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You're welcome, of course. I only have a couple of things to add, and I don't know whether they will be useful to you. If not, disregard them. I won't defend them to anyone, except by saying that I've tried a lot of methods. I always use a sharp putty knife to remove prints. It's not razor sharp, but pretty close. I start with the very corner tip, and work the blade underneath the print as gently as possible. Sometimes it's necessary to run the corner of the knife rapidly along an edge several times using very little pressure before it can begin to slide underneath. I only very rarely try to remove a print without it. I rely greatly on the putty knife, but I'm very careful with it. It's dangerous. Always push away from any part of your body. Keep all fingers behind it, always. I haven't cut myself with mine, but that's only because I didn't learn 3D printing until I was already old.

If the build surface is not absolutely rigid like glass, there's always the risk of a gouge or a cut. One thing that is frequently reliable is to heat the bed in order to remove prints, even up to 100° C or 110. Or if the build surface is flexible, you can remove the entire thing and chill it or just bend it. I rarely do either of those things, I try the putty knife first. I don't think I ever tried chilling the build surface, even when it was the soft surface provided with FlashForge printers, although those are normally affixed permanently to the heat bed. I generally use a glass plate for my build surface, either that or the PEI sheet that I've affixed to the opposite side for convenience. When the original FlashForge surface became too heavily damaged and covered in adhesive, I removed 100% of it and substituted the glass. I've been meaning to try some garolite, but haven't yet. The PEI sheet sometimes allows prints to stick without adhesive. Light sanding between prints is recommended to keep the surface fresh, but I always wipe with alcohol afterwards. I never rely on bare glass to make prints stick unless I'm printing with TPU or other flexible filament. A tiny amount of baby powder can be used to keep flexible materials from adhering too severely. I don't know anyone who does 3D printing who doesn't keep a can of Aqua Net nearby. Or a stick of Elmer's Craft Bond or similar, or both. I use both. For PLA I normally use Aqua Net quite sparingly. One can has lasted me for years. I don't use it for each print, but I do try to wipe down the build surface with alcohol on a paper towel before each print. Quite often that leaves enough adhesive from the last print to help it stick. If the adhesive accumulates too heavily, I use alcohol as a solvent and I scrape it off with the putty knife, or if it's bad enough, or if the plate is heavily scarred from using the knife, I replace it with a new one.