Kossel restored

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Hi everybody,

Me and my son (12 years old) refurbished an old anycubic Kossel plus. It has become very beautiful. It has turned black with yellow.
I changed the motherboard to a bigtreetech skr V 1.3 with three TMC2208 for the axles and a DRV8825 for the extruder.
And a BigTreeTech TFT24 v1.1 display to top it off.
Now I have started working on the firmware and am having some trouble getting it all right.

First of all, it is true that the BigTreeTech TFT24 v1.1 display cannot operate in two modes (original display mode and the TFT mode). Is there a solution for that yet? or is it choosing what default it will be for me.

In the Configuration.h I can't manage to set the "Step_per_mm" on 40 steps. after loading the firmware it is 80 steps. (I now change that in the display).

When I click on "Auto Calibration" in the display. Then the printer probes off center. about 20mm right towards you.

I tried to print despite everything. A flat round disc of 80 mm dia and 1 mm high. But after everything was heated up and the print started I didn't see a nice disk but a thick lump of PLA (center-right- away from you).

a bit of a shame, it went so well.

Maybe someone is kind enough to look through my Configuration.h and my Configuration_adv.h, and maybe see something that's not right.
you would do a great job with that.


I have tft24 and its operates on both modes. You can change it at any time "live", but you have to connect both set of display cables (tft and lcd). Also you need proper firmware directly in tft24 provided by BTT for those modes.

So you have Ferrrari with max speed of 10 mph. Why 40 steps on such a powerful configuration with 32bit board and 256 steps drivers?
You have misalignment between hardware and software steps, thats why you have your printer head all over the place.

First you need to explain your board over driver slots pins how many hardware steps has a driver (over MS 1,2,3), than you have to "clear it out" with Marlin what hw do you have (over steps/mm). In 2208 case you have hw "preparation" and sw "conclusion" for drivers.

Here is how to install Marlin and pin table for BTT 1.3: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.3/BIGTREETECH%20SKRV1.3%20guide%202019%20-%206.pdf

Preparing 2208: https://www.instructables.com/TMC2208-UART-on-BigTreeTechBIQU-SKR-V11-and-V13-Co/

Great video for you, you can use it on delta too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duNHOPlh2Pg

My 5c: go for lv8729. Its very cheap, all hw, 1/128 are more than enough for deltas, kids level installation etc...

I'm learning plenty from this thread myself. Your experience is greatly appreciated DL!

Hi Nonaak,
Not sure if it helps but I uploaded my Marlin config on my Kossel Linear Plus project here. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4378296).
It also has a selection of useful upgrades and components on it which you might find useful. I have a pair of Kossel Linear Plus's and a Tronxy X5S running on Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 or 1.4 boards and so far, all have proven reliable. I daresay some people have an issue with a board and that tends to make them mistrust that manufacturer but I think they're pretty reasonable boards for the money. My two Kossels have been running for over a year on the SKR boards and the Tronxy around 2 years.
The config above might help with some comparisons to your configs although I haven't tried using a TFT as I use Octoprint and hardly ever use the printer controller interface so the knob and screen work for me.

Kossel Linear Plus SKR 1.3 and various upgrades

Thanks for the info. very interesting. I will be working on it again this weekend and certainly with your tips. Now during the week I am very busy with work, leaving early and home late.


Thanks for chiming in on Nonaak's thread. I followed your link, and the SKR fan shroud gave me some ideas to finish off my own design.

Thanks for sharing!

Hi, No problem, hope you get some use out of the design. I always got a bit paranoid with the 2208 overheating so the ventilation is probably a bit overkill but the exhaust temperature is not even warm so it must be working. Never had a print fail due to stepper glitches anyway. It keeps the moving air awy from cooling the heatbed too, which is a problem with the OEM setup.

First off Bigtreetech is not a good option. They have massive fail records. Your troubles might be involved in incorrect working eeprom from the board (btt tends to have failed eeproms). They do not save options properly e.g. 80 istead 40 steps.
Second off, you cant really change anything via TFT on btt board, you need to stick with usb terminal and gcode marlin commands then maybe it will work
That's IF you insist in going to failed bigtreetech journey.

I've sent off all of those boards right away and replaced with MKS.
My advice is to do the same, return the board and replace with something else, btt is junk.

Hm... I have 3 BTT SKR (mini, 1.3 and 1.4 turbo) and none problems with them. i.e. 1.3 has over 1500 hours on anycubic delta.
I have noticed Marlin has flows and bugs but boards...
You have to try Lerdge boards... those are real pain...

i am happy with the bigtreetech board. I know about the eeprom but that is solved by setting the settings to sd, and maybe an external eeprom. I just have that board and don't really feel the urge to buy another one. And every brand has something to complain about. About the TFT it's nice when it works, but my world won't end if it isn't. Maybe someone has a modded firmware for it, I can always ask anyway

You are correct. None of your specific firmware problems would be solved by changing system board brands.

To be honest i would stay with trigorilla mainboard.... it's more than enough for kossel.

For basic 1/16 steps and slower speeds - yes.
Anything more than that - problems.

I don't have that anymore

Hi nonaak, It's a great project to get into with your son. Deltas can be very aggravating though. My AKLP pisses me off every time it needs maintenance, and I'm also in the middle of a rebuild.

I'll try to help as much as I can.

My first question is about the probe. Two official versions were sold over the years. Can you post a picture or link to the one you are using?

The ANYCUBIC_PROBE_VERSION is set to 2 in your configuration.h, which puts the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET at { -3.7, 2.12, -15.7 } on line 1135. I want to make sure you are using a probe that needs those numbers.

I use 2209s in the BTT SKR 1.4 that replaced my old Trigorilla board, so I don't have specific experience with your 2208s or the 8825 on your extruder.

I'll also leave the TFT24 advice for someone else, and have to skip the steps per mm for the moment.

Thank you for your answer. I have probe 2. the blue one I had already checked. the 2209 has the extra option that you do not have to use end stops, otherwise it is almost the same as the 2208. and the SKR 1.4 has the option that you can plug a wifi module on it. but I am using Octoprint.

That's great about our setups being similar. I've had the SKR & 2209's working just fine for a while, and also use Octoprint for my terminal. I've had two printers for a while, and am about to set up a 3rd & 4th (after finishing my AKLP rebuild). Managing all those without Octoprint would be cumbersome.

The most important habit I have learned with compiling and flashing firmware, is to M502/M500 twice with every reflash. This obviously wipes your Delta Calibration and ABL, so I don't bother with the full probe routines again until I've fine tuned configuration.h for whatever #define I'm adjusting. I did allot of recompiling and reflashing last weekend to dial in my DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET, and that was my solution for getting frequent and fine the adjustments to take hold.

Also, I was able to get reliable EEPROM storage by commenting #define PRINTCOUNTER (line 1797 in your conf). Disabling that prevents marlin from storing print statistics over your level mesh and such. I know you are using SD Card settings at this point, but that is another way of solving the problem of corrupt EEPROM.