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Marlin 2.0.6 released with Trigorilla Pro support

by rq3

At last! If you already have configuration. h and configuration_adv.h files, they need only slight modifications before compiling under PlatformIO.

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Issues after setting z to zero with auto level

by vapordub

So the issue I'm currently running into is posted in video form below because I'm not sure how to describe it really. But for some background I will say that I set z to zero using a piece of A4 paper manually and then when probing to auto level the machine begins to dance I guess. I have tried to re-flash the stock firmware from anycubic's site by transferring the files into the root folder of the sd card and loading it into the printer and hitting print.

https://youtu.be/nYbusWPVdxQ

#predator anycubic anycubic d anycubic predator
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Marlin 2.0.6 Bugfix

by rq3

Marlin 2.0.6 does NOT run directly on the Predator Trigorilla Pro. It will compile and load, but doesn't work in many ways. The issues are being addressed, and will, I'm sure, be resolved.

However, the latest bugfix (nightly build) DOES work, if:
1) you set the build environment in the platformio.ini file to trigorilla_pro
2) you use the config:examples:delta:anycubic:predator files AND
3) flip the display 180 degrees in configuration_adv.h AND
4) set the touchscreen Y offset to 75 in configuration.h

The touchscreen offsets need fine tuning, and the pads are flipped left to right. I'm working on that, but the result is usable, and the screen actually almost makes more sense to me. In any case, the printer does it thing quite well, Marlin has a lot of feedback to work on, they respond incredibly fast to requests for help on GitHub, and the world hasn't exploded.

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Here's why I wouldn't buy a Predator ever again

by FrostStudios

Got mine for 4 weeks now. Spent around the same amount of money again to make it work properly

  • Extruder swings way too much, resulting in rough prints
  • Bed adhesion, it's non existant ( bad quality control ) - had to get a replacement, same effect on the replacement
  • Power supply sucks, has only 62% efficiency ( 620 W of 1000 W )
  • Power supply was configured wrong - pushed 25V to the motors and mosfet
  • Proprietary firmware - no way to adjust the steps of the motors
  • No TL smoothers ( which you would expect from a machine for over 600 bucks )
  • Crap hotend ( J5 clone )
  • Extruder no bueno
  • Auto-levelling is a joke, had to use home tools to get it even
  • Some screws on the delta arms were not to be tightened
  • Fans are crap, way too loud
  • Cooling part for the nozzle is another joke, not really cooling the parts needed, resulting in burned plastic blobs etc
  • No light in the print chamber
  • MOSFET sucks, had to replace it with a good one ( don't want to burn down my house )
  • Ball bearings of the arms get wasted quick
  • Belts were way too loose
  • 0.4mm nozzle is a big fuckin joke for the given print volume
  • The aluminium block on the machine for the nozzle is positioned wrongly - it will cool the hotend off

Fun fact: Checked the website today, they are selling the predator now only to Russia and Australia, and UK. That should tell you something.
For this price ( and the addons ) I'd really go for a Monoprice Delta or another one. Just not this crap ( well, the case is sturdy but you can build that on your own for less money )

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Rainy Day Predator Mods

by rq3

Since I'm heavily involved in attempting to get my Predator to run under Marlin 2.0.6 (it runs 2.0.5.3 just fine), I'm constantly swapping the jumpers on the Trigorilla Pro board to enable flashing. That got old, so:

1) With the top off of the machine, I soldered two model aircraft servo leads to a C&K 7201 switch (2PST), and plugged the servo plugs into the board. The vent holes in the top of the case are big enough to mount the switch, so no drilling or other mods were required. When the switch is UP (program position), the +5V/USB jumper pins are in the USB position, and the P1 jumper position is open. When the switch is DOWN (run position), the +5V/USB jumper pins are in the +5V position, and the P1 jumper is closed.

2) While I had the lid off, I moved the filament detector to inside the case. Every now and then, the dangling cable, or even the filament, would snag the connector and rip it out during the start of a print. Unplug the sensor, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Remove the short length of bowden tube from it's holder, and swap the holder so that it is screwed in under the top where the sensor used to be (its plastic liner acts as a gentle surface for the filament). With a 0.149 inch diameter (#25) drill bit, CAREFULLY ream out the hole for the filament at the TOP of the sensor, and press fit, by hand, the short length of bowden tube into the reamed out hole. DO NOT drill too far! You can open the switch housing if you feel safe doing so. The housing halves are a snug press fit after you remove the two screws holding it to the bracket. Now just reverse the bracket, and use the original screws to fasten it inside the machine, paying attention to the filament direction arrow on the switch case, and the alignment of the sensor filament hole and the re-positioned bowden holder. Fish the connector up into the machine, and plug it back into the sensor. Screw the top back on the machine, and trim the bowden tube so that it sticks out about an inch.

Done. It all took about an hour, and now I don't have to take the lid off to re-flash the board, and filament sensor is hidden out of the way.

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