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STICKY

by BETLOG

General information collated into the most often asked questions and answers.
NOT an official Anycubic-operated forum; just customers discussing their machines.



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Service support from Anycubic

by rdate

I am having an extreme delay in part replacement from Anycubic. Still waiting for the hotbed surface now it is almost 1.5 years.

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Great start g code and end g code for anycubic i3 mega

by brunoosti

I'de like to share this. I've tuned it to purge the nozzle in a way it starts printing the actual print as soon as the nozzle touches the bed, with no ooze or derby on the tip. Experiment yourselves to see if it fits your needs:

start

G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fans off
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
M501 ; restore epron settings
M420 S1 ; apply bed leve mesh (if you updated the firmware)
M106 S255 ; fan on
G0 Z0.2 F1800 ; move nozzle to print position
G92 E0 ; specify current extruder position as zero
G1 X190 E50 F1200 ; extrude a line in front of the printer
G92 E0 ; specify current extruder position as zero
G0 Z20 F6000 ; move head up
G1 E-6 F2400 ; retract
G04 S2 ; wait 2s
G0 X0 F6000 ; wipe from oozed filament
G1 E-1 F2400 ; undo some of the retraction to avoid oozing
G1 F6000 ; set travel speed to move to start printing point
M117 Printing...
G5

end

M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors
M107 ; fans off
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 E-6 F2400 ; retract the filament
G1 Z+0.5 ;X-20 Y-20 F7200 ; wipe from model
G28 X0 ;Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G1 Y180 F2000 ;
M84 ; steppers off
G90
M300 P300 S4000

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Print Bed Flatness

by Cativo

A common issue with most 3D printers is maintaining print bed flatness. Aside from adjusting the flatness with the four corner thumb screws, planarity is also critical. Print bed warpage is hard to correct, and that's one reason why some people mod their printers with glass beds (not to mention adhesion issues).

I performed that mod on my Mega since I had some flatness issues, and I wanted to use smaller nozzles, which required critical flatness (thanks BETLOG for the heads up!). What I found was interesting so I thought I would share my experience.
I ended up buying this glass and thermal pad:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LFOI2VS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500224214&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=print+bed+glass+220mm+220mm&dpPl=1&dpID=41A4G4c6IHL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX7ZMN7/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, after installing it and performing the flatness adjustment, it too seemed just as warped as the original aluminum bed. I could get all four corners adjusted perfectly, but the center was almost .2mm higher. What gives? Some people were reporting that their glass was coming in warped from the supplier, so I checked mine with an accurate straight edge and it was dead on flat, so where is the warpage coming from? I thought maybe the paper clips I used to hold down the glass was warping it, but I also checked it installed and it showed perfect flatness, so how is the center rising up .2mm?

As it turns out, there was a bend in the two y-axis shafts, which I found odd since they are made from high precision steel. Well what I discovered was the shafts on their own were pretty straight (after removing them), but what was causing them to bow were the end mounts. The end mounts don't have a very large mounting surface so they can easily tilt if there are any surface variations in the sheet metal cover that they are mounted to, and in fact, they mount very close to the edge where there is a bend radius. You can tell if the alignment of the end mounts are off by loosening the four set screws (one on each side of both ends) and attempting to slide the shaft back and forth. If everything is aligned well, they should easily slide and rotate. Mine didn't. What I did to fix the problem was loosen the end mount attachment fasteners (to get the jammed shafts to slide out) and take a 5/16th drill bit (slightly smaller than the shaft diameter) and insert the smooth end into the end mount hole. Carefully use the drill bit to bend the sheet metal slightly, correcting the tilt. It will take several attempts to bend and check free movement of the shafts. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about (exaggerated in Photoshop to illustrate the tilt):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ujesI1WkzQhEx1hxDxB62rYDCw27364t/view?usp=drivesdk

Once everything was straight, the bed was much flatter and I could successfully print at .05 layer thickness. I think the Anycubic design team should consider widening the end mount footprint so that it would be less likely to tilt with small surface variations, or check for free rotation after they are mounted. I hope this helps anyone with print bed flatness issues!

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Check out my Z brace for the frame gantry on the i3 mega

by Thr333DDD

Seems like the i3 mega has died down quite a bit since it's inception. Are there still people modding their printers? Mine is going through some major mods at the moment. Check back later for more design as I continue to add the mods.

Here's my Z brace mod:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4964531

Z brace frame support Anycubic i3 mega S
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