This collection assumes that you have just bought an AnetA8 and want to upgrade it, without buying any extra hardware.

I also recommend that you print some of these parts before you install other hardware.

Edit: 31-08-2017:
These prints are very easy to print and can be printed in PLA without any issue. With a Stock AnetA8 I recommend that you first print at 30mm/s, and slowly try to up the speed by 10 or 5mm/s.
These prints use the extra bolts and nuts that you got with your 3dprinter. In my experience the spoolholder reduces inconsistent underextrusion. There is one here with 608/fidget spinner bearings but if you do not have these not use the Bolt Spoolholder. In my opinion the PLA linear bushings are very quiet and after a few months they still have very little play(wobble).
If you’ve installed most of the parts in this collection you will be able to push your printer to 60mm/s. If you go beyond 60mm/s you’ll risk getting warped circles in your prints. You’ll also rish getting a very wobbly printer when your printer carriage reaches a Z height of 10 centimetres.
The X carriage of the stock anet A8 is very heavy since it’s a direct drive extruder; with an aluminium L bracket, aluminium bushings, a stepper motor and an aluminium heatsink and aluminium filament drive assembly.
Besides that it’s horrible to tinker with, burned my fingers a few times when I tried to tighten the hex bolt under the carriage to secure the aluminium filament drive assembly.
In comparison: My stock AnetA8 X-carriage had a mass of 750 grams. My older e3d Bowden setup had a mass of 340 grams. My current X-carriage (the monolith, e3dV5, 3x50mm fans) has a mass of 470 grams.

When you’ve completed this collection, check out my ‘’advanced upgrades collection’’ which focuses around e3d hotends and printing ABS. The parts in the ‘’advanced collection’’ will allow you to print at 120mm/s.
If you’ve completed that one, take a look at my ‘’ printer-enclosure’’ collection, which focusses on getting even higher print speeds, stability and being able to print Nylon, PETG, POM (Acetal / Derlin) and Polycarbonate. All these filaments use temperature of 250 to 280 degrees, but need 300+ degrees to be printed successfully. In addition you’ll also need to have a hot heated bed ~120 degrees to prevent warping across the whole heated bed.
But for now, let’s stick to PLA. Use 180 to 220 degrees Celsius (Teflon degrades at 230 to 240 degrees! Mine did atleast. Spend hours unclogging it and had to buy new throats. (M6)) For the heated bed I have used temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees Celsius. Your stock PSU and board can handle this without being a fire hazard. Just check if you’ve screwed in everything correctly and tightly okay?

Never trust ‘’pre-assembled’’ stuff with Chinese packs. Also check your Stepper motor grub screws and tighten them more.

Oh and you can use this handy trick of mine: with the Z-rods aluminum spring bushing you’ll need to let the steppermotor pin go as far into the bushing as you see the less wide circle inside the bushing until these are about flush in height. Same goes for the Z-lead rod but that’s harder to see. If you’ve done this correctly, the top of the Z-Lead rod is flush with the top acrylic piece. You can install some prints that fill up that gap but I recommend and using a 608 bushing and a print from the ‘’Advanced’’ collection.

Printer parts: In order the order of making your life easier.

Extruder button.
Believe me, pressing on that that hex M3 screw hurts. It's also a very simple print.

The semi-circular is easier to print. The space ship is pretty cool and works very well.

If your spool does not roll correctly the extruder will pull and tug on the filament roll, and make the filament stay very tight. This could lead to your filament getting snagged by whatever is in the way. A spool holder and some guides will prevent this and will prevent underextrusion.
Print a spoolholder and a guide:

Filament Guides:
Just something to pull a string though. You can use some tape on the sides if you want to prevent the squeaking.

Filament Spool Clips:
This may sound trivial, but these are a must have. Ever had a wrongly coiled or twisted spool that got stuck and was pulled into your print ares? Like the whole 1kg spool on your heated bed and your printerhead screaming with skipped steps and a molten mess? Try to prevent that with these lovely pieces of plastic. Most broke on me, so I say which are recommended.

  • Spool Filament Holder Clip: by Wile, published Apr 18, 2017 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2255583 (recommended. Simple, slide it on and you can stretch it outward so you can push the filament in.
  • 1.75mm Filament Clip: by walter, published Jan 15, 2013 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42528 (NOT recommended. It’s nice that he has so many different variations, but these break very fast. Even with ABS with my very strong print settings. Also when you pull out your used filament it will always be larger than 1.75mm and it won’t fit into the hole of these holders. Besides that you’ll need a different clip for every frigging spool type.)

Y-belt tensioner:
If you don't tension it too tight then you do not need the front frame brace.
This design will prevent that the Y belt will swivel up and down. And maybe even to the left and right. It also features a plastic plate where you’ll use to screw up the pressure, which spreads that pressure over the black acrylic frame. I also added a Y-belt holder, since it spaces it correctly and the old Y belt holder was just very bad. And an Y rod holder piece, if you got unlucky and your rods are not the correct size.

X-axis tensioner:
So you do not have to take out the motor or use all your tie-rips.

Bed leveling Nuts:
Well actually not that needed but this can give stability and gives more easy of use. I hate wingnuts. There is a wingnut version and a version which uses a standard M3 nut in plastic. There are also two types of spring bushings, large ones and small ones.
FOR ALL THESE PRINTS: make the M3 holes bigger with a 3.2mm or 3.5mm drill bit, you do not want to plastic print to add resistance to your screw when you set your bed level. Or else the situation can occur that when you give the heated bed a tape, the plastic will let go and your bed will shift its leveling position. And screw up your first layer. I have had this many times before.

Z-Stop switch holder:
My Z switch is still bonkers because I cannot use any atm. But this design is nice.

so you do not pull on the springs or burn your fingers.

PLA linear bearing bushing blocks:
Quite a mouthful but these are like bronze bushing and Ingus bearings. Instead of grinding on metal balls it slides on plastic with some oil. Just oil them regularly. Mine still work but they tend to leave black residue.

Eventhough this is the most essential for the AnetA8 I kept it as last since all the previous prints will not exceed above 10cm. This is for a more stable Z axis in the height. Also surprisingly a very quick print: 4 plastic pieces, 4 bolts and nuts.