Oh, that's very nice! We had parts that looked just like that, but with two holes on the top, for an optical lens holder.
If you have access to it through the screen or through G-code (I don't have Sailfish), try knocking down your X/Y jerk value Start by halving it, then increasing. That should help with the ringing and maybe the bumps the walls (it could be sympathetic, but it looks like you have three layer walls, so more likely the the bumps are mechanically generated). I'm switching to polymer bearings over the weekend for the same reason. You might have noticed, when you had the extruder off, that the carriage wasn't all that tight against the rails (assuming you have the original linear bearings on). Mine chattered like crazy and some of the ball bearings were dirty, which makes carriage movement unclean.
If you get a chance, try HIPS and PCABS. I swear, no matter how good my PLA and ABS prints turned out, sending the same print but with HIPS or PCABS makes me think I have a new printer.
Oh, that's very nice! We had parts that looked just like that, but with two holes on the top, for an optical lens holder.
If you have access to it through the screen or through G-code (I don't have Sailfish), try knocking down your X/Y jerk value Start by halving it, then increasing. That should help with the ringing and maybe the bumps the walls (it could be sympathetic, but it looks like you have three layer walls, so more likely the the bumps are mechanically generated). I'm switching to polymer bearings over the weekend for the same reason. You might have noticed, when you had the extruder off, that the carriage wasn't all that tight against the rails (assuming you have the original linear bearings on). Mine chattered like crazy and some of the ball bearings were dirty, which makes carriage movement unclean.
If you get a chance, try HIPS and PCABS. I swear, no matter how good my PLA and ABS prints turned out, sending the same print but with HIPS or PCABS makes me think I have a new printer.
Great job!