General

Hello, I have had my Anet A8 for some years and while I have made many modifications I have never worried about replacing the LCD with a 12864 as used in the A6. I notice now however the installed LCD is getting a bit fuzzy on the edges so would like to upgrade to a new LCD. My problem is the A6 12864 that was used by many to upgrade the A8 is very difficult to find and buy.
There are plenty of 12864 LCD available but they all seem to be for different boards than what I have installed. My board is an AT Mega 1284P-Anet 3d V1-5.
Can any one suggest a suitable LCD that might suit my board and if necessary any extraordinary installation process I will need to go through that are different than installing the A6 LCD on the A8.
Sure hope someone can help as I fear I am on borrowed time with my current LCD.

I missed part of the VS code error message. (I have been using VS code for my anet a8 for last two years and now I can't). The complete error message is
Building in release mode
*** [Marlin\src\HAL\AVR\HAL.cpp] E:\Marlin-2.0.x (1)\Marlin-2.0.x.pio\build\sanguino1284p_optimized.sconsign39.dblite: No such file or directory

Again, any suggestions?

I have been using VS code to handle firmware changes on my Anet a8 for the past 2 year. My last attempt to make a change resulted in this error message *** [.pio\build\sanguino1284p\src\src\lcd\marlinui.cpp.o] Error 1.

The only change made to my computer since the last time VScode worked was moving from Windows 10 to Windows 11.

Any suggestions?

I know this topic is probably beating the proverbial dead horse with a stick, but these group pages seem to be broken for me. I can't view any group posts beyond page one. Any method I attempt to move to page two or beyond just keeps pulling up the same page one of threads. I seem to recall the same issue last time I tried to use these forums a few years, a different computer, different browser (I've tried chrome, firefox, brave, and edge), and different ISP ago. I'll post about that in the site issues section for help, but hopefully I'll actually be able to see replies to this thread and keep up with this.

EDIT: Hope external links aren't breaking the rules.

I've got an Anet A8 that was assembled from a box of parts I got second hand. First and only 3D printer. I've had it set up and working good enough for a few years, but haven't used it a lot and after initial setup never had to mess with it much. Getting the itch to start messing with tweaking things on it again. Know it's stupid since it works, but I basically want to overhaul it into an AM8 with some upgrades.

What I bought ($100) included:

• Anet A8 (in pieces)
• Anet3D main board running Skynet3D 2.3.2
• 2x 25-30w power supplies
• E3D V6 hot end and incomplete stock extruder assembly
• Y-belt tensioner

Got it up and running with the help of a X carriage printed by a co-worker at the time.

I added (in no particular order):

• IEC320 power supply switch
• Mosfets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for Extruder and Hot - Bed
• Soldered hotbed connector
• X-belt tensioner (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2314990 I think)
• T bracing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959)
• Lower Corner bracing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105106 & https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105996)
• Igus bearings in Y-axis due to bearing failure. (Have for Y but never installed)
• 1 piece Y-carriage plate
• UHNanobot's X-carriage (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2683888) for the E3D V6 hotend, was quicker and easier than messing with firmware
• Bowden extruder
  <Probably other things I'm forgetting>

I also bought a BLTouch to setup auto-leveling, but never got around to redoing x-carriage and installing it.

So I plan to order an all metal AM8 kit this weekend. I know I could save a little by printing most of the bracketry and cutting my own 2040, but I want to buy an all metal kit. It will also be installed in an enclosure rather than open on the desk like it is now. That's for a few reasons. One, it's taking up desk space. Two, I think more stable temperature will help with prints, I think my prints sometimes suffer due to drafts and cool room temps. Three, I think it'll make for a cleaner, tidier, and better contained installation. I'm not sure if it will be a Lack enclosure, or I'll come up with something more portable. Possibly not at first, but I intend to incorporate some lighting, some temperature control (heat & fans), and much neater electronics mounting and wire routing than I currently have.

I also want to replace/upgrade to a more capable main board and newer supported firmware (probably Marlin 2.0?). The options have me confused. I know back when I got this printer a Ramps (1.4?) was the big thing for upgrades, but I wasn't interested at the time. That was almost 4 years ago now. I'm sure things have advanced since then, newer, better, and faster. I read about several versions of MKS and SKR, but I can't really make out the differences, which is "better" or "easier". All of these seem to have about the same capability and compatability to my novice eyes. I like that the SKR's have two Z motor headers.

-MKS Gen L V2.0
-SKR 2
-SKR Mini E3 V3.0

One thing that I think I get is that RAMPS requires an additional Arduino board, where MKS/SKR have it built in. I also understand that two these boards (Ramps too) require additional drivers for the stepper motors, it sounds like these setups run smoother and quieter than stock board which will be nice. I see a lot of stepper driver models, but I don't really understand the differences. Seems like TCM2209 might be the one to use. The SKR Mini has them built in, and a lot lower price. On the flip side if I get a bad driver with the other two I can replace a driver rather than the whole main board.

FWIW, I also intend to upgrade LCD from the Anet 5 button when I upgrade the main board.

Thoughts, suggestions, advice? I can gurantee that I'll read it (if I see it), can't gurantee that I'll like or agree with it. I'm sure the best option would be to just buy a better off the shelf printer, but that's not going to happen. As I told a buddy the other day, I won't buy another printer for $300, but I'll spend $500 (maybe not all at once) to make my existing printer almost as good.

I guess when it's all over I'm practically building a whole new printer, planning to reuse a few parts, but it wouldn't take much more pieces to just have a new printer. For now I want persue this as an upgrading my existing printer, and if it happens to switch over to building a second, so be it. When/if that happens, I'll buy a few motors, a few switches, an extruder and a hot end.

Hello dear community,

I need help for my master thesis. I am examining explorative behavior on Thingiverse and how it is influenced by personality traits. Therefore I generated an online questionnaire.

I would be very happy if you could take 5-10 minutes to complete my survey:
https://www.survio.com/survey/d/R8H4P8K2X9K1M4B0B

Many thanks in advance!

Best regards
Gamze

Hello Thingiversers,

I have had my A8 Clone for 4 years and printed hundreds of hours. Finally, I believe I somehow fried my power supply. Hopefully my thoroughness (longwindedness) anticipates questions more than it scares away readers...

Specs:

• Alunar M508 Kit
• AC 110/220V (set to US 110V)
• DC 12V
• Bed power supplied by MOSFET
• 12V heating element in E3D V6 clone
• 12V PC fan cooling PSU
• Custom PSU mounting bracket (PSU sits horizontally and of course collects lots of dust, "yikes" now that I think about it...)

Happenings and occurrences:

• My printer had been sitting plugged directly into the wall (was not plugged into a surge protector as it usually is) with the switch powered off for a few weeks as it usually is during busy college semesters. I have used it a little within these past few months.

• Earlier the same day as the incident, my apartment experienced a brief power outage, lasted 30 seconds or so.
• Roughly 2 hours later I set up to get a print going and flipped the power switch "on".
• If I remember correctly I believe I heard my printer power on, noticeable by the sound the heatsink fan turning on (if I recall correctly).
• My PSU fan did not immediately spin to life like usual, but jittered a little in place, possibly made a small unusual noise, maybe a little whining.
• Not thinking anything of it, I spun the blades manually to get it up and going (pretty sure I would have spun it in the "correct" direction), but it did not maintain any powered rotation.
• Almost immediately after that, I saw {a small amount of} light-grey smoke emanat{ing} from around the top and front side of the PSU - the side closest to all the wiring - from between some perforations in the metal casing and the gaps in my printed mounting bracket.
• "No-no-no".
• As soon as I saw the smoke I pulled the C13 power cable out of its respective port to the PSU.
• All this must have happened in a matter of less than 5 seconds.
• I went back after a couple minutes (probably waited that long because of pure shock, pun intended [though thankfully didn't actually shock myself :P]) and scanned the exterior with my basic IR temperature gun and found a temperature reading of 2C higher than room temp, again, at the front side near the wiring.
• I checked the power switch fuse, external to the PSU, looked fine.

That's what I gathered and that's about all I know. My lingering suspicion is that the combination of the power outage and the direct-wall power connection has something to do with it although dust is a possibility as I doubt I've cleaned the PSU and fan within a couple years. The power outage explanation doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. The printer was off during the outage, circuit into the PSU open.

It's up to YOU to help me find out the issue. Only YOU can help prevent printer fires. I want YOU for U.S. [3DPrinterTroubleShootingHelpAssistance].
I.E. how do y'all interpret this issue and how should I go about investigating it?
I do not presently have access to a multimeter (nor the time to investigate during these last couple weeks including finals) but can investigate fully when I return home and I would appreciate any help I can get.

EDIT:
{
My aim is to (if practical):

• Find out the cause so I can set up protections to help keep it from happening.
• Investigate my printer itself (mainboard, heating elements, etc.) to find out 1) if anything else is damaged and 2) how to keep from damaging whatever parts still work during investigation. (e.g. Think it makes sense to completely disconnect the printer from the PSU to start with)
  }

Supporting pictures:

• Main view: shows overall setup; PSU bracket has lid removed.
• Fan top-down view: red sketch highlights where I think I remember smoke coming from.
• Wiring top-down view: shows my general wiring setup. Has worked gorgeously for the couple years since I last modified it. Yellow sketch highlights roughly the location of the +2C temperature reading.
• Power cable view: C13 power cable with dramatic focus on wall plug.

Thanks for anything.
-Jonathan Wever

I've been trying to get my new printer working. Everything else seems fine, but I don't get the print file option.
I tried selecting SD card -> Mount card, but all I get is a slight whirring from the fans.

Before this I had the stock PSU die on me. I wired an ATX PSU on it's place. Idk if that might have damaged the motherboard or something..

Any ideas?

EDIT: Well, I messaged the company I bought the printer from and they agreed to send me a new motherboard.

Please see the attached photo. I have no idea how this happens. I have checked the G-code from the logs and it does not show anything untoward. I have also lubricated both Z-axes on the printer (it has been upgraded to have two). This has happened twice now at the same height, Luckily I was sitting in the lab when this happened and I could hear the print snap. Any ideas on how to prevent this would be appreciated.

is anyone using klipper on their anet a8? i have been running it for about a week now and the prints and speed are great but i am having a major issue with the board over heating. mostly the hotend mosfet. after around 2 days of printing and getting failed prints around 30% just due to the hot end loosing power and klipper shutting the printer down. i checked the board after the failed prints and the mosfet for the hotend was too hot too touch, adding a fan would allow a print to finish but on day 3 the hotend would not get above 45c.

i pulled the board and did some testing to find out the mosfet failed. after replacing it with one from a parts board its up and running again, i also changed to the stock heating element thinking that maybe the new one was pulling too much power but no change. still fails to complete a print without a fan on the board so i know a failure of the fet is going to happen again.

this printer never had an issue with stock firmware. i also installed a v6 clone around the same time but it is using the same element as the stock hotend. I have ran the PID calibration also so thats all done.

any ideas on why the mosfet is being pushed so hard before i just flash back to the stock firmware?