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PETG curling on the Ultrabase *SOLVED* (SORT OF)

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Hello guys and girls I really need some help letting PETG prints stick to the bed.
I have been trying to print with PETG for some time now and small prints turn out oke but the problem is when I try to print bigger objects they start curling of the print bed.
I tried turning my part cooling fan all the way down to 30% or even 15% and the heat bed I tried 70, 80 and now even 90C but that doesn't change a thing about it.

My bed is perfectly levelled using a mesh in the firmware so that's not it.
The filament is dry.
Environment temperature is above 20C and there is no draft or cold air blowing.

I would really appreciate your input on this.
I've read other posts with warping issues but there was no solution for me in that.
Ohw and I also tried printing with a raft but that doesn't work out either.
My first layer is printed 140% line width for better adhesion...

Cheers,

Arjan

I keep posting my reply, helps me a bunch. Some feedback please. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV9cp_U1jm8

Sorry - but he´s printing PLA...

So you tried that?

Yes - but with ASA > No Good!
The best results so far is with FR4 GFK.

O.K. ASA is no PVA but thanks.

???????
He is printing PLA on PVA...
I printed ASA on PVA....

Thought you were refering to an ASA slurry. For now, I will assume that, for the printing of PETG filament on a Ultrabase with a layer of PVA, the dury is out. I for one have had improved adhesion by miles using PLA but for those printing PETG, more trial and error is needed.

Shit happends...
The best results i got printing PETG is on a Carbon Plate, sticks like hell when the Plate is hot...
Then i spray it with alcohol/water and it just pops off....

Buildplate looks nice!

This is a very common problem. My solution:

  1. Hairspray. I stopped playing with bed temperature a while ago. Saves you a ton of electricity as well.
  2. Enclosure. The problem is not how hot the bed is but the difference in temperature between different parts in your print. Whatever temperature you set for your bed it won't heat evenly in every corner. Another issue is air movement around it. It doesn't have to be a full enclosure, it's enough to just cover the sides. Easiest thing to do - put your printer in a cardboard box

Hope this helps

An Enclosure will not always do the trick if you print with ASA or ABS.
It will always depend how large and how much infill an object is / has.
Even ABS will need cooling in an Enclosure and that might be already the tip where it will warp.
I´m testing Nice ABS and it doesn´t tend to warp with big objects and zero cooling.
But small objects will need the cooling or they will just melt away...

We are printing with PETG here. PETG curls upwards off the plate, usually corners. In my opinion it is caused by uneven temperature within the print. So cooling probably makes it worse as in - hot plate vs. cold air from fan.
I haven't noticed any warping in PETG prints further up on Z axis with or without enclosure.

Thanks for your reply! I do have a isolated film underneath the bed to maximize heating out of it.
Hair spray you say... I hope my girlfriend has a bottle of that laying around I will give it a try.
What temperature do you use on your heat bed? The ultrabase needs to have a temperature difference to release the part when finished printing.

I leave the bed at room T. It's the spray that holds the part in place, not ultrabase pores.
By the way I forgot to mention I print with brims.
But please note the second part of my advice - enclosure. Actual temperature of the print doesn't really matter (IMO), what matters is keeping that temperature even across the whole print.

I know this is silly but did u give your bed a good clean with alcholhol before it's hot?

I found it it makes prints stick to my bed super hard even if it's not clean. tho sometimes alcholhol can also leave some marks for me. so maybe there's a better cleaner.

Yes i did clean the bed with alcohol before the print.
I have an update tho...
I let the printer finish the print of almost 24hours and it succeeded, the warping was really bad at the end but it sticked to maybe 1/4 of thr model.
And boy did it stick well on that part... It actually tore a peace of the coating of even after letting the ub cool down first.
So like Rumbalin said the ub is not the perfect solution for printing PETG couse it might damage your print bed.
Laying down a raft of pla or some bed surface protection is recommended.
I will flag this post as kind of solved.
Thank all of you for your replies and inputs!

Hi,
I am printing with Renforce PETG, 80°C on the bed, 230°C in the nozzle and 30% speed for filament cooling fan. The biggest sample I printed was 12x12cm on the base and it sticks like hell at 80°C, but get totally loose after cooling down the bed.

Cheers,
LLSmurf

Thanks for your input! Might also be the quality of the PETG... I've tried different brands but i can't seem to get it to work haha

I found that a brim helped alot for PETG, 90 degrees on the base aswell.
Just make sure the UB cools before removing

Did you clean with alcohol ?

Yes I did a thorough clean with alcohol.

Did you clean the UB when it was hot - try this and / or use a skirt.
I´m using a Carbon Plate and it works quite good with PETG

Cleaning it while it's hot would be better indeed i will try that next print thank you

I read somewhere that the UB is not suitable for PETG....
I will look for it.

Found it:

Quote:
Please note: PETG is not recommended because the material can easily break the Ultrabase surface.

Thanks for taking the time to look it up for me, but wouldn't this mean that it adhered to well and rips off the coating when you try to remove it from the print bed?
Again thanks for all the replies

No - it just says "Break the glass"... so i really don´t know....

Thank you! And it might be not perfect for petg that's for sure but it shouldn't be impossible. For now i squished some pla with my 3d pen under and against the corners so I hope it won't let go of the bed. For now it seems to work. If it looks stupid but it works, it ain't stupid hahaha

If this is the case it's probably best to use something like masking tape to stop the UB from breaking, or change the bed out to something different.

I have printed 3 kg's of PETG with the UB and no issues. Two different brands with bed temps 60-85. Not saying it can't damage the bed, but still...

is it always in the same place or does it happen in random spots?

Well it starts at the corners/sides and eventually the back also comes loose.
The middle tends to hold on the longest. Now I'm thinking about it, the left side always curls first on the big prints and also is more severe than the right side. Bit on smaller prints I had te right side sticking worse than the left.... I don't know hahahaha

For really big flat parts, only using no cooling and 80 bed temp has done the trick for me. Using rafts and printing the first layer really slow might help also.

I print my first layer at 40mm/s, walls 40mm/s supports 50mm/s support interface 33.333mm/s infill 60mm/s
Temp 230C higher temperatures is more blobbing and stringing.
Is 40mm/s first layer to fast?

I usually do 15-20, but the difference in adhesion is not that huge.

Thank you will try that next time together with alcohol cleaning on a hot printbed

I had a similar problem and found that PVA thinned down about 6 to 1 applied with a soft brush or sponge to a warm bed solved it. Parts release with a little help when the bed cools and the PVA washes of the bed and parts with warm water. I heat the bed to 60 degrees.

That's a good idea actually.
I was thinking about slicing the model petg settings but temperature at pla, print a raft, pause the print when finished the raft, replace pla with petg and bump up the temperature, continue printing.... Solving a bit of pva sounds a lot easier tho hahahaha