PCB from Ultimachine. At $50, it's quite a bargain.
- The insulation we put underneath is ZOLTEK PYRON. We could probably run these straight on the MDF, but ZOLTEK PYRON is worth it for the name alone! You can get these sheets at Home Depot, sold as a FLAME PROTECTOR for plumbers to solder over.
- The aluminum is the very skinny aluminum sheeting available at Home Depot. I'd like to replace it with something more solid but this seems to work great in the interim. You can machine this with a jigsaw and a drill. Easy.
* POLYCARB TOP TIPS/NOTES:
- We are using a narrow sheet of polycarbonate from Home Depot.
- We should have cut it with drilled holes to match the heated PCB size, but we cut it before we came up with this dastardly plan, which is why we've mounted it down with washers.
File Name
Downloads
Size
Comments
You must be logged in to post a comment.
ljyang
on
Jun 29, 2011
said:
Very similar to how have mine setup. Here are pics of my setup with information in the comments for each pic. https://picasaweb.google.com/l...
ScribbleJ
on
Jun 30, 2011
said:
It is very similar and I owe you some credit! I saw those photos on IRC before we started this project and used them for some inspiration, but couldn't remember who's they were! THANKS!
I love the belt idea, but man, how much does that thing weigh?
Well, the only weight it has over any other platform is the bottom sheet of MDF, and that has a giant hole in it. It is plenty light enough to operate, but if you wanted it lighter, you could increase the size of the hole by a fair amount!