Failed prints - My top 5 fails

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After first bottle of resin I have some points about failed prints for you. So how can your print fail and how to solve the problem.

1, I have found first couple layers stuck on the bottom of a vat - this is the most often problem that happened to me. It appears usually after failed print. Your calibration is off a bit and your first layer is not aligned correctly and it peels off. Your calibration can become disaligned usually then buildplate is not thightened enough and you are removing item from it, or maybe there is a piece of cured resin on the bottom of your vat from previous fail, that you did not scoop out. Recalibrate and try again. Also clean your vat and recalibrate after each failed print.

2, unfinished part of print is stuck on the bottom of vat - this is pretty similar to first case, but cause is completly different. In DLP printing your print is holding on the top of buildplate by suction force. This force is usually enough to hold your print up. But if total area of layer printed is bigger than area of first layer, it can happen, that this suction on the bottom vat is stronger and your print will get torn off. From now last layer wil be cured again an again. best method to fix this problem is rotate your print and print in angle. If you have long straight smooth surfaces and you do not want lines on them, print them perpendicular to buildplate. use supports and raft, that is bigger than your model if necessary. In this case supports should be sturdy enough to hold your print.

3, raft is stuck on buildplate, part of model is stuck on vat - this happens when your upport are not strong enough to overcome suction force from previous example. Add more suppports, use some heavy supports if there is space where they can be easily removed.

4, model is warped and shifted - your buildplate is not thightened enough and if got moved while printing. recalibrate and thighten it thoroughy

5, part of model is squashed and flat or missing - you have unsuported overhang. This should result in part being not printed at all and its projection stuck on bottom of vat, but sometimes printer manage to glue part back to model and separate it. Always support overhangs, especially "islands"

This is it, 5 mos usual non-technical printing fails with enycubic photon.

I had two fails due to an uneven table, approx. 5 degrees lean. The basic level tool helped out.
Here is my full Photon Mono X review and images.

I think I have a new issue not described in your post. I have the LCD screen gradually cure on the FEB while printing. I have no idea why this is happening and if it might be the Monocure3D Rapid Model Resin (Grey) that's at fault. The build plate is definitely levelled properly, I've replaced the FEP twice. I have no issue with the model sticking to the build plate (even though the image below shows a failure, that was my own fault). Any ideas from you good folk would be appreciated.

What causes this kind of fail? How do I correct it? One side printed perfectly. The other has a gap as seen in the pics.

For number 2, I found that the easiest solution is to add a single-layer "raft". I took the 20mm test cube and resized it to 0.05 mm thick and nearly build plate size and added it. Never had anything fall off since I have this in every print. Much easier to remove than the normal raft and uses less resin, too. To remove the print from the build plate, slide a (gloved!!) fingernail under one corner (those corners lift almost by themselves) to make space for the scraper, then push the scraper along.

Probably needs an extended bottom exposure time as it's just one layer. I had mine quite high (90) already and never tested lowering it.

Hi! You may have covered this already and I'm just not understanding, so please let me know if you've already gone over this. I've been using my Photon for only a few days, first couple of prints with the included green resin (the rest print and a small "cute dragon" I downloaded from here) worked fantastically. I drained the resin back into the tank and switched to Monoprice Rapid grey as I plan to use it mostly for tabletop miniature parts. The first print (a Space Marine doing a dab, downloaded from here) went really well. Since then I've not been able to make anything print properly. I tried to print a couple of tanks for Battletech (Manticore and Schrek, both also from here) both with and without supports; the tank bodies all fell off the platform, and the turrets without supports did as well. The turrets with supports hung on but were ribbed by I assume the cured portions on the tanks floating in the resin. I cleaned the resin out of the vat, scraped and cleaned the vat with IPA and the included black plastic scraper and let the whole thing dry. Reassembled and refilled with the same Monoprice Rapid grey and tried a mech model (Nightstar found on here). Both times it has come out half formed, like the model gets to the knees of the mech and just stops. I've included attached pictures - one shows the build plate with the half-finished model, the other is the scrap from the bottom of the vat. Any advice? Am I calibrated wrong, or is something else going on? All models were printed with medium supports and .025 layer height. Any help would vee greatly appreciated!

Hello, I would like to ask you about the problem number 1.
I still have a problem with sticking the first layer on the Vat instead of the platform.
But It's happens just when I'm using white resins.
It repeats all the time, whether it's Original Anycubic resin or Monocure 3D Rapid or 3D-Okay UV, even though I've modified the print settings according to a table (in attachment).
I've also tried a recalibration, cleaning of Vat and the buildplate but nothing helped me.
I'm already desperate and I do not know what to do next.
Is there some way to increase the suction force on buildplate, or lower it on Vat?
Are the settings in the table right?
Or should I try replace Vat for a new one?

I had the issue and found that I had to rehome the platform to allow the resin to stick to the build plate. then works fine with black, white, gun metal and other colors.

hard to tell where is a problem, my vat is already a bit damaged and ready for FEP change, but I can still draw out some nice finishes, even with monocure rapid white. Maybe using some kind of raft would help. Also there can be problem with overcuring the resin.

Quick and easy answer for Problem 1 or 2:
In every case after every print and every new start of an print: Clean the Vat (Feb Foil) - surface with the black scapel (included) first. I never had any problems like that. I always wipe everything out of the Vat with the remaining liquid resin in it. Quick and easy.

Problem 3, and 5 sounds like an problem with the liquid and the right parameters. Be aware that every resin has to stir properly before use.

Number 4 is answered by yourself. You have to follow the manual.

all problems are answered :)

What does "Recalibrate" mean in this context? Is it Levelling, or do you also mean tuning the exposure settings?

I am not writing here about exposure settings at all, there are two main reaons, first is, that every resin has it own properties, second is, that I do not have experience in this issue yet. I only used default resin and now I am trying third party, but I am not satisfied (but it is probably problem of resin)

calibration of buildplate leveling:

  • remove vat
  • untighten leveling screw
  • go home
  • put paper under cleaned buildplate
  • move buildplate down by 0.1mm until you cannot move paper without moving buildplate, if you move paper and you feel drag and buildplate is turning with paper, that is right position
  • turn buildplate, so it is parallel with screen (or chasis, it does not to be totally precise,)
  • tighten screw (with one hand hold head, with other hand screw up screw and then tighten it with long side of tool facing you)
  • save zero
  • go up 10mm several times (cca 13, but dont push button vigorously!)
  • return vat and tighten it in position

In the 5th step you say to move build plate down until you can not move the paper. That is way too tight! If you do this you will break the LCD glass. When you first encounter noticeable drag - STOP!
If you hit the Z down (0.1mm increment) one time to many after first encountering drag, you can break the LCD. Ask me how I know :-(

Waiting on AnyCubic to respond to my request to purchase a replacement.

until you cannot move it without moving buildplate. buildplate will move with your paper if you pull it a bit, but paper still can be moved.

I will mark it with bold and clarify.

Probably a dumb idea, but what if you spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on the FEP before pouring in the resin? It couldn't possibly stick to it then. If the oil contaminates the resin, perhaps a light rub with wax? I have no idea if either are transparent to UV.
I'm getting a bit frustrated with this printer.

I saw a video by The CrafsMan where he put PTFE Lubricant on his FEP. He said this worked like a charm, but I haven't tried it myself yet. He first says you could try sanding the build plate, but then says to try this first. I would re-iterate that you should probably only sand your build plate as a last resort since, chances are you would not be able to sand it perfectly flat and possibly create new problems for yourself.