Rod replacements?

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I got an anycubic Kossel Linear Plus last year and no matter how much I tried I never managed to level it correctly and be level on the entire surface of the bed.

Currently I have the printer on an SKR 1.4 turbo board with TMC2209 and it kinda works OK, but I have some issue, that the size of the prints are a little bit off in the left side (they seem slightly smaller not too much but maybe 0.5 mm). I noticed that the effector carriage is moving a little bit so I would like to change the rods for the printer. Unfortunately I don't find any good genuine source for the rods, and I am also not really savy to make them by myself. I saw some designs for magnetic rods here on thingiverse, but the issue is that I don't have another printer to print the components, and I don't want to use this printer as it seems that it has some dimension issues. And for this parts the sizes are critical...

I would think to order something like this,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I am pretty sure that the magnetic carriages will fit my printer, but I don't know if the effector module would do the trick... Mainly because I don't see how you would put on that the fan for part cooling. As well as the rods are 300 mm.

Does anybody know a place from where you can get some rods the size of this printer? Most sales which I see are for 200 250 or 300 mm carbon rods and as far as I know, the rods on the linear plus are 267 mm...

I don't really need magnetic rods, but I want something which will definitely not wiggle.

Any suggestions are very welcome. Also if you would have a list of parts that would be great.

Thank you in advance,

Man, you can try to fix yours rod's leght follow my work :

When i get full the same rod's my autocalibration start work pretty good.

Kossel Rod Tool

I have an ultrabase bed and it seems fine. I even printed new holders for the bed, and I still have the same issue. I changed the bed (for a glass one) and no luck.
Regarding the screws, I checked them, they are tight, I checked the brass thingies and they are fine, however, i notice some movement between the ball and the ring of the rod on one of the rods (I don't know how to explain this). This is why I suspect the rods. Regarding the carriages, I don't know, they seem tight so I would expect them to be OK. Anyway if I would find replacement parts, I would replace at this stage everything, including the carriages, effector and rods.

movement between the ball and the ring of the rod end...
So if I understand you correctly it sounds like one of your rod end bearings is failing.
I have been watching this thread for a couple of days now, I didn't think it was the rods, but now I do.
I think you are on the right track. The hard part is going to be trying to find the correct length. I think most folks buy them too long and cut them to size, then epoxy the rod ends into the carbon fiber tubes using a jig, so they are all exactly the same length.
Or if you can find one rod end bearing to replace the bad one I think that would work also.
I have been using my carriages and effector and I am right on the edge of publishing another effector, a semi universal one.
Also I got rid of the trigorilla board years ago and I went with an MKS running smoothiware. OMG what a difference! It is so easy to upload a new configuration file, I got this printer totally dialed in. It is printing the best it ever has.
I don't mean to hijack your thread but here is a link to my carriages. They are belt tensioners also.
I hope this helps a little.
Oh and by the way, the rod end mounting points on my carriages and effectors are 52mm's wide, so you don't need the copper spacers anymore. One less thing to worry about.

Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus carriage tensioner

another thing to watch out for, if you have the linear bearings...
Once in a while, like once every couple of months or so, dribble some light weight oil down the tracks in the linear bearings. There are tiny recirculating balls in there and it will dry up and bind eventually. I use a toothpick - I'm talking about a tiny amount of oil, but it definitely helps.

I've tried to replace the carriages with ones in your design. Indeed it stabilizes a little bit, but I still have the wiggle in the effector, mainly due to the issue which I reported with the ball bearings at the ball/rod joint. I asked for some custom rods for my printer on aliexpress and some seller agreed to make them 267 mm. I will give a try with a magnetic effector first, so I will try this design at the beginning It is quite simple and I hope it will work just fine.

I am also thinking seriously to order one set of these --> and try to replace the entire carriage/effector thing. However, for this I will need to find a good fan shroud and an E3D v6 hotend. I don't know how I will do all of this, but I am thinking that avoiding to print any component would be a good idea, as I don't have another 3D printer and my printer seems to have a little bit of issue with keeping the accuracy for prints. Still, I am thinking how to solve the issue with the bed leveling, as in this situation, (with the changing of the effector plate completely), I would not be able to mount the anycubic probe anymore.

Anycubic Kossel Magnetic Arms Kit

I tried that magnetic rod design by spikelee. Don't do it. Seriously, it was a complete disaster. Others have commented on that design saying the same. Do something like this instead Magnet on the rod side means the magnetic field is always aligned with the rod giving you the full strength of the magnet no matter the angle.

That's a great idea, I already contacted the guy and I think I will order the 288 mm rods. I know, they are bigger, but let's hope that they will work fine. Now the issue is that I need to find some adapters for this printer for the magballs as I don't want to change the effector if I can.
There was a guy who posted in that he found some models on thingiverse about adaptation of magballs, but I am not able to find those. Does anyone knows? The pictures with the adaptation are posted in this post:

It can also be the carriages. There's multiple files for upgraded versions that should help decrease the wobble. For the leveling, it can be the bed. Check to see if it's warped or has inconsistencies. Also check the surface the bed is laying on to make sure its not throwing off anything.

Are you sure your rods are the cause. When you have wiggle it can be the connection between the rod and the plate. Look if your brass bushes are sitting tight. If not you didn't tightened the screws enough. Be careful you don't use to much force but if you use reasonable force and there is still room, check your screws en threats.