The MKS TFT is 3.2" and the original is 3.5", also the SD card reader and USB port wouldn't line up so there would be a need to buy extenders.
I ended up replacing the blown fuse with an automotive fuse holder. It sounded easier to me than rewiring everything.
It is the same TriGorilla board as the Kossel BUT it is wired differently. The X/Y endstops, filament sensor, leveling sensor and extruder thermistor are wired directly to the adapter board instead of the main board. The Z endstop is way out in the left field, they have repurposed a random digital pin for it. The leveling sensor can be rerouted to the Z endstop pin to allow the use of REAL auto-leveling from the Marlin firmware, not the stupid piezo speaker. I used a buck converter to lower the signal from 12V to 5V.
Overall, with auto-leveling, magnetic removable bed coated in PEI, e3d V6 hotend, Titan extruder (not Bondtech), TMC2100 steppers (not 2130), 0.9 degrees motors, polymer bearings and Noctua fans, my printer almost has the same specs (ON PAPER) as the Original Prusa i3 MK3.