Jaycar - Duinotech Mini 3D Printer - TL4076
I'm developing this info as a resource in the hopes that it can save some people some of the head-scratching that I've already gone through. I knew nothing about 3D printing before buying this 3D printer so there's been a lot to learn, and exasperating model-specific issues from 3D printing issues in general has been quite a challenge. Overall I've loved having this printer and have been absolutely blown away by the open and welcoming nature of the online 3D printer communities. However the dearth of online support for this particular model has inspired me to do my bit, so I hope this helps:
Official "Support" at the Jaycar Website: https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-mini-3d-printer/p/TL4076
The Jaycar website contains some very basic "How to" videos, which I found just enough to get me started printing. I didn't find them very useful once I started troubleshooting problems, but hey, they were aimed at beginners and they worked.
The website also contains a "Downloads" Tab (which is very easy to miss) and it contains four links that can be useful:
- a manual : Basic instructions all the way from unboxing, to printing and maintenance. Most useful for setting up slic3r on your PC.
- software download : Only contains the configuration file for slic3r program (download the actual program separately).
- firmware download : Is the firmware for the machine.
- datasheet : Contains instruction on how to set up the printer in Ultimaker Cura, which I haven't been able to do successfully yet.
Compatible Slicer Programs:
Crude, but effective until I started wanting to use supports for complex structures.
Ultimaker Cura: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software
In theory, still in the process of trying to set up.
In my quest to deal with the compression issue I've started wondering if it is a firmware problem. As I haven't been able to find any support online I talked to my local Jaycar and they pointed me towards this resource that I am yet to investigate:
"It has an arduino mega in it"
The Duinotech Mini Prototype: The Borlee Mini01 Mini 3D Printer
My research shows that Duinotech have rebadged a printer produced by a Chinese company Borlee. The HAVIT Tech YouTube channel shows what is apparantly a prototype of the distinctive Mini being testing in April 2015.
The printer was sold in the USA under the Borlee name by Amazon where it has received quite mixed reviews. It may be worth investigating support for that model.
Problems I've Encountered:-
Limiting this section to problems with this specific model of printer rather than for 3D printing in general. Listed in roughly the order I encountered them, and difficulty of solution.
Print bed not level: - Ongoing, easily the most tedious task with this printer.I am looking into different tool and fastener types for the bed to make it as easy as possible.
PLA not sticking to print bed: Solution - Use blue painters tape. I tried gluesticks and hairspray without any luck. I looked into heated bed as possibility, and there are kits on eBay, but I didn't want to work out how to connect it to the printer. As an alternative I have ordered a Fleks3D plate to attach to my print bed and hopefully do away with blue tape.
Printing more air than plastic: - Caused by default print speed settings in Slic3r being ridiculously fast. Solution - reducing the speed improved the print quality noticeably. I found 5mm/s for printing and up to 20mm/s for other movements to be optimal.
Warping: - Caused by printed models coming off the print bed during the print process. - Solution - Blue tape wrapped around the edges of the bed entirely to prevent it from lifting has helped mitigate, though not always eliminate, the issue. I had a large leap forward in quality once I reduced the printing temperature to 190 degress (from 200) after the first layer and a smaller leap forward when I stopped printing at 100% infill and reduced it to about 15%. Possibly the Fleks3D plate may help further once I install it.
Very Noisy Print Head Fan:- Caused by an unbalanced fan (I accidentally broke a fin off while levelling the bed mid-print). - Solution - Replace fan ($3 off eBay). And/or set the printer up outside the house, in a dedicated enclosure, under a blanket.
Bottom Layer Compression: First 6 layers print as 1 layer - This was a large and ongoing issue for me, and why I started compiling this information, and I even taught myself how to read g-code in my long misguided attempt at fixing it. However, as is so often the case the fix was easy once I diagnosed it. I had assumed that the auto-home function on the printer also calibrated the zero on the z-axis at the same time, but that wasn't the case. It turns out that the virtual zero was five layers lower than the physical zero, so in then end I simply had to physically adjust the adjustment screw on the z-axis up a few turns.
- Incomplete blobby prints: Filament not feeding into the print head fast enough - Caused by stripped extruder drive gearwheel. - Solution - Replace brass gear wheel (26 Tooth, 5mm bore, $2 on eBay) - Looking into sourcing a stainless steel replacement.
Useful Tools to have:
- 2mm hex driver t-bar - Build Plate Levelling
- 6mm ring spanner - Print Nozzle
- 10mm ring spanner - Bowden Extruder line connectors
- Razor Blade - Trim stray plastic off printed objects, slice the blue tape for easier removal of objects from the bed after a print.
- Isopropyl Alcohol - Wipe over the blue tape before a print to increase adhesion.
- Blue Painters Tape - Apply to aluminim bed for prints to stick.
- Small Side Cutters - Trim filament.
- Long metal tweezers - Pinch hot plastic off the nozzle when a blob forms.
I Am A…Student
Tools I Use…
Printers: Duinotech TL4076 Mini 3D Printer
Design Programs: Tinkercad, Slic3r, 3D Builder
3D Design Skill Level