Quick Flip - fast swicth between HBP and ABP
by Bluemetal, published
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Description
Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:8878 and until I get the ABP to do what it is supposed to do for all height prints, I have created a simple systems to switch between the two. It requires one more MBI heater board ( store.makerbot.com/makerbot-thingomatic-heater-board-v1-1.html ) so there is no dismantling necessary.
The idea is to replace the X stage front and back plates with printed counterparts (one could use the wooden pieces but the removal would probably injure it eventually) and to install a pair of clips to the underside of the ABP and the HBP.
The ABP will require 4 extra holes (exactly where the HBP has them) but otherwise the transformation is reversible (important to me).
The HBP has 4 thumbscrews to adjust height in each corner and the ABP is being modified further to use a Stainless Stell belt as seen here thingiverse.com/thing:9127 along with a servo driven "tensioner" that tenses the standard length belt during printing so some more stable height gain can be obtained from the ABP but releases whenever the belt needs to moves. I will post this one when I am done building and testing it.
I have added the SketchUp files for your editing pleasure.
The idea is to replace the X stage front and back plates with printed counterparts (one could use the wooden pieces but the removal would probably injure it eventually) and to install a pair of clips to the underside of the ABP and the HBP.
The ABP will require 4 extra holes (exactly where the HBP has them) but otherwise the transformation is reversible (important to me).
The HBP has 4 thumbscrews to adjust height in each corner and the ABP is being modified further to use a Stainless Stell belt as seen here thingiverse.com/thing:9127 along with a servo driven "tensioner" that tenses the standard length belt during printing so some more stable height gain can be obtained from the ABP but releases whenever the belt needs to moves. I will post this one when I am done building and testing it.
I have added the SketchUp files for your editing pleasure.
Recent Comments
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That is a good suggestion. There is precious little space on the back side with the Z-rods there so it would have to designed on the inside (between the clips and the x-stage) so it may be hard to get your fingers in there. You will also need to get the Z-stage a lot more out of the way than if you reach each clip from the sides and "pop" them out on the back and then on the front. The other aspect is that the clips are, on purpose, rather solid so they require some effort to bend - the bar would have to be strong for these clips. Some easier clips would work a lot better with a cross bar.
On the front it would probably work well. You could also have a place to hold the cable in place too. It will look like a though car bumber. ;)
I'd like to say - Congrats. Good post.
May I suggest you add a bar across the two clips on each side. Then you can grab, press and lift.
In my mind maybe? *DONT_KNOW*
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Quick Flip - fast swicth between HBP and ABP by Bluemetal is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
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Instructions
1. Print 2 Quick Flip plates and 2 pairs of clips.
2. Remove the wooden bases from the ABP and HBP. They are different and both came with my TOM.
3. Using the HPB as guide, mark the 4 holes to be drilled on the ABP as shown in the pictures (they are the 4 outermost holes.
4. Countersink the holes in the printed clips so the 3mm screw heads are out of the way when fully in place. Look at the pictures to see which side is to be countersunk. You will need to use 10 or 12 mm screws or just cut longer ones like I did ( be sure to file the sharp edges left). If you cut them outside of their final place remember to set a nut or two in the screws so you can recreate the start of the screw "spiral" after all the cutting and filing is done.
5. Before gluing the clips, place them in the future positions and check the precise position where the two halves will be glued together later with ABS cement, Acetone, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or any glue that works.
6. Remove them from the wood and glue it accordingly.
7. Remove the front and back plate of the X- Stage and replace with the Quick Flip plates (I tried to print in two colors to see the text better - it has no mechanical effect :) .Be careful with the wooden parts of the X- stage while putting the plates one - I broke the corner on the front on both sides and needed to "gorilla glue" it. A next step would be to remove the whole X-stage and replace the side plates with something like thingiverse.com/thing:9626 but I decided not just yet.
8. Before putting the HPB and ABP together, test the fit between clips and plates. I needed to remove part of the black plastic connector in the heater board for the HBP so it would not interfere with the wooden plate as I wanted maximum X-height gain. I also needed to remove some material in the HBP clips to create some space for the thumbscrews to fit under the HBP. Adjust accordingly in your case. The clips should miss the Z-rods by a few mms when homing - be sure to check.
9. The HPB adjustment thumbscrews I printed are attached but there are better designs in thingiverse as thingiverse.com/thing:9094 - the adjustment uses 4 disposable pen springs and the same countersunk 3mm screws used earlier.
10. You may need to lengthen your cable (that connects to the ABP/HBP) as you move the HBP connector to the front of the X-stage. Mine barely made but I ultimately increased its length some 200 mm more - carefully removed the metal pins, opened them with a small plier to be able to use it again and soldered the wire after the wire was in place again in the original plastic connector.
Use and improve it to your hearts content. :)
2. Remove the wooden bases from the ABP and HBP. They are different and both came with my TOM.
3. Using the HPB as guide, mark the 4 holes to be drilled on the ABP as shown in the pictures (they are the 4 outermost holes.
4. Countersink the holes in the printed clips so the 3mm screw heads are out of the way when fully in place. Look at the pictures to see which side is to be countersunk. You will need to use 10 or 12 mm screws or just cut longer ones like I did ( be sure to file the sharp edges left). If you cut them outside of their final place remember to set a nut or two in the screws so you can recreate the start of the screw "spiral" after all the cutting and filing is done.
5. Before gluing the clips, place them in the future positions and check the precise position where the two halves will be glued together later with ABS cement, Acetone, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or any glue that works.
6. Remove them from the wood and glue it accordingly.
7. Remove the front and back plate of the X- Stage and replace with the Quick Flip plates (I tried to print in two colors to see the text better - it has no mechanical effect :) .Be careful with the wooden parts of the X- stage while putting the plates one - I broke the corner on the front on both sides and needed to "gorilla glue" it. A next step would be to remove the whole X-stage and replace the side plates with something like thingiverse.com/thing:9626 but I decided not just yet.
8. Before putting the HPB and ABP together, test the fit between clips and plates. I needed to remove part of the black plastic connector in the heater board for the HBP so it would not interfere with the wooden plate as I wanted maximum X-height gain. I also needed to remove some material in the HBP clips to create some space for the thumbscrews to fit under the HBP. Adjust accordingly in your case. The clips should miss the Z-rods by a few mms when homing - be sure to check.
9. The HPB adjustment thumbscrews I printed are attached but there are better designs in thingiverse as thingiverse.com/thing:9094 - the adjustment uses 4 disposable pen springs and the same countersunk 3mm screws used earlier.
10. You may need to lengthen your cable (that connects to the ABP/HBP) as you move the HBP connector to the front of the X-stage. Mine barely made but I ultimately increased its length some 200 mm more - carefully removed the metal pins, opened them with a small plier to be able to use it again and soldered the wire after the wire was in place again in the original plastic connector.
Use and improve it to your hearts content. :)
Quick Flip - fast swicth between HBP and ABP by Bluemetal is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
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I'd like to say - Congrats. Good post.
May I suggest you add a bar across the two clips on each side. Then you can grab, press and lift.
In my mind maybe? *DONT_KNOW*
That is a good suggestion. There is precious little space on the back side with the Z-rods there so it would have to designed on the inside (between the clips and the x-stage) so it may be hard to get your fingers in there. You will also need to get the Z-stage a lot more out of the way than if you reach each clip from the sides and "pop" them out on the back and then on the front. The other aspect is that the clips are, on purpose, rather solid so they require some effort to bend - the bar would have to be strong for these clips. Some easier clips would work a lot better with a cross bar.
On the front it would probably work well. You could also have a place to hold the cable in place too. It will look like a though car bumber. ;)