Recent Topics


by brugghh

Recently my extruder has been making popping sounds and this is causing holes. I've tried altering my temps and double checked that my nozzle wasn't clogged but it's still occurring. I've even tried changing filaments but still pops. Does anyone have any ideas?

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Honest Experienced Opinions Wanted

by MakeItMakeItMakeIt

I'm in the process of building my AM8-BLV-MGN12.
When it comes to extruders, I only have familiarity with the DD extruder currently on my Maker Select V2.

What do you knowledgeable folks out there recommend for an extruder for my new rig: Direct Drive or Bowden?
I comprehend the added weight of a DD, and also realize that there are other issues to contend with when going Bowden.
I have no experience with a Bowden, so I can't speak about those, only that I've read that they exist.
This is why I'm asking.

So what is the the best way to go here, or is it just one of those "personal" choices?

I can (and feel it would be fine) to mod the A8 extruder by cutting/trimming the mount plate to have it emulate the mount plate on my Maker AND to mount to an MGN12 carriage, and then replace the lever and hot end with some Micro Swiss gear as I did on the Maker.
OR, I could go the Titan Aero way, OR go E3D V6 with a Bowden drive.

Too many choices, not enough knowledge/experience.

So what's the general/personal consensus out there?

Thanks in advance for all who chime in.

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Anet A8 (with original extruder) gives unusable prints

by D_Stultiens

Hi guys,

I'm happily printing with my Anet A8 for almost a year. It was really providing nice prints and I was really enjoying it. Last month, I didn't use it. Now I want to fire it up again and the prints it is making, are really rubbish. The quality is unusable. I have attached some examples with this post. It seems not able to print a solid wall / line.

What I have noticed until now;

  • The first lines are not nice lines, but blobs in a row
  • Inside the printhead (where the stepper motor drive is pushing the filament into the PFTE tube) there are filament shavings. So I expected there is some resistance
  • The printer does not seem to be able to extrude properly.

What I have tried until now;

  • brand new filament roll
  • new nozzle
  • new feeder tube (the tube with the PFTE inside between drive and nozzle)
  • disassembled the entire extruder (found that the thermometer was detached from the extruder)
  • checked if the wheel on the stepper motor that pushes the filament into the extruder is properly fixed to the stepper motor axis.
  • Printed at a higher temperature

Maybe there is something broken because of the thermometer that was detached what heated it up to much.

I already have ordered a e3D V6 extruder. But I have to print a few parts to be able to mount this new extruder.

Can someone help me in my search for the cause? Thank you in advance!

Kind regards,


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Z offset after zeroing?

by freedomlives

I just got a PEI sheet from eBay and put it on the hot bed. Kind of hard so far to get PLA off from it, and now I want to print some ASA. So I'm thinking safer is to print on glass. So i wonder if there is some way to zero the printer, put in a z-offset equal to glass thickness, then clip on the glass sheet and print.

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Power Control

by CAP1Sup

I want to control the power wirelessly with OctoPrint. I was wondering how many amps the relay should be rated for. I have a 10 amp 120v relay. Will this be enough or do I need a relay with more amps?

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