Just finished my second doll ever! Her name is Kamila. She is 1/6 scale
Ok so I played around with the jointed hand that can be found on here and made it into a 1/3 bjd size
I printed and tested it, works pretty well, looks cool, but I'm not happy with
All the sanding and after processing. I wonder if I could print each
finger bit a different way so there is less support. Anyhow
I used .7mm elastic and its just a tad to big for the pinky.
I think best would be .5mm , I will upload the file at a later date once I
Perfect it! But for now here are some photos, let me know what you all think.
I am finished printing all the parts for my doll https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184441
and I cannot string her because I am having trouble getting s hooks that I can use, I bought a few different sets of hooks on Amazon but they all seem to be made of steel and are impossible to bend to my needs.
The calf part of the leg only has a hole with a thickness of a large straw and none of the hooks I had already purchased and tried wont even fit. I just would like to know what other people are doing to make or get hooks for their dolls.
Is there any interest in making a mechanical doll with arm and head movement?
Danny Choo, founder of Smartdoll, started working on one back in 2014, but it seems the project has been shelved for now. See it here.
He also did a much simpler version that uses pulleys and a backpack. See it here.
If anyone is interested in picking up where he left off, it would be fun to put together a team.
Seems like the traditional method for a faceup on resin dolls is to apply a layer of sealant (like Mr Super Clear) and then use your chalk, pastels, acrylic, or whatever else for details. Once finished apply another layer of sealant and you're good to go!
To fix a mistake or start over, simply use acetone or another solvent to clean off the sealant and paint.
The problem painted dolls have is the skin color would also come off with acetone.
How are all of you dealing with this? Is there any way to seal the faceup in a removable way that doesn't interfere with the painted skin tone?
Just wanted to say hello :) I'm currently trying to print bahboh's BJD at 40%. Experimenting with different layer heights and temperatures to get the best looking print.
This is my first attempt at anything BJD related and I'm feeling overwhelmed! I've actually been putting off attempting a doll for a while because it seems like a black hole I'm going to get sucked into when it comes to customizing. I can handle the technical stuff but I'm not as confident with the eyes, hair, makeup, and clothes.
I'm planning on getting some eyes from Etsy, making my own hair with yarn, and maaaaybe sewing a simple outfit like a sundress. I've never sewn anything so that is going to be an adventure. Makeup is going to be interesting as well as it is subtle and easy to do wrong.
Assuming I don't just bail and run away screaming, I'll post a new thread with some progress pictures once I get further along.
Can anyone recommend other communities or sources of information on making a BJD? I'm trying to absorb as much knowledge as I can!
Decided I wanted to give this a go... I've had my Prusa i3 MK3S for roughly 6 months now and during that time, I have printed a wide variety of materials....PLA, PETG, CPE, Nylons, TPU, etc. For whatever reason, I avoided printing with ABS mostly due to the purported stench of the burning styrene. I have an enclosure which I use all the time for my nylon prints, and never really had any major issues with warping or anything like that. But yea, avoided ABS....until now. I have been clicking through lots of BJD makes and all of them seem to be PLA which has been sanded many, many, many times to get that nice smooth finish. I thought, why not just print ABS and use acetone vapors to smooth the layer lines? Of course you need a good print to begin with.
I decided to pick a doll design I liked on Thingiverse and scale it from 1/3 to 1/6 since I wasn't sure how ABS would print. I'm using Hatchbox white ABS, btw. Then I decided I would just try printing a torso first, and maybe the head. I tried settings of 0.20mm layer heights just to get a feel for the ABS, but I have a smaller nozzle (0.25mm) that can print as low as 0.07mm without a hitch in PLA which I plan to eventually test. I just figured if I did a good enough job of smoothing the layer lines with the acetone, I wouldn't necessarily need to spend all those extra hours printing the fine layer lines.
First try with ABS was horrid. I suddenly thought to myself "wow this is why people dislike ABS!" For whatever reason, the entire print sagged, beginning with supports, until I had a nasty globby mess. LOL. I did some additional reading. I modified my Prusa Slic3r settings such that the cooling fan would be ON as needed. This improved SIGNIFICANTLY and I finally had a 'useable' torso.
Satisfied with having printed an actual useable part, I went ahead and tried vapor smoothing. Unfortunately I didn't have a good enough seal on my container, and it seemd only the front part of her torso got smoothed over. The back still had visible lines.
My next project will be to build the Acetone Smoothie which is available on Thingiverse using a stepper motor and a container (you want either a brushless motor or a stepper motor since a brushed motor can cause the acetone fumes to spark, and yea, that's a bit of a safety hazard.) The rotating stick should allow for more consistent vapor smoothing.
In the meantime, I also tried manually hand sanding the torso with a 400 grit sandpaper and ABS is WAY easier to sand than PLA. Like, insanely easier to sand.
I guess I am just curious why more people haven't tried using ABS to make these dolls? I would assume the primary reason is that people might not have heated bed/enclosures for their printers, or that they don't want to deal with making setting tweaks to get it to come out right? (Boy did I need to fiddle to get mine down...and I still have issues...) I know it also costs more than PLA but I feel like I'll be saving a lot of $ in personal time that would have other wise been spent sanding...
I have an airbrush leftover from my gareki (garage kit) resin scale model kit days with a decent compressor (I think they are Iwata brand?) and I plan to airbrush my doll and use chalk pastels for shading. I have some 1/6 scale doll wigs and eyes leftover from when I tried to get into this hobby when I was in highschool, about 12 years ago, but realized I'd never be able to afford an actual Japanese brand doll. I love that 3D printing makes BJDs more accessible. It would be cool to also try making a master 3D printed doll and then create silicone molds to cast the parts in whatever resin the actual "brand" ones are made of, as another random thought. Has anyone tried that?
I plan on sewing some clothes for my doll which I have never done before (I've only made clothes for adult humans, LOL) so that'll be interesting. I would be fun to try 3D printing a raincoat for a doll out of TPU since it's flexible. So many possibilities!
Finally, when I was about 19 or so, I lived in Sapporo for a brief time, and there was a Volks doll shop (or maybe it was Kotobukiya...I forget) down the street from my apartment. I would go there every day after class on my way home to stop and admire the dolls. I ended up buying a couple of 'souvenir' doll stuff there but it was mostly for those soft plastic 'bendable' dolls that had the wires in them. Maybe I could use some of those items (mostly the wigs) for my 1/6 scale 3D printed doll...
Will upload some photos shortly.....
Thought you'd like to see! I've attached before and after photos. It has taken so much effort to get to this point -- I did the wig myself with yarn, and the eyes with clay and resin. The faceup is done with chalk pastels and watercolor pencil.
The material used is Prusament PLA Bone White. Comes out a beautiful white with hint of yellow after sanding. After a LOT of sanding, I applied a few layers of Mr Super Clear before attempting any makeup.
bahboh, thank you so much for providing your design. Without it I would have never tried this. The head in the pictures is normal 1:3 scale and mostly serves as a learning tool... I'm not sure I'm going to make her into a full doll. My goal is a 1:6 doll and for that I'm using your design as a base but recreating the 3D mesh from scratch. There are some problems I ran into with wall thickness and joint tolerance when scaling the 1:3 model to 1:6 size, so I'd like to retopologize and address those issues.
I'm tempted to try a bit less usual stringing method as well, such as individual strings per joint... since we're 3D printing, the sky is the limit with some of the weird stuff we can pull off!