Ramps 1.4 not working with power supply

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Here is a youtube diy I came across: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0KahplrX4E

And an Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-a-fried-Arduino-Mega/

This is what you want, of course, this is for 50 of them only $6:


You could get little ready to go boards, like these, and 5v regulators are ALWAYS useful for all kinds of projects, these drop 7-12v down to 5v, but really you just need the little IC:


You might have better luck scavenging parts for less bulk or trying ebay, the part number is "ams1117-5.0" You could also probably get away with an lm7805 or even several diodes in a row, but wouldn't condone that.... Just use USB power to the Arduino and 12v to the RAMPS. Did you also check the fuses on the RAMPS, the 2 Yellow thingies..

First. Like I am sure 100 other people are going to tell you. Drop the 2560 and ramps and get a MKS gen 1.4. It's a cheap, reliable, purpose built all in one board, for 3d printing, so there's no need to shield a micro controller with a ramps. The board is also setup just very similar to ramps so if you're comfortable using ramps this is an easy transition.

To answer your question you're regulator is probably blown. They go out all the time on those knock off 2560's. Just get an all in one. The 8 extra bucks you'll pay for the board will be well worth it when you're house doesn't catch fire.

IMHO Ramps vs MKS is 6 one way half dozen the other. MKS board JST and Ramps uses Dupont. So really how hard it is to setup depends on what kind of connectors you have.

Sounds like you may have blown the 5V regulator on the mega2560 board. Just get another 5V supply and plug it in to Vcc on the ramps and you should be ok. Ideally, snip pins or cut traces to the burnt regulator as well, in case it failed in a way that draws current. Also, take time to double/triple check connections. By reversing the endstop and clicking, you shorted out the 5v regulator.

I don't work with arduino that much, so sorry in advance. It doesn't look like it is blown out or not working, but if it is could I possibly repair the 2560 board by ordering a 5V Mosfet and re-solder it? Or do I need an external source?

Would this work? Connect to the power supply and then to the 2560.


Yeah, sounds like the AMS117 5v reg. Does it work with usb power? If so, that is a near guarantee of a dead regulator. If you look at it (black chip with 2 pins on one side, 1 on the other near the usb & DC connector, will actually be 2 of them, a 5v and a 3.3v) you might see just a little dot on it, that means blown. Of course, might not be, but those ALWAYS go, ESPECIALLY when you reverse polarity to the 2560, in fact, pretty sure they say NOT to reverse the polarity all over the Ramps wiki's and how-to's :) I removed the Diode that powers the 2560 from Ramps and just power it via USB, as I blew that same regulator THREE TIMES! :) Easy to fix though.

I'd say I hope it isn't blown, but honestly, that is the best thing that could happen, you can usually scrounge up a replacement from old equipment laying around and be up and going in no time, where other issues could be a board killer. The other possibility is that you have a short somewhere, but usually, those manifest by powering on, then dimming all the leds quickly til it is off.

Oh, no one ever filled me in on this part when I went through these issues... f you need a new 5 volt regulator, check any other Arduino gear you might not be using, a lot of people have the little DC power board for a breadboard, which have them. If you upgraded from an Anet board, you will find one on it also. And from that point, check old boards you have, can find a lot of the regulators on CD/DVD drives. Pretty much anything that uses low power, though the 3.3 volt ones are more common, or you can get a bag of regulators for a few bucks off Amazon.

The TOBSUN unit provides way more current than what your Mega2560 would need. It's also quite large. You can get a buck/boost regulator for less cash and not take up as much space. Connect your 12VDC to the input side and adjust the potentiometer to 5V on the output side. You would need access to a digital multimeter for the adjustment, a worthwhile investment if you are working on small electronics. With a DVM you can easily check the existing regulator to see if it is blown.


Just in case the chip is blown and you wish to replace it, it is a +5v LDO regulator, not a mosFET. I checked the Arduino site and pulled up the specs of the Mega2560, the NCP1117ST50T3G regulator can be purchased from Mouser for about $0.47. As truglodite mentioned it requires a good soldering iron or reflow workstation to do the job with ease.


Reworking a regulator on most modern 2560 boards is not easy to do, since they mostly have larger surface mount packages soldered to decently sized ground planes. So unless you are good with a rework station, you would be better off just cutting the regulator pins and soldering a T220 packaged regulator with heatsink over the top of it. Although, there won't be much room to do this with a ramps board, and if you decide to upgrade to a reprap discount full graphic controller you will have to upgrade your regulator anyways.

That regulator you linked to looks perfect! I really like the price and form factor for printers compared to units for remote control hobbies. It doesn't specify if they have common ground or not. More than likely they do, but if not you can probably just put a small wire between the 2 (-) pins and it will work.

Also, you can probably get away with the 3A unit since the biggest draw on the 5V line is typically LCD screens (full graphics display draws ~1A continuous). Though getting the 10A for $2 more would give you lots of overhead. The extra power may save you from headaches later on if you decide you want to add upgrades that draw significant 5V current (like neopixels, relays, octopi, etc.).

Also, your onboard regulator doesn't have to look blown to be blown, but usually they do smell funny. You may also see some deformation of the dupont connectors for the endstop switch due to heating from a large current that was drawn through them. To take the guessing out of it, you can measure voltage between Vcc and gnd with it plugged in to the psu; it should be putting out a 4.8-5.2V for everything to be happy.

Thanks for all your replies, I would have been lost without them. I'll let you know if this works :)

is it one of the PC(Personal Computer) style PSU's(Power Supply Unit), which have the option for 110 or 220, if you are on 110 AC power, and have it switched to 220, it will flop on you, same if you are on 220, and have it switched to 110. If you are in the USA, then you are probably running 110 to your outlet, and need to make sure of the specs/settings for your PSU. I personally run a 450W PSU, with the yellow solid, and yellow & black stripe(4 wires) put into the 12V Positive (red on my printer), and then 4 black wires connected to the negative on my printer. I like it for the 120mm fan built in, and maintaining better current flow. I have burrned up the basic 10 and 15 amp power supplies, and that is why I changed over to a high wattage PSU. but I also have a 20Amp power supply for when this one dies.

In the image the switch is on the long narrow side, under the yellow arrow in the middle. I hope your problem is this simple.

The power supply is one where you have the option of 110 or 220v. I did have it on 110 and I am on 110 AC. I got it working fine for a while it just happened after I plugged the endstop in the wrong way.

why mess around with soldering when you can bay 5 boards for 23 euro i did the same when i plug my end stops in the wrong way in then i look her just unbelievable prices and all the info you will need to get it working and the service is section to nun