Anybody have any idea what the problem is with this surface finish. Predator is stock aside from TL smoothers installed.
Check wheels (flat spots), belts (tension) and inside of Vslot (dirt). Try without TL-smoothers.Try lower speeds to check.
Did the skellatore tear down and tower tweak with electronics upgrade (https://github.com/skellatore/anycubic-predator). Prints are much better now! Tower guide bearings where pretty tight in extruded aluminum (would not free fall when upright and not connected to motor). So all I did was use some steel wool to smooth out roller surface (I have painted towers), adjust roller tension so that X,Y and Z carriage would almost free fall in tower taking special care to make sure there was no slop, and shorted out ROSC resistor on board for X, Y and Z axis. Strange artifacts I was seeing are gone, can hardly see any salmon skin (have 8 diode TL Smoothers installed). 2 or 3 of the roller bearings for the carriage's now have a flat spot in them probably because of how tight they were shipped from factory. I will order new ones and replace soon. Great printer after a couple tweaks!
When you say "Tower guide bearings where pretty tight in extruded aluminum" , can you provide photo of this bearing and how to adjust? I'm seeing the same salmon skinning on my prints so wondering if something it too tight on my printer.
If you look at this guide (https://github.com/skellatore/anycubic-predator) it tells you what to do. You can adjust the X,Y and Z carriages in place (that is what the wrench is for, that came with printer). One side of each carriage has no adjuster while the other side has a hex nut you can adjust that can be accessed between carriage and tower while on machine (see attached photo). I would recommend taking belt tensioner off to check each carriage free of the motor, and adjust each carriage so that they can free fall in each tower but not have any slop in them. Adjuster is a cam effect, depending on which side of the lobe your on will determine which way is tighter or more loose, just turn a bit and check if it got tight or loose.
rebel2234, thanks for the nudge! My Predator is already fairly heavily modified, and I get great prints from it. But your post prompted me to do the 10Kohm R49 "short" fix to force the stepper driver decay mode. I'd heard of this for a while, but never got around to it until today.
I managed to do it with the board installed in the printer.
The increase in print quality is...amazing!
Do you have before and after prints to show the quality increase with the 10Kohm R49 "short" fix?
Is there a step by step guide to do this mode?
See the attached photo. The Benchy on the left is before, and the Benchy on the right is after shorting the R49 resistors, which control the decay mode. You need really good eyes and a steady hand to either remove the resistors and replace them with a tiny piece of wire, or apply a blob of solder to the top of the resistors while they are in place (which is what I did), but I do alot of surface mount soldering under a stereo microscope.
The printer is not only "smoother", but much quieter.