a lil back story.
i got into printing with a cr-10 in november,i love that printer.no hassel,no problems.....i print 50-90 hours a week since november.
i build and design parts for a friends rc addiction.....and mine.
anyway a deal came up that was hard to pass,anet a8 ,upgraded aluminium frame,dual mosfets for heat,bl touch installed and flashed marlin firmware,build tak setup,new glass and hotends,repaired solder joints on bed,bigger gage wires....ect.....all for $150.
the guy said all that was left was to fine tune the machine,but it did print.
so i went check it out,he test printed.....anet came home with me.
fought it for 2 days,sd card reader dont work,so i downloaded driver to run usb.....finally i was able to print.followed a few youtube vids on setting up a8 with marlin,and bl on cura.i had 3 crummy prints then started having problems.display would shutdown few mins after print,sometimes after print starts heat would turn off,most times the nozzle would start print process 1/2in above bed as if the bl told it the bed was there.
lots of drama.....i was about to call it quits.
then i lost ability to print from usb.
so i switched to my cr-10 profile in cura......everything work beautiful.
so now i made exact same profile with anet a8 build volume.......im 6 hours and a few prints flawless printing petg with the a8 on cr-10 settings.
i followed this nice setup vid.
this vid only applies to marlin firmware and cura,printer doesnt really matter,aslong as design similar and layout.
im sure a delta type will be different.
maybe this info will help others.
ive still got alot to learn about the a8,and settings.....ect.
ive noticed the a8 makes alot of clicking type noise,im not familliar with liniar bearings....so i guess ill dig in n research.
So literally mine except I have an e3d v6 hotend (I would get one if I was you the mk8 clogs way too much)
Actually added a v6 clone and converted to bowden extruder,nothing but clogs due to heat creep.bought a th3d titanium throat,still clogs.tried fan with more cooling,and less cooling.....still clogs.petg,retraction and all metal hotends dont get along
And you can print faster
Not really,bowden makes the x lighter.i didnt notice much of a difference since converting to bowden.i did lose the occasional x layer lines and slight shifts when i went to bowden.overall id say im printing slower due to fighting with clogs all the time.i can print upto 2 hours before it starts to clog.
Clones are not all metal too wouldn’t put it past 250 for safety while I can reach 300
My clone came with all metal hotend,no ptfe liner
Well you did buy a clone which is always a bad idea XD
Their are pleny clones making good results and prints....the a8 itself is a clone.heat creep is caused by cooling or over cooling.....not because its a clone.
I don’t like where this is going so I’m going to stop talking
Sorry not trying to arguee,sorry if it sounded that way.
It’s fine I just didn’t want anyone to get angry I have strong opinions.... and I’m a little stressed about my 3D printing server on discord
No worries,ive done alot with my am8 since my original post.i started using buildtak system,changed to lmu88 drylin bearings,a good v6 clone with authentic th3d titanium throat,plenty tunes and calibrations.now im battling heat creap.after 2.5-3 hour in on every print i get bad clogs.but all my firmware errors i initially had are gone.so i understand printer related stress.
i might be able to help do you have discord?
No i dont have discord,not even sure what that is.im running a test print of 8 hours,i blocked the flow of air reaching the upper half of the brake as a test to see if heatcreap/over cooling is really my issue.
And I truly hope everything works out
Discord is a modern chat with voice and text I have a server where we can help you with anything you need