Problem with 3D Touch probe

by Guitarman1

Hi there everyone. I am desperately looking for help. I have installed a BL-Touch Clone - the Geeetech 3DTouch. I have followed instructions for wiring and Marlin 2.0 configuration to the letter. When I start my printer the probe blue LED is on. When I send the GCode commands to stow or deploy the probe, or use the commands on the display, nothing happens. When I command the probe to deploy the blue light turns off, then nothing happens. I tried resetting and adjusting the screw but nothing happens. I have watched videos and read posts but cannot find a solution. Am I maybe doing something wrong? Is there someone that had the same problem and fixed it? Thank you for your help in advance.

View Comment

program board with arduino

by ipt


i have an A8 board(A:1284-Base- on the top right it says V1-5.)

i dont want to use it as a printer, just to control the motors with it via arduino IDE.

Is there a good source where i can find a pinout and explanation wich pins are connected to what ?

View Comment

Help! My Prints are Delaminating

by m0hkg

I'm just about ready to throw in the towel on 3D printing - if it's not one thing, it's another :0(

I have an AM8 with a SKR1.3, TMC2209 drivers and 3D Touch sensor running with the latest Marlin 2.0.x.

I've been through all sorts of issues, and after much tweaking and tuning, I thought I'd cracked it when the 20mm test cube printed perfectly earlier today.

However, after printing the top of the display/keypad case this afternoon the d@mn thing delaminated as soon as I took it off the bed.

I'm printing PLA at 205 degrees C on a bed that's 60 degrees C with a 0.2mm later height on a 0.4mm nozzle at a 60mm/s print speed. Infill was 20% on this job, but I'm not sure that matters as the edges have also delaminated - these were 0.8mm.

Granted, the PLA is a couple of years old but i've just tried printing again with new PLA I got from Prusa and it's the same problem.

I think I have enough 'squish' when I start the job - perhaps too much, but squish between layers should give better adhesion right?

Can anyone point me in the right direction to crack this problem so I can enjoy prints that don't fall apart?

Thanks in advance!


AM8 delamination PLA
View Comment

Autolevel with marlin crash

by 5ft24

Have my A8 running Marlin, and all is well and good. Configured for bilinear bed leveling. Most of the time, it runs perfect, However, sometimes it will be in the middle of the G29, and not at the same point, the head will just keep heading down. you can see the light in the sensor come on, but it keeps going. have to power it off to stop it. When I power it back up, I relevel the X, relevel the bed, redo the Z offset, and all is fine. It may do it the next part, or not until after 5 or 6 more.
Running Octoprint on a Pi 3
Sensor is the 18mm inductive.
Firmware is Marlin from the Skynet github, 1.1.3 (Latest there). I have even re-pulled the firmware, re-compiled and re-flashed the board.
Any ideas?

View Comment

Anet a8 X axis shift on pause

by Cromlyngames

If I use the firmware pause print, the bed rolls forward, the z axis raises and the print head moves to the X origin. Well, past it I think. On resume I have a 3-4mm X axis offset. I'm printing a bowl that fills the print area so quite easy to see X Vs y.

I'm aware of the front screw catching the bed issue for y offset, and this is not that.

I think what is happening is different behaviour when homing and pausing. When homing the head moves until the switch clicks closed, and then moves out again until it opens. On pause it just moved until the switch closes but then does not move out again. This could explain it, but it would give me a 3mm shift towards the origin. The thing is, the offset in the print occurs in the opposite direction!

The offset appears to be a once only consistent thing, so as long as I pause and resume at the start of the print I don't need to worry about it. Bit of a faff though.

Any ideas?

pause troubleshooting
View Comment

help please anet a6

by killerkane

I've been trying to get my d3 printer running again for ever now and the only thing i need now is the coding which I have very little experience with I'm hoping there's someone on here kind enough to help me set up the programing for the upgrades I've made to the printer its an anet a2 running marlin 2.0

anet_a6 e3d-titan E3D_v6 Help marlin_firmware
View Comment

Smoked Power Supply (it's kinda like smoked salmon)

by Joe_cool3

Hello Thingiversers,

I have had my A8 Clone for 4 years and printed hundreds of hours. Finally, I believe I somehow fried my power supply. Hopefully my thoroughness (longwindedness) anticipates questions more than it scares away readers...


  • Alunar M508 Kit
  • AC 110/220V (set to US 110V)
  • DC 12V
  • Bed power supplied by MOSFET
  • 12V heating element in E3D V6 clone
  • 12V PC fan cooling PSU
  • Custom PSU mounting bracket (PSU sits horizontally and of course collects lots of dust, "yikes" now that I think about it...)

Happenings and occurrences:

  • My printer had been sitting plugged directly into the wall (was not plugged into a surge protector as it usually is) with the switch powered off for a few weeks as it usually is during busy college semesters. I have used it a little within these past few months.

  • Earlier the same day as the incident, my apartment experienced a brief power outage, lasted 30 seconds or so.
  • Roughly 2 hours later I set up to get a print going and flipped the power switch "on".
  • If I remember correctly I believe I heard my printer power on, noticeable by the sound the heatsink fan turning on (if I recall correctly).
  • My PSU fan did not immediately spin to life like usual, but jittered a little in place, possibly made a small unusual noise, maybe a little whining.
  • Not thinking anything of it, I spun the blades manually to get it up and going (pretty sure I would have spun it in the "correct" direction), but it did not maintain any powered rotation.
  • Almost immediately after that, I saw {a small amount of} light-grey smoke emanat{ing} from around the top and front side of the PSU - the side closest to all the wiring - from between some perforations in the metal casing and the gaps in my printed mounting bracket.
  • "No-no-no".
  • As soon as I saw the smoke I pulled the C13 power cable out of its respective port to the PSU.
  • All this must have happened in a matter of less than 5 seconds.
  • I went back after a couple minutes (probably waited that long because of pure shock, pun intended [though thankfully didn't actually shock myself :P]) and scanned the exterior with my basic IR temperature gun and found a temperature reading of 2C higher than room temp, again, at the front side near the wiring.
  • I checked the power switch fuse, external to the PSU, looked fine.

That's what I gathered and that's about all I know. My lingering suspicion is that the combination of the power outage and the direct-wall power connection has something to do with it although dust is a possibility as I doubt I've cleaned the PSU and fan within a couple years. The power outage explanation doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. The printer was off during the outage, circuit into the PSU open.

It's up to YOU to help me find out the issue. Only YOU can help prevent printer fires. I want YOU for U.S. [3DPrinterTroubleShootingHelpAssistance].
I.E. how do y'all interpret this issue and how should I go about investigating it?
I do not presently have access to a multimeter (nor the time to investigate during these last couple weeks including finals) but can investigate fully when I return home and I would appreciate any help I can get.

My aim is to (if practical):

  • Find out the cause so I can set up protections to help keep it from happening.
  • Investigate my printer itself (mainboard, heating elements, etc.) to find out 1) if anything else is damaged and 2) how to keep from damaging whatever parts still work during investigation. (e.g. Think it makes sense to completely disconnect the printer from the PSU to start with)

Supporting pictures:

  • Main view: shows overall setup; PSU bracket has lid removed.
  • Fan top-down view: red sketch highlights where I think I remember smoke coming from.
  • Wiring top-down view: shows my general wiring setup. Has worked gorgeously for the couple years since I last modified it. Yellow sketch highlights roughly the location of the +2C temperature reading.
  • Power cable view: C13 power cable with dramatic focus on wall plug.

Thanks for anything.
-Jonathan Wever

issue Issues power_supply PSU smoke
View Comment

Bed leveling

by jacky_joe

Hi guys
A month ago I have installed a bed leveling sensor into my Anet A8, I followed a tutorial on YouTube and set everything up. Since then, it was working fine until yesterday. I was about to print a large object (not the 1st time) and after the auto bed leveling the distance of the nozzle to the bed was great in the front but the back the nozzle hits the bed and no filament is allowed to come out. Thus, I had to level it manually while printing which was frustrating, I mean I know that the bed is wrapped and that's why I installed the sensor in the first place.

I'm trying to print some parts for my graduation project and I can't get this thing to work as it supposed to be. Each time I level it manually the filament does not stick properly in some areas

I will appreciate any help

View Comment