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STICKY

by BETLOG

General information collated into the most often asked questions and answers.
NOT an official Anycubic-operated forum; just customers discussing their machines.



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Print trouble

by Corwynn

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1271858 my hot end keeps running into the arches and breaking them I have re leveled the print bed. I have had no other print issues. Warping?

Three-path Dice Tower V.2
by bainite
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i3 Mega Identification

by BETLOG

There are several versions of the machine known as the "Anycubic i3 Mega", this thread will hopefully help you to identify which yours is, and establish the useful nicknames and shorthand for specifying each one, so that others know exactly what we are talking about when we say "my mega".
This is a placeholder.


  • 00 version
    • AFAIK this is what is often referred to as the Anycubic "Omega" i3 (note the 'O') - Current Official product name: "ANYCUBIC Modular i3"
    • Not really a 'Mega'. Not actually referred to by anycubic as 'version 00' (although it seems logical they might). Adding it here because it is the precursor to the 'i3 Mega', and sometimes generates confusion because of it's very similar name, and is also an i3 type.
    • perspex frame
    • Opensource firmware
    • LCD2004 display (iirc)
    • http://www.anycubic3d.com/products/show/1044.html

The following is sourced from Alice Yu on facebook and edited for logic:
2018-01-30(ish)


  • 01 version
    • Black in appearance
    • Out of production, no longer sold.
    • Have inductive probe leveling-assist device.
    • Driver: A4988
    • Trigorilla (8bit, Mega 2560 chipset)
      Main Control Chip: ATMEGA256016AU
      Input Power: 10V ~ 30V
      Standby Current: 35mA±5mA
      Stepper Motor Drivers: 5 channel Max
      Hot bed Output Control: 1 channel
      Heated output control: 2 channel
      Under-current output control: 3 channel
      Dimensions: 125mm x 82mm

  • 02 version
    • As above
    • Blue in appearance.

  • 03 version.
    • Trigorilla 8bit
    • Ultrabase
    • No inductive leveling-assist sensor
    • 1.1 firmware
    • Will use open source firmware in the near future. (most likely the community written effort, nothing to do with anycubic releasing the code)
    • http://www.anycubic3d.com/products/show/1048.html


  • 04 version.
    • TriGorilla mainboard 32bit
    • Ultrabase??
    • Z Sensor??
    • 1.4 firmware
    • Product URL??

What Alice Yu originally wrote, verbatim:
Currently we are selling 03 and 04 version. They have different USB driver, firmware and mainboard. 03 version is with 1.1 firmware, 04 version with 1.4 firmware and TriGorilla mainboard. Besides, 03 version will use open source firmware in the near future. As for 01 and 02 version, we do not produce and sell them now, and both of them have auto-leveling device but 02 version is blue appearance.

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MODIFYING/CUSTOMIZING STOCK FIRMWARE ON 32BIT CONTROLLER BOARD

by GeckoSub

I took the liberty to move my post from the FIRMWARE section to its own thread here, as I am hoping we might get some good info here. Also, I think it's a good idea to separate 8bit and 32bit board issues.

First of all, this is about the Mega04 version with the 32bit controller, not the 8bit one! So, please don't post here about 8bit issues or solutions.

Second of all, a big thanks to 'bartolomeus', whom I think identified ChiTu as the company making the 32bit boards and to 'bkrzysiek' for veryfying that it is actually possible to make certain changes to the stock FW (V1.4)! And thanks to 'gminnick' for chipping in, too (their posts are still in the hardware and firmware sections).

The reason for being able to customize the stock firmware on the 32bit controller is that, as of now, that board can not run Marlin. (But that may change in the future as it seems there's a lot of work happening to make it work on 32bit boards).

But "luckily" ChiTu has opened a backdoor as there is a range of things that can be modified in their, otherwise closed, firmware. Supposedly in Marlin, to make FW changes you have to recompile and upload the full FW to the printer. But in the ChiTu FW system, you can upload single lines of G-gode and save them to the printer. The changes will be there after reboots of the machine.

This is good news indeed, as you can set stepper values, step direction, build volume settings, various temp settings, jerk/speed/acceleration settings, thermistor type, Z-height offset, end stop types, etc.
But hold your horses... With the limited documentation we still have, it seems there's still some stuff we can't do this way. E.g. it seems we can't define pins. Also, it seems we can't set the preheating temps for the two different filament options - maybe somehow that is tied to the TFT user interface which is run by separate commands?

But the good news for me is that, at least, I can change the stepper direction and values for my upcoming Titan extruder mod which is what sparked this whole investigation for me in the first place.

Now, on to the documentation:
Here's a link to a text file 'bkrzysiek' posted containing a list of G-code commands that should allow us to modify the printer FW:
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/61/34/46/dc/88/Complete_machine_parameters.txt

Someone else had a look into the same commands as 'bkrzysiek' and spent some time trying to make sense of them. Here's his write-up:
http://www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html

I have tested the stepper direction, extruder fan kick-in temp and a few other basic options and they all worked.

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i3 Mega S/Trigorilla with an E3D PT100?

by Ndlucas

Hello everyone. I'm in the process of upgrading my stock Mega S for higher temp materials. I've printed CF PC up to 260/90 and get pretty decent results. However, I think there's a bit of better layer adhesion and major speed increases to be gained. I have a new Bondtech BMG to convert it to direct drive and a new blower. The hotend I have is an E3D V6 Ultimate Edition(https://bit.ly/3irvn3k). I also have the E3D PT100 Sensor and Amplifier Board (https://bit.ly/2PA5lhT). I've printed the necessary parts for this (https://bit.ly/3kzWxqD).

Now, I have the documentation/schematic for the Trigorilla board and after examining it, and researching, I've seen a bit of conflicting info on how to connect the PT100 amplifier board. I've attached the Trigorilla pinout and the PT100 amplifier pinout here. I simply wired the 40w heater cartridge in the same place as the stock hotend was (HEATER0 - D10), which I believe is correct. I know how the PT100 sensor connects to the amplifier board. Easy. The confusing part is, how do I connect the PT100 amplifier board to the Trigorilla board (there's 3 pins on the side that connects to the mainboard from the amplifier?)? I can see the 5v and gnd on the AUX pins, but the other two are D42 and D43 (I suspect digital but the PT100 requires analog if I'm not mistaken). What do I need to do? If someone has done this or clearly knows exactly what needs to be done or how, I'd be very appreciative, and would definitely PayPal/CashApp to show some appreciation if it works. Thank you in advance.

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Printer clicks on the board and stop printing

by brunoosti

What is that? It seams something to do with temperature. ("tic tic tic tic tic" and stops)
I replaced the fan for a 5015 blower, and did a PID auto tune.
It doesn't happen every sigle time. And it is always on the beginning of the print. I Have my inicial g code to turn the fans on to cool ozed filament and clean the nozzle and than the first layer is fans off.
Thanks : )

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PT100 and Tri gorilla board.

by ABlondek

Bought a PT100 to allow higher temps. Already have a E3D v6 and Titan Extruder. Does anyone know, or where they have picked up the analog pin on the Trigorilla board?

I can see the 5v and gnd on the AUX pins, but the other two are D42 and D43 (I suspect digital).

I also run Marlin and have seen I need to recompile it with my temp pin. Am I missing anything?

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Replacement Heatbed (Cable) Source in Germany?

by Bikecyclist

I just found that my heatbed cabling suffers from a broken wire, and now would like to replace the entire heatbed, or possibly only the cabling.

Do you know any source for either of these, preferrably in Germany or offering quick delivery to there at reasonable cost? Many thanks in advance!

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I3 Mega print issues

by SiostraStachu

I have my Anycubic I3 Mega and it's print bad. I'm preety sure it's not the extruder spring tension issue. I was looking on the internet but didn't found any clues what is wrong. Anybody have an idea what can be cousing the issues?

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Mega-S extruder with TMC2208 noisy

by RetiredAndroid

Hello good people of Thingverse,
I just upgraded my Mega to Mega-S and with this opportunity I upgraded drivers to TMC2208, changed fans to silent, changed couplers and so on. I also changed extruder stepper to original E3D with 0.9 degree/step (not the smallest pancake package but this bigger one used with titans https://e3d-online.com/motors-compact-but-powerful-motor ). This bumped up my extruder resolution from circa 100 to almost 800 steps/mm (makes sense as E3D motor has twice resolution of stock one and -S extruder is rated 300-400 steps/mm).
All works silent and great.. except said extruder. I cannot set retraction speed over 20 mm/s or I get extremely loud noise of grinding gears. It does not seem to be problem with filament gripping, rather gears inside and/or motor make this nose. Even with 20 mm/s it is the loudest part of the printer.

Now, I'm wondering, is this normal? Was this motor an overkill? Is this geared extruder so loud?
What would you suggest to do? Go back to original extruder? Original stepper? Original driver? Order Titan extruder (although it seems Mega-S extruder is clone of Titan).
I'm running marlin 1.1.9 ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3249319 ) and ref. voltage for driver is already at 1.35V.

Thanks for any advice!

Anycubic i3 Mega / Mega-S Marlin 1.1.9 Custom Firmware - Extra Features & Quality Tweaks
extruder i3Mega noise TMC2208
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