Well hello all :-) I have a z603s and want to bring it upto 2018 spec :-) because the design is a couple of years old it's missing things like removable bed / filament sensor etc,, enclosure so I thought I would have a go at improving it.
So far I've fitted a removable bed. This is a printinz bed and I've designed up some abs bed holders. Seems to work okay, might need to tweak the front clip a little... Second, I'm halfway through enclosing the printer off for ABS. Some photos below.
And last of all will be autobed leveling :-) got my BL Touch probe on order..
Hi, did you release the files for the side and front panels would love to print and use on my machine :)
Good luck on getting them to release the firmware. You may have to mod your own version of Marlin.
I have my own version hopefully :-) I'll keep you informed
So.. I've got the latest Marlin 1.1.6 firmware all working :-)
Couldn't have done it without Samuel Pinches original work. I moved everything over but had to change the endstop pins and alter a couple of other things but it's fully working now :-)
Just doing some final tweaking then I'll release to all..
That’s amazing. Good work. Is there actually a populated connection for a bed leveling probe?
Well, I'm going to be using the z opto connection (z min) for the prob and Sam says I should be able to use the extruder 2 pin for the servo. I've not done that bit yet but know it's arduino pin 9 anyway... thought I better just get this working to start with.
Just going to try a print now.. if all okay I'll upload the source somewhere.
okay, I'm happy it's not going to break something :-) Done my first print.
This has been tested on the GREEN motherboard, not sure if the first one is different?
Let me know if you use it..
I will definitely try this but I will probably use one of those cheap proximity switches. I did the Sam bed mod.... should register nicely. How many points did you set up on your mesh bed leveling?
I'm excited to see how you go with the auto bed leveling! The OEM bed is more crooked than Donald Trump! :-P
Yes, the original z603-S blue board had a completely different pinout, so I had to do the whole pin reverse-engineering twice to get a new marlin build running. The original blue board came with a really old version of marlin and would crash randomly half way through a print... was very frustrating. I spoke with JGAurora and they refused to release the source code, which is breaking the GPL agreement, but they don't care about that at all....
Anyway, the green board is much better, and has much better drivers, and better cooling for the drivers too.
Hi All.. Well it's done and working :-) I need to add my filament out sensor but the autolevel is done.
So, I went for the BL Touch, or my clone which is a black one called 3D Touch. I got it off eBay link below;
It comes with cables etc.. but I had to solder on three pins to the Y MAX socket which is empty. I also had to change the wire order in the servo cable.. and the switch cable from the 3D Touch.
So.. the servo cable (3 wires) are ordered Neg / Sig / Pos.. with neg being the outside of the board. The Y-Max is pin 3 so I set this in the firmware.. The switch cable (2 wires) need to be Neg and Signal which go into the Z min socket.
I'll add the STL files here for the touch holder. :-) and below is a link to the zip firmware with it already enabled... Just becareful of the z-offset, you may need to change this. Activate it by putting a G29 in your start gcode after the G28 (Home) command.
FIRMWARE STANDARD (NO BL TOUCH)http://diyrc.co.uk/files/Marlin-1.1.6-Z603S.zip
FIRMWARE WITH BL TOUCH ENABLEDhttp://diyrc.co.uk/files/Marlin-1.1.6-BLTOUCH.zip
You might notice I've also soldered three pins into the Z Max socket on the board.. I'll be using this for the filament sensor I hope.
Can you please tell me if there is a difference between your board and mine. I did some researching and found that there are three types of boards two greens and one blue. I have the green one that has individual heat sinks for the stepper drivers instead of one long continuous heat sink like you probably have. any help would be very helpful thank you.
And a little video of it in action....
Ok, hats off. Really impressed with this mod. I do have one question on your BL touch.... I noticed that the sensor pin didn’t appear to retract very far... after the last bed probe.... will it run into the print? Can it be adjusted?
Hi, it does retract but it sits about 1mm above the nozzle. Doesn't get in the way but it only seems to trigger about 1mm below the nozzle so it's really close either side.
It might be because it's a clone. I can alter the mount height for you if need, if you find yours different if you want to give it a go. You just need to make sure you have the same motherboard.. and add those pins.
I've been having a little think about the filament out sensor and will be looking to use the old z endstop.. so I might change the pins over so it uses the same socket as it does now.. will have to decide..
I would love to put the extruder fan onto an automatic pin but not sure how to yet.. it's connected directly to the 12v terminals on the PSU. Its not a massive problem just would like to be able to turn it off after a long print. If it's 12v (not checked) might be able to use one of them external MOSFET boards.. need to research some more....
I'm really pleased so far.. now with removable bed and auto level :-) if I can do the above two things and finish my enclosure this will be a fantastic printer :-)
I like this mod you've done CdRsKull, hopefully it compensates for the somewhat banana-bent OEM build plate.
To be honest, I think the extruder head really needs a complete redesign - the large heater block prevents there from being enough space to make a 360 degree part cooling duct, which is another mod I had wanted to do. Also, the access to the filament path is also frustrating, as you have to have to remove the fan each time... sigh.
I was just thinking of making a 360 degree duct. I had to replace my heater block as I snapped off a nozzle when trying to replace it due to my inexperience. I had a cheap one lying around which is a bit smaller. Anyone found a duct that might fit? otherwise if I can, will have a go at designing something. Removable bed is definitely a necessary upgrade.
I don't have anything.... I tried but couldn't get anything that I was happy with due to the lack of clearance. Good luck! Let us know how you go!
I never bothered in the end but i'm actually in the process of upgrading mine to use the E3D Hemera extruder. I want to be able to print flexible materials and run higher temps too for more variety of options. It's a bit challenging, so far I have had to flip over the carriage as the heat break is shorter and the nozzle wouldn't reach past the bottom of the carriage. The belt now runs over the top. fitted the end stop onto the new top of the carriage, To clear the belt, will have to mount it sideways. I hope I can reconfigure the firmware so the X motor is reversed. Will need to create some sort of bracket to fix it all on, then find out how to mount a fan and nozzle. May be better off making a different carriage if its too difficult to adapt the existing one. This is the first time I uncovered the control board and was pleased to see how sturdy it is toward more recent machines like the Ender 3 for instance. It certainly seems industrial and the wiring too is thicker than others. Mine has the single heatsink with all drivers connected to it.