Check out a couple of youtube channels: Makers Muse, 3d Printing Nerd, and CNC Kitchen
All 3 have done videos on various different techniques for improving print quality, speed, strength, and appearance.
While the question you are asking seems simple, the answer is not. Print time is a compromise between many variables, in short, yes you can put a 0.8mm nozzle on it, print at the max temp for the material, or slightly higher, and put your layer height to about a 0.4mm layer height, it will look like a small child molded it out of clay, but your print will be done much quicker. You could just do it in vase mode if you are looking to have it pretty, but no structural integrity, and there is always the option of making the print actually a mold for another medium, so you could then print it once, and use that mold to cast many others of the same things. It really comes down to what your printer is capable of, what the requirements are of your printer and material you are using, and what is expected of the resulting product. I just finished a 4 part print, which is a WWII Jeep shell for an R/C car I have, each part took about 18h, and then I had to glue them all together. so that was really 4 days worth of printing. The end result is in line with what I was needing for my purposes, I am now printing 15 piece enclosure and mounting system for a solar-powered 360-degree trail camera network which consists of 4 cameras, 4 motion sensors, one raspberry pi running MotionEye OS, and an old router to connect them all in the field. the cameras and sensors will be in their own cases and those cases placed within a housing. The housing will have hoods over each camera and sensor group, pointing in 4 different directions, and a roof over the top. All of that roughly 80mm cube will be mounted on top of a gimbal system to provide a stable operating platform. The gimbal is placed atop a tripod made of poles with a counter ballast suspended below the gimbal. All of that will run off of the 50W solar panel, and 2 batteries, to provide adequate DC power for the whole system. 12V 1A for the router, 5V3A for the RPI, 5V500mA for each camera and sensor. It will have a nominal pull of 37W, allowing the 50W panel to recharge the batteries during the day, and discharge them overnight. The RPI will monitor the 4 video streams and record motion from each of the streams based on changes in the frames fed to it. the sensors will be used to turn on the camera's flash, when motion is detected during the night. This project will be only about 42h worth of printing total.
Check out a couple of youtube channels: Makers Muse, 3d Printing Nerd, and CNC Kitchen
All 3 have done videos on various different techniques for improving print quality, speed, strength, and appearance.
While the question you are asking seems simple, the answer is not. Print time is a compromise between many variables, in short, yes you can put a 0.8mm nozzle on it, print at the max temp for the material, or slightly higher, and put your layer height to about a 0.4mm layer height, it will look like a small child molded it out of clay, but your print will be done much quicker. You could just do it in vase mode if you are looking to have it pretty, but no structural integrity, and there is always the option of making the print actually a mold for another medium, so you could then print it once, and use that mold to cast many others of the same things. It really comes down to what your printer is capable of, what the requirements are of your printer and material you are using, and what is expected of the resulting product. I just finished a 4 part print, which is a WWII Jeep shell for an R/C car I have, each part took about 18h, and then I had to glue them all together. so that was really 4 days worth of printing. The end result is in line with what I was needing for my purposes, I am now printing 15 piece enclosure and mounting system for a solar-powered 360-degree trail camera network which consists of 4 cameras, 4 motion sensors, one raspberry pi running MotionEye OS, and an old router to connect them all in the field. the cameras and sensors will be in their own cases and those cases placed within a housing. The housing will have hoods over each camera and sensor group, pointing in 4 different directions, and a roof over the top. All of that roughly 80mm cube will be mounted on top of a gimbal system to provide a stable operating platform. The gimbal is placed atop a tripod made of poles with a counter ballast suspended below the gimbal. All of that will run off of the 50W solar panel, and 2 batteries, to provide adequate DC power for the whole system. 12V 1A for the router, 5V3A for the RPI, 5V500mA for each camera and sensor. It will have a nominal pull of 37W, allowing the 50W panel to recharge the batteries during the day, and discharge them overnight. The RPI will monitor the 4 video streams and record motion from each of the streams based on changes in the frames fed to it. the sensors will be used to turn on the camera's flash, when motion is detected during the night. This project will be only about 42h worth of printing total.