Recent Topics

Need Help printing correctly

by WyoJohnGalt

I need some serious help. I have had this printer for several months and have yet to get it to print correctly. I am about to throw it out the window. It is an Anet A6. I am using PLA. The print in the pictures was done with an extruder temp of 205. Bed temp of 55. Estep at 100. Please help!!

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PrusaSlicer on A6

by Dome_


since prusaslicer's new update allows you to use the slicer for our A6,
has anyone tried it yet?

Maybe we could use the comments under this post to share our experiences (settings, what to avoid, ...)?

I'll try it on the weekend and comment what I found out.

anet_a6 PrusaSlicer
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Power supply Case measurements, and screw location measurements?

by reedk106

anyone know these specs? I cant find info online anywhere, I could measure it myself but I would like to be as accurate as possible

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X/Y Orthogonality

by bjcosta

I have a problem that prints are not orthogonal on the X/Y axis. I created a test object for this, and have found that the x/y axis are not at 90 degrees. I don't have a protractor on me to measure actual angle but my tri-square shows 2 or 3 mm deviation over the 15cm test print. This makes it unsuitable for some of the tasks I have been trying to use it for.

I have attached the test stl I created for this.

Any idea where to start trying to fix this problem?

I have been searching for info for a while and not found much. I was considering rebuilding the whole frame again but wonder if anyone has pointers on things to try before going that far.


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Tutorial for 3 point bed leveling on Anet A6

by claus57

I want to describe you my personal project of 3 points bed leveling for my Anet A6.
I read as much as possible on the web about this argument before starting to put hands on the printer and if you are reading this post I can suppose you know the argument of discussion.
Finally I think I can say I found a simple way to mod the printer with a better leveling system.
To reduce friction I also changed heated bed support guide system, mounting 3 linear bearing instead of 4.
Some material and manual skills are required for the mod.
1 X heated bed support
3 X linear bearings (optional)
12 X screws M410 mm
3 X screws M3
10 mm
2 X ball heads https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B0834LB2X5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 X aluminum blocks 10x10x9 mm
Epoxy Glue https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01GUBDPRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
M3 hand thread taper

First of all 2 apparently obvious recommendation: use a drop of middle threadlocker on screws and pay attention to orientation of the new bed support to avoid mistakes as I did :)
Let’s start preparing the swivel joint between the heated bed and his support.
It’s better to shorten a little the head, in this way we can continue to use the original leveling screws. If we leave the ball heads as they are, leveling screws will become short and have to be substitute.
Then we cut an M3 mm screw to obtain the inner rod to join the two ball heads.
Next step is creating 2 little aluminum blocks 10109 mm cutting them from a bar. Great precision is NOT required.
We make a 2,5 mm hole on the center of narrow face and then we thread the hole with a M3*0,5 mm taper.

Next step is to glue with the epoxy glue the 2 blocks on the lower face of the heated bed and the heated bed support.
Due to the limited space available we will glue the blocks 5 mm from the edges. This position obliges us to create a recess on the heated bed support for the swivel joint pass. You can use a file or a Dremel.
Using the new bed support old screws become too much short, so now we can mount the 3 linear bearing on heated bed support using 12 M4x10 screws. I recommend to refresh the holes on support with a 4,5 mm drill, in this way you will have some play to adapt bearings, rods and support between themselves.
First mount bearing blocks on rods, then start to tight progressively the M4*10 screws moving the heated bed support verifying friction.
Next step is mounting heated bed.
I don’t use spring on leveling wheels, I prefer to use 2 wheels for every level point. I think it’s a more solid and stable solution but you make as you prefer.
Now connect the swivel joint to the blocks with 2 M3x10 screws and so we are able to proceed to a first raw leveling.
First of all we measure the distance between the upper face of heated plate and the lower face of heated bed support on the swivel join point. This is the fix referring point. A caliper is comfortable but also a ruler can be used. Then we adjust this measure on the other 2 leveling points using the leveling wheels.
Next step is the fine leveling of the bed. You will apply the usual leveling procedure with the sheet of paper starting from the referring point on swivel join and then on the other 2 leveling points.
I found this operation really more easier, fast and accurate than the usual 4 points one and it worked like a charm.
I’m very satisfied of the result, I’s relatively simply and easy to realize and It’s a clear work.
I hope that this tutorial could help some reader.

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