I stream when I'm designing stuff in Sketchup sometimes! You can watch at my twitch channel (Colphaer)
I'm a compulsive designer and creator with a background in engineering.
I'm new to 3D printing as of 2017, but I've got a few thousand hours in Sketchup and have found that to be perfectly adequate for designing stuff so far. I got into 3D printing to realize an ergonomic keyboard design that's been kicking around my head for a few years but beyond my ability to fabricate at home.
I run an Anycubic Linear Kossel XL with the following improvements:
-- Top-mounted spool holder with hard drive bearing (retired printed thrust bearing in 2018 for causing too much friction)
-- Re-located extruder to the top of the machine (required extending the original wiring)
-- On-printer drybox made from a pair of deep 12" flowerpot trays with a foam seal and a printed through-wall for a run of bowden tubing
-- Filament cleaner/oiler
-- (Retired in 2018) Wiring strain relief mount for the printing head (made after the printer sawed off its first heater cartridge's wiring)
-- (Retired in 2018) Rubber bands and clips on the arms to tension them
-- Double bowden-cooled custom effector
-- Trick Laser 300mm carbon fiber arms and 3/8" barbells
-- Silent Nema motor mod (this is HUGE and well-worth the hassle of the necessary teardown)(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656288)
-- ATX power supply (Corsair HX 520W modular)
-- little foam footies
-- Corner reinforcements
-- Steel cable frame bracing
-- A heated bed on cork on hardboard on sprung height adjusters so I can do bed leveling without touching the carriages
-- and a very, very careful job of bed alignment, height adjustment, and delta rod length correction factoring
... With which the printer has become mighty good at printing. I used to say I'd recommend it to anyone, but honestly I'd say it's more of a tinkerer's machine. At some point it doesn't matter how cheap you can get a printer if you end up investing this much time into improving it (time is money, friend!) but I'm not sorry, I was having fun.
I started out printing without the heated bed using blue painter's tape wiped with alcohol, which worked great for the most part but was annoying to change out and couldn't prevent warping on some bigger parts, but I'm currently printing straight onto glass with a heated bed and a salt haze (Google it) to improve adhesion, and I keep a few old CPU heat radiators around to speed up post-printing bed cooldown.
I Am A…Engineer, Designer
Tools I Use…
Printers: AnyCubic Linear Kossel XL
Design Programs: Sketchup
3D Design Skill Level