Build surface upgrade

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I've upgraded my machine heavily. I have the SKR 1.4 Turbo, TMC2209's, Drylin bearing, matching GATES fibre reinforced belts, pulleys & idlers on X & Y, BMG extruder, V6 hotend - the list goes on. I've seen some nice improvements in my print quality as a result but there is a noticeable difference with ghosting on the X & Y axis and after checking for vibrations & belt tensions etc I believe about the only way to get much more of an improvement with this is to upgrade my build surface from a glass surface to save weight.
I've been looking at various flexible systems and more recently polypropylene but one thing I can't seem to get any information about these is about the weight. My guess would be that given there're no magnets etc, the polypropylene will be the most lightweight but it's only a guess and it's still a relatively new surface to work with so I can't see very many reviews on it.
I'm just wondering if any of you guys have any experience with these or can point me in the direction of specifications that include weight?

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hi. I also bought a 1.4 turbo to apply to my anet.
Can you share the configuration.h?

Here you go.
Be aware, I couldn't get the stock screen to work with it. I spoke with tech support and they couldn't figure it out either. I went with a 7" TFT at that point but TBH I run pretty much everything through Octoprint with a Raspberry Pi 4B instead.
Be aware of the upgrades I've made:

RPi 4B
SKR 1.4T & TMC2209's
7" TFT (optional)

Custom x-carriage with the following:
Bondtech BMG extruder
E3D V6 hot end
Software endstopping on x & y

Keep these in mind because you'll have to tweak anything that doesn't match up to my hardware or you could damage your machine. I found this guide very helpful to fine tune the settings once I had the firmware reasonably close to how I wanted it.

SKR 1.3 or 1.4 & MKS SGEN L Board Setup Tutorial with TMC2208 UART

You could make it a 3DLS if you want to go full send!

I use a generic ender3 build sheet on glass. You can skip the glass and put the sheet right on aluminum to save weight, I did this on my CR-10 S5 before it got leadscrews too.

I obviously gave up on belts, I ran into limits. Still saving weight is a great idea always. Tuning your firmware and slicer helps too. Prusa slicer still gives me the best results of any and using S-curve acceleration in Marlin helps too. I got guides and stuff all over thingiverse on this or you can poke me or some of the others in the Morninglion Industries Discord if you want live assistance.

3DLS The Full Belt Free Printer From Morninglion Industries

The leadscrew idea for the y axis is interesting alright. I considered remixing the bed support so the rods are wider apart and doing something with the bed support to make it more rigid - I hadn't considered the lead screw.
Not so sure about printing directly onto the aluminium bed though. I wonder about adhesion and part removal issues with different filaments.
Worth considering though.

You need to use a build sheet like I said. You wont print directly on the aluminum. It's detailed more here and you can come chat it up on the Morninglion Industries Discord for more help too if you want.

CR-10 S5 Bed Weight Loss Program! [A guide on how to improve performance by cutting weight]

OK that's quite nice and may well be an option for me. My current bed is a little warped but nothing my ABL can't handle. I want to do something about that so I've ordered a PP bed. I have the option of placing it on the current aluminium bed and if I like it's adhesion / release behaviour I'll look to redesign the whole carriage. The manufacturers state that the silicone heating pad can be mounted directly to the PP plate so I think I'll be able remix it to eliminate the steel carriage, aluminium bed, and glass build surface in favour of a printed carriage & combined plate / build surface. That's probably close to the limit of weight saving possible.
If I don't like the adhesion / release behaviour of the PP I'll save myself the time and effort and go with your EZMat suggestion.
Thanks for the advise - I'm on that discord now too!

Seems like a decent plan! I run stock Ender3 beds on the 3DLS with both glass and a build sheet. Works fantastic for me though not the most weight saving. I do have a mod for the AM8 to use the Ender3 235mm bed might be an ok place to start though the spacing of the rods does not match stock Anet frame since I made it for the 3DLS.

I'll see you in the discord!

AM8 Y Carriage Kit For Ender3 Bed