I am planning to add a Raspberry 3 Pi to my Mega i3s Printer.
Has anyone installed one inside the base, or do they need to be outside?
Thanks in advance,.
This looks good.
Which pi did you use?
How did you solve the problem of getting the wireless network to once the bottom case was closed?
None problem whith the wifi work perfect the printer its in mu room and the wifi in the kitchen are 2 walls
Pi 3b plus
This is great! thanks for sharing.
So you connect the USB directly from the external connector circuit board, and power the pi through the DC/DC converter and power the cooling fan off the pi.
I do not use the external usb connector because I solder the 4 pins of the usb directly to the mother board
to turn on the raspberry use a 12v to 5v converter and a switch
And for the fan if u use a 5v fan the pi can turn on it if u use a 12v fan u can connect directly to the power alimentation
And if u want use the printer using the pc and a usb cable u can turn off the pi whith the switch
For flashing the firmware of the printer i use the octoprint pluging
Great pictures and good explanation, thank you very much.
the hard work was solder the 4 pins cuz they are so tiny and remember they can be touch each other
but its a cool upgrade and whith the metal frame i dont have problems whith the wifi antena
I put mine inside aswell and soldered a connector to the usb port.
I am trying to turn the printer on and off with a relay on the negative leads and it is working as long as the usb is not connected to the pi.
As soon as I connect the usb cable, the board turns on with 5v power although it is set to run from DC via the jumper.
Do you know a way to turn off USB power from the trigorilla board? I did already remove 5v and GND cables from the usb connector, only leaving data + and data - connected.
@ChaostheoryBOT You may want to start a new discussion on this topic, this one has been quiet for several weeks and your question is mor broad than just mounting a Pi inside.
Just a thought.
I have one externaly attached to my i3 Mega, but syphoning the power from inside the printer with a buck converter. Inside will kill the wifi signal, externaly works fine. If you want I can give you my mounting designs for the pi and a webcam if that helps. Octoprint is really amazing and I wouldn't wanna miss it anymore...
@S3BR4 - what's your workflow to get the gcode file to Pi & then printing via Octoprint?
I tried it using a 3B+ connected to my Anycubic I3 Mega but the print quality was appalling and seemed a good 10% slower. I'd been hoping to do Octolapse, but the poor print quality via Octo meant it wasn't worth it.
I know you didn't ask me, but I'm answering anyhow. :-)
I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ that I control using Octoprint, and I'd never go back to using a flash memory card. I've noticed no difference in speed or quality. I'm not someone that pushes the limit when it comes to print speed though - I usually use fairly conservative settings, and maybe that is part of it. I usually use Cura as my slicer, and I have an Octoprint plugin installed. Basically I just load my STL in to Cura, click slice, and click "Print" and it's done. Can't get much simpler. I also have a copy of Simplify3D that I use sometimes with a post processing script. It works similarly to Cura. I slice, I save the gcode anywhere, and it automatically gets uploaded over wifi to my Octoprint server and starts the print job.
That is my goal, thanks.
@dtylerb - thanks for the info. Are you able to share the profile you use?
The mounting for the pi would be appreciated. I don't plan to add a web cam, so wont need those.
Good idea, but I idly wonder if that might introduce temperature problems ... I occasionally had some (mild) overtemperature warnings on a non-overclocked Raspi even in a normal case.
I have used a pi on my train set and put it into a small case I bought from amazon. the case included a fan and several heat sinks and I have never had a problem with over heating. so this is another reason to mount it outside the base.
I know it has been done.. I've seen mods to do it. I was actually intending on putting mine inside the base, but never really got around to it, and at this point I probably won't because I've already crammed a bunch of other stuff in there. Besides, it does complicate things a little. As sui77 pointed out, it may shield wifi - also, if it's inside the base you need to find a way to get your power and USB hooked up. Power usually isn't a big deal, but USB you'll either need to solder to the mainboard, or run the usb cable back to the outside of the printer where it can plug in. I've gone with the middle ground - my pi is clipped to the Z frame, but powered from the printer so that it doesn't need a separate power supply. I'm still fighting occasional "undervoltage" reports though, as the buck converter I chose doesn't seem to provide voltage that is as steady as the original power supply.
Did you go with a Pi4? Cause that is really tricky to power. If its a 3B+ it should work just fine with. At least it does for me...
It's a 3B+.. and it SHOULD work, I agree. Sometimes it goes a week with no trouble and then suddenly I get an undervolt warning. I've measured the voltage at the end of the wire where it plugs in to the pi and it's already slightly above what the stock power supply provides, so I think it must just be fluctuating more. I think I can still safely boost the voltage a bit more, so I'll try that next time I have it open. Despite the report, I haven't had any actual problems with it yet. I also bought a 4 pack of converters, so I could always swap it out for a new one if I decide there's something wrong with it. Of course the converters could also be garbage - they were pretty cheap. I bought these:
It did power my pi zero fine, but that was just painfully slow.
Might be down to noisy inpout power? I'm using something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Type-C-Step-Down-Converter-Output-Waterproof/dp/B086KTGRH1/
Just crimped on some connectors to the leads and screwed it directly into the 12V output of the main power supply. Works perfectly so far. Probably a bit more expensive then your solution though.
Yes, I really think it could be input power. My LED lights that I added also pulse ever so slightly in sync with the heatbed. I am using a Marlin 2 based firmware with PID heatbed temperature control, so it cycles on and off a lot.
I think that if your leds are dimming/flickering when the bed power comes on, there is too much current draw on your power supply and the voltage is dipping. I would look at lowering the load on the power supply.
That should work.
I was going to get this, since I have used it before:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKXZH7X/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AMIHZKLK542FQ&psc=1
Cool, thanks for the information and link.
I plan on using the 3B+.
Thanks for the feedback. I think I am boing to do the outside mount on the z-axis. I like the idea of using the internal supply, but may want to do other additions (fans, drivers etc.) so will add the external supply. I'll probably mount that at the back and design a bracket 9then print it) to hold it.
Keep in mind that WiFi might be too much shielded by the metal frame. I've just printed a case and taped it on the outer side of the z-frame.
Good point. Thanks.
I had the same idea, but due to Wifi I installed it outside. But I have a power source for Raspberry installed in the base, as well as relais, used as PSU controll of printer, controlled by Raspberry. You can see some detail here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4764994
If you have only passive cooling (like I have), outside of fundament box the Raspberri is also cooled better.
This is another really good design. I have several options, which is always good.