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Reputable Replacement Parts?

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Can someone post a link to a reputable source (preferably on Amazon) for aluminum blocks, nozzles, and tubes?

I tightened my nozzle and tube down as much as I can and I'm still getting leakage on the top of the aluminum block.

BTW, just want to make sure I have this correct - it basically goes nozzle, block, tube, and then there is a nut on the tube. That nut screws up against the carriage correct?

The batch I got from the links I posted must be a bad batch. I replaced the nozzle, tube, and aluminum block. I took a file to the tube and nozzle to make sure they were flat and butted against each other really well. I screwed in the nozzle all the way, then screwed in the tube all the way. Backed the nozzle off a half turn and then screwed the tube in against it again. Then screwed the nozzle back tight. Heated it all up and tightned it down again. Yet I'm STILL getting leakage.

Rat_steve.... I purchased that previously and had no problems with it until it clogged. I don't really want to but a bunch of these as I don't need the extra heating element and temp sensors lying around.

Can always trying wrapping the threads with some plumbers pipe tape. Just don't let it get into the filament path. It won't melt.

It's important the throat pipe and nozzle meet in the middle of the block, so don't screw the nozzle all the way in, leave a couple of turns for tightening. You need to grip the block with something, plumber's grips or a big pair of pliers, and tighten the nozzle while the hot end is up to temperature.

If you still got a leak then look at the mating surfaces of nozzle and throat pipe, file them flat if needed.

I buy nozzles in bulk, 10 at a time, I just get the cheapest from China. When my prints start to get a bit rough I change the nozzle. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401213418868?var=670795310240

Throat pipes should last forever, but the PTFE lining needs replacing from time to time, just buy a metre and cut off what you need. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142499396152

Good to have a spare or two though! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401365502939?var=670987476096

I purchased these blocks from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G1JWKQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but the issue I have with them is there is only a single set screw on the bottom for the heating element, the hole for the temp sensor is threaded and had to be drilled smooth to fit the sensor.

The tubes and nozzles I got were these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JC68S5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't mind them except for the aforementioned leaking. I did what everyone described but still getting leakage. Also when I screw the tube into the extruder and then screw the nut tight, the aluminum block still spins / isn't locked down tight.

If the block still spins, you need to screw the tube in more with the nozzle loosed up. Then tighten the nozzle.

I think the Anet A8 uses mk8 extruder parts. Hopefully someone here will know specifics for Amazon. I think the normal process is to screw the nozzle all the way into the heater block and then unscrew it a quarter turn. Next screw in the throat tube tight on the other side of the heater block. Then the nozzle is tightened back in that last bit of a turn to make a solid seal between the throat tube and the nozzle inside the heater block.

The other end of the throat tube screws into the bottom of the aluminium aluminium part and then is secured against the bottom of the metal carriage using the nut you mentioned.

number40Fan's comment about an extra tightening of the nozzle at temperature is also a good one as a final step. Metal parts will expand at temperature so tightening at this point will help ensure that the throat and nozzle are making good contact when heated.

Also note that there are some variations of the mk 8 parts with different hole positions etc.

You have everything in the right order, but it is best to screw the tube into the block with the nozzle already tightened. Once the tube hits the nozzle, loosen the nozzle a 1/4 turn. Tighten tube to hit the nozzle again, then tighten the nozzle. Warm up the hotend and tighten the nozzle one more time.