Anycbic Kossel Linear Plus and Marlin 2.0.0 problem

by OilBrush

Hey guys and gals. I upgraded my FW to Marlin 2.0.0 (https://www.lpomykal.cz/kossel-marlin-firmware/), but there is a small problem. When I abort the print from Cura the printer starts homing the rod pairs individually and not at the same time. If I wouldn't shut down the printer the rod pair or the carrier would crash to one of the aluminium extrusions. Any idea why this is happening? Also, I downloaded the original FW, but adjusting the Z offset doesn't change anything, so I'm kind of stuck. And grumpy.

View Comment

Marlin Firmware

by slingshots-1

So for creating and uploading I took the firmware I found online from LPomykal and uploaded that. I was scared I would mess up the firmware and not be able to recover it. I just got a Linear plus last night and the auto bed leveling wouldn't work, which brought me to the marlin firmware.

I have since uploaded marlin and it seems to be working well. But, in my experience, I'm not happy with just uploading some else's firmware. I want to know how it works so I can play around and mess with it. So for creating my own firmware, all I need is the Marlin.ino file and the config.h and adv_config.h files correct?

When I see a youtube video from someone who is uploading marlin they have 30 .h tabs open and mine never show up. And it's never straightforward, at least to what I have found accessible to download for marlin on Github.

Can I take a Marlin.ino file from an older marlin version, and then add the two .h files?

Also, I was browsing the marlin code, and for a custom boot screen, how would I go about that? I know I have to uncomment a bit, but what must be done for the bitmap file?


View Comment

Kossel restored

by nonaak

Hi everybody,

Me and my son (12 years old) refurbished an old anycubic Kossel plus. It has become very beautiful. It has turned black with yellow.
I changed the motherboard to a bigtreetech skr V 1.3 with three TMC2208 for the axles and a DRV8825 for the extruder.
And a BigTreeTech TFT24 v1.1 display to top it off.
Now I have started working on the firmware and am having some trouble getting it all right.

First of all, it is true that the BigTreeTech TFT24 v1.1 display cannot operate in two modes (original display mode and the TFT mode). Is there a solution for that yet? or is it choosing what default it will be for me.

In the Configuration.h I can't manage to set the "Step_per_mm" on 40 steps. after loading the firmware it is 80 steps. (I now change that in the display).

When I click on "Auto Calibration" in the display. Then the printer probes off center. about 20mm right towards you.

I tried to print despite everything. A flat round disc of 80 mm dia and 1 mm high. But after everything was heated up and the print started I didn't see a nice disk but a thick lump of PLA (center-right- away from you).

a bit of a shame, it went so well.

Maybe someone is kind enough to look through my Configuration.h and my Configuration_adv.h, and maybe see something that's not right.
you would do a great job with that.

View Comment

spare belt and upper wheel, which size and type for linear plus

by marcottt

Hi all, i think to buy some spare with time, someone can tell me about size of belt and the upper wheel ? My printer is a anycubc kossel linear plus

Any other spare useful (not extruder) ?

View Comment

Anycubic Plus (probably Pulley too) stock hotend fix

by DukeLander

Ok, I will try to explain with my perfect english... and if you do it, so do it at your own risk.

Like most of Anycubic owners, I had problems with extrusion and print quality which has getting worst with time, ending with extruder jumps,hotend leakings, oozing etc...
Problem with hotend is there are more than one problem. It is nozzle, PTFE tube, nozzle-heatbrake-PTFE connection, heatbrake poor design, thermistor and heater poor connection with heatblock and thermistor poor quality.

Solution is very simple, you only need some skills with tools and some CPU thermal paste and time. You can use thermal glue but if you need to disassemble again in future, you will have a problem. Thermal paste is cheap, stable and easy to remove if you need it with polyalcohol and similar...
I have used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut while it is certified to +350°C, works great.

First of all, you need new good quality PTFE tube, price is ~5e for good quality tube on Amazon in EU. Stock tube is catastrophe...
Same with nozzle, buy new ones, it is cheap, stock is very, very low quality. My nozzle was "dead" after one week.

When you get new parts, you need to completely disassemble hotend from effector, (fan's, housing, everything) take down stock PTFE tube (from hotend and extruder) and trow away (before that take lenght measure for new one) only PTFE tube, you will need coupling with new PTFE.
Prepare new PTFE, you have to almost perfectly to cut 90° on one end of PTFE (that goes in hotend-you can print PTFE cutter or so before this action, in emergency you can use coupler as cutting guide) mount it on extruder and just prepare it for hotend,leave hotend coupler aside.

You have to disassemble the hotend. Take nozzle down (pliars and wrench) and heatbrake from heatblock (heatbrake stays together with heatsink), on heatblock you will find 2 small holes where are inbus/allen screws for heater and thermistor and you have to unscrew them, take thermistor and heater out.
On heatsink you will find 2 small holes where are 2 inbus/allen screws, unscrew and heatbrake is free from heatsink, like on Pic 2.
And there you will see design problem with heatbrake. There is no threads on heatbrake on heatsink side,it is simple cylinder and tolerance is too big so heat dispersion is very poor.

Now take new nozzle and heatbrake and put it together on heatblock. I recommend to watch some yt videos how to do it, it is a very important step, i.e. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNXYL-3UdOA
Put thin layer thermal paste on cylinder and inside walls on heatsink (I mean very thin layer), put it together and tighten the screws on heatsink.

At this point, half job is done.

Now take thermistor and you will see very small cylinder with wires in it at end. 99,9% cylinder is not fixed on wires and that is big problem, because you are getting wrong temperature readings because thermal "connection" is very poor, while efector is moving due printing, thermistor wires are moving inside heatblock. That is one of reasons why your hotend temperature readings are jumping 10°C up and down and you see temperature change traces on your prints.
Take small pliers and try very gently to press cylinder until it is fixed on wires.
Be aware, if you press too hard, you can permanently damage your thermistor. When it is done,put some thermal paste in thermistor hole on heatblock and thin layer on thermistor end, put it back in heatblock and tighten the screw.
Be aware, tightening screw has to press cylinder in hole (that is cylinder function). If you miss cylinder, you can permanently damage thermistror wires...again...
Now take heater, put thin thermal paste on heater and in heater walls inside heatblock,put it together and tighten it with screw.

At this point, your heatend is finished and you can assemble the hotend on effector.
When you are finished with mounting, last but not least important step is PTFE tube "housing" inside hotend.
And here is why is so important to cut the end of PTFE to 90°, because PTFE tube goes all the way down trough heatsink and heatbrake to the nozzle. If you have some bigger tolerance beetween them, you risk blob of death and similar problems.

Now comes tricky part, do it carefully, if you dont want something like on my stock PTFE, big mistake from Anycubic aka improper handling on Pic 3

Put PTFE coupler on heatsink and screw it gently till you can with your fingers, without tools,dont force to maximum tightening with fingers, you need some tolerance for later. Push PTFE tube trought coupler till end, you can use a little more force for that, just to be sure. You will notice PTFE tube goes only in one way, in nozzle direction, secure ring does not allow moving in opposite direction, it suppose to work so if everything is ok.
Now take wrench and tighten coupler with normal tightening force. Secure ring will catch PTFE tube and push it to nozzle while you tightenint the coupler with wrench.

And if everything is ok, you will get extra stable temperatures, no more oozing and realy good prints. Since I did this, I have no issues with my prints.

Pics 4,5,6,7,8 are some examples of printing, I print everything in 0,2mm.

Thats it folks :-)

View Comment

Cura 4.6 retracting all of my filament after every print

by Clonedone

My kossel has been working fine until I upgraded my computer and installed cura 4.6 (previously I was on 4.4). I wasn't able to add the same profile I had from 4.4 to 4.6.

Now the printer will finish a print successfully, but then instead of returning to home, it will retract over 400mm of filament and then eventually return home and turn off the heaters.

Here is my end code in cura if anyone can help me take a look at it:
M400 ;Free buffer
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 F{speed_travel} Z+1 E-1 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G90 ;absolute positioning
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off
M107 ;fan off
M84 ;steppers off
G28 ;move to endstop
M84 ;steppers off

View Comment

FIXED Nozzle Temperature dropping and fluctuating rapidly

by Joanna1234

Just recently, my nozzle temps have been extremely unstable. Whenever I start a print, the recently stable 200 degrees Celsius drops drastically - by around 15 degrees. This almost always triggers thermal runaway. However, if it doesn't, the temperature fluctuates rapidly by around 7 degrees during the print.

I've already calibrated the PID, and even tried to use auto temp.

Could anyone help fix this? Thanks in advance.


I replaced the heater cartridge and now the temperatures are stable. Thank you all for replying!

Anycubic_Kossel_Plus Failed_Print temperature thermal_runaway
View Comment

Anycubic Linear Plus + SKR 1.3 - the best and cheapest upgrade

by DukeLander

I have tried several boards but this one is ultimate winner.
I saw it first time on Chris Basement video in combination with Prusa Mk3 and it is supported by Marlin 2.0.
I found BigTreeTech SKR 1.3 for 17 (seventheen) euros on AliExpress, waited for 2 weeks for delivery, previously I had LV8729 (128 step) and DRV8825 (32 step) drivers.
I have combined 8729 for XYZ and 8825 for extruder (First I have tried with A4988 on extruder but it was too loud).
Of course, it is fully compatible with A4988 drivers.

Marlin 2.0 is still in alpha stage but it does hell of a job.
BigTree has Marlin 2.0 firmware version on GitHub, but it is outdated in terms it is not compatible with latest Marlin 2.0 and there is no support for deltas - delta section is completely removed from BigTree config files.
Result was writing from scratch configuration files in latest Marlin 2.0, where Marlin team did great job with example config files for Anycubic kossel, it is a really new dimension in correlated functions and parameters in new config files + PlatformIO IDE is much better than Arduino IDE for work.

Summa summarum:

-100% compatible board with stock parts on AC Linear Plus
-Very fast and precise printing with Arc,Bezier curves and Linear Advance function on
-If you use 32+ steps drivers, you can hear only fans, finally you can print and sleep in same room
-Wide options in menu on M 2.0, you can literally do anything through menu options, i.e. pause, filament change etc works flawlessly
-Price: 17 € board... no comment...

There is only one downside on this board: hotend fan - it is always on when you turn your printer on because there is only one fan output on board and it is used for part cooling.
There is possible workaround to make some outputs on board to be configurable fan output, but I did not care about that.

Here are some results:

0,2mm print:


Video about silent run:

In next days I will upload config files and manual how to do it, till then, make some comments :-)

View Comment

Rod replacements?

by sharky25k


I got an anycubic Kossel Linear Plus last year and no matter how much I tried I never managed to level it correctly and be level on the entire surface of the bed.

Currently I have the printer on an SKR 1.4 turbo board with TMC2209 and it kinda works OK, but I have some issue, that the size of the prints are a little bit off in the left side (they seem slightly smaller not too much but maybe 0.5 mm). I noticed that the effector carriage is moving a little bit so I would like to change the rods for the printer. Unfortunately I don't find any good genuine source for the rods, and I am also not really savy to make them by myself. I saw some designs for magnetic rods here on thingiverse, but the issue is that I don't have another printer to print the components, and I don't want to use this printer as it seems that it has some dimension issues. And for this parts the sizes are critical...

I would think to order something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808866275.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.12746007adzYyS&algo_pvid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5&algo_expid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5-3&btsid=0ab6d59515939707120333096e74b9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I am pretty sure that the magnetic carriages will fit my printer, but I don't know if the effector module would do the trick... Mainly because I don't see how you would put on that the fan for part cooling. As well as the rods are 300 mm.

Does anybody know a place from where you can get some rods the size of this printer? Most sales which I see are for 200 250 or 300 mm carbon rods and as far as I know, the rods on the linear plus are 267 mm...

I don't really need magnetic rods, but I want something which will definitely not wiggle.

Any suggestions are very welcome. Also if you would have a list of parts that would be great.

Thank you in advance,

View Comment