Is anyone else having a lot of trouble with stepper drivers burning out around 1,200 hours? I have replacements in the mail, does anyone have advice to prevent it?
Hello guys - after many hours of calibrating I finally managed that the nozzle has the same distance everywhere on the print bed.
Unfortunately it is everywhere ~ 0,12 mm too much. In which direction I have to adjust the Z-height to compensate this 0.12 mm. I don't want the nozzle to scratch my print bed.
So example 100 - 0,12 = 99,88 or 100 + 0,12 = 100,12?
The same question applies to Z-Offset
-14.60 - 0.12 = 14.72 or -14.60 + 0.12 = 14.48?
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator
Good day all
I have printed this bracelet: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13505
It needs 1 perimiter, 0% infill, 0 top/bottom.
On all the corners I have what looks like zits/blobs. There are no retraction threw out the complete print - It basically prints like vase mode.
I am now thinking that my acceleration and or jerk settings are incorrect - seems like over extrusion on corners?
I`m on marlin 1.1.9 that I got here on thingiverse.
Maximum feedrates (units/s):
M203 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E200.00
Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
M201 X2000 Y2000 Z2000 E2000
Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
M204 P600.00 R3000.00 T1000.00
Advanced: B S T X Y Z E
M205 B20000 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 E10.00
Good day all.
I`m printing now for 4 years and 2 months - 1 perspex frame prusa i3 iteration that is still printing flawless - had a home build cartesian and a he3d delta when they first came on the market. The he3d delta also printed flawlessly despite the inferior rollers and construction.
Bought myself the anycubic linear plus 2 months ago and added tmc2208 xyz drivers, original e3d v6 hotend and titan extruder with capricorn bowden.
I have been struggling with zits/blobs for a month now - I almost threw the delta into the rubbish bin (don
t think it will fit :-)). I have 4 years experience, but still need to learn a bunch and Im not the brightest pencil in the packet :-).
My retraction went from 1mm to 7mm where it lost part of layers on 7mm, but in between those numbers nothing really changed with the zits. Negative extra restart distance on retraction from -0.1 to -1mm where I also lost layers on small islands. Coasting distance from 0.1 to 1mm where I lost layers at 1mm. Wipe distance from 2mm to 7mm no changes. Retraction speed from 20mm/s to 60mm/s. Different colours/types of PLA filament. And blobs all over the show.
I replaced my 0.5mm nozzle with a 0.4mm and saw a slight difference.I replaced the capricorn bowden with the stock white ptfe bowden (550mm) and I saw a bigger difference (Measured my filament and they are 1.74 to 1.76 but on 3 meters 90% = 1.75.
MY PROBLEM IS: I did not think about temperature or I did think in the incorrect way. I tried 198 to 180. My thoughts were the cooler the less the filament will seep out of the nozzle which in turn will reduce blobs - may be true depending on temperature.
I increased my temperature to 210 and printed out a 20mm cube. Normally when it retracts, move to the next layer and extrude on the corner, there will be a small blob. With the same settings but higher temperature, I now have a +- 0.2mm under extrusion in the corners where it starts to print every layer.
If you take a injection and, NO don`t squirt your dog with water - try to suck thick oil and thin oil - thin oil will be easier. The same with retraction, if the filament are hotter the retraction or suction will be better (to suck the filament back into the nozzle). Too high a temperature will end up in stringing.
Just thought I share my stupid struggle :-/
Good day all.
1st thing - my diag rods are not 271.5mm as what I see in the 1.1.9 marlin firmware I got here at thingiverse. I just measured them with a ruler(only thing I had on hand) and they are more like 268mm. In any case, a 20mm cube are printing 19.80mm in x and y. I did reduce my delta_diagonal_rod from 271.5 to 269.5 and now x and y are closer at 19.95 (can maybe reduce to 269). BUT I have a problem with the z height, it measures 20.25mm. My delta were bought from anycubic on December 2018, I only replaced steppers with tmc2208 on xyz and installed a original e3d v6 and titan extruder. Can`t think it will be my steps per mm on xyz. I must add that I have a 0.10mm z-axis offset in simplify3d to lift the nozzle 0.10 on 1st layer (maybe due to nozzle/bed heat).
Any advice will be apreciated.
I have tried to connect the Wifi Board ESP8266 to the Anycubic kossel as Cris Riley did in the Tutorial on his Youtube channel
He did this with a RAMPS board which has AUX1 (D0, D1) Pins. Unfortunately the Trigorilla board does not have any AUX1 pins but only AUX3.
I can use the 5V and GND of AUX3 to drive the ESP8266 which is a NodeMCU LUA but there is no data transfer possible via AUX3.
Does anybody know if it is possible to connect D0 and D1 on the Trigorilla Board or how to change Marlin firmware to comunicate via AUX3?
Help would be verry appreciated.
I have a kossel printer and for some reason it now wont bed level correctly. I can zero out center and two of the tower edges but the 3rd is way off. On bed leveling it comes down and bangs the bed. Ive went so far as to re-leveling the bed, reset end stops to same height, reset adjusting screws to same height, made all sure all nuts bolts screws and belts are tight. Dont know what else to check
Hello everyone, my Kossel LINEAR PLUS has actually a Z offset of -15.90.
If I want to raise up the extruder from the printing bed, what value should I set? For example, if imposed -16.20, does the extruder move away or approach?
Thank you so much.