Recent Topics


by Unconquered

"The problem is not just to change the bed size.. but to make it work flawlessly.
i can only recommend something that i have designed, checked and made sure it will work (300mm bed).
before it published I spent more than a month on software simulating, another month of improving and again simulating.
that even before it was built - all to make sure it will work perfectly (balance, stress process and so on).
a few comments below, you will find an excellent solution for bigger beds that another member like me and you came with.
adding another Z extrusion can be wise for heavy (400mm+) Z/bed carriages" - BLV

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Filament Guide for CoreXY/BLV Printer with Direct Drive Extruder

by DarkTerritory

Hi Folks

Working on a CoreXY printer using a lot of the design of the BLV mgn. However, I'm going to use a Toranado direct drive extruder instead of a bowden setup.

This then bags the question, how to get the filament from the spool to the extruder without causing a mess? I was thinking about using a bowden tube as a guide, fixed vertically to the top frame and long enough to reach the far corners of the opposite side of the frame. The far end of the tube would 'float' on top of the Toranado, not directly fixed. My thought is that having the distance between the extruder and the fixed point of the bowden tube on the frame would keep the filament from unspooling and getting tangled.

But I'm wondering if the drag from the tube would interfere with the feed on the Toranado. It's a geared extruder so stronger than just a pinch wheel on a hobbed gear, but not a lot. Obviously I can try it out when everything is built, and I will, but as I'm still building at this point (most of the frame is together) I'm hoping the collective wisdom here may help me decide if this is a viable option.

I'm also open to other ideas, including ones that may not involve a bowden tube. Thanks for any opinions and ideas you might share.


BLV_MGN corexy direct_drive_extruder filament_guide
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Printer build finished, print results are horrible

by Heliart

My Cube is ready. Everything calibrated and I tried my first prints. All results are horrible. The surfaces are more or less exceptable, but the corners and edges are awful (s. pictures). It looks like the print-head starts to early changing direction.

I tried everything: change speed (20mm/s), higher jerk value. Results always the same.
I also changed filament type, the white cube is PLA, the black is PETG.

I can‘t take it and longer, but my three other cheap chinese printers are doing a better job. I think, I‘ve done something wrong or not exact enough.

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Orders for x/y steppers interpreted wrong sometimes

by Heliart

If I send a command, for example X+50, then the carriage goes from left to right. Or the y-axis is moving, but not always. The error is not reproducible.
And sometimes, if I'm sending a command the moving is rough and loud.

Seems that I've cabled something wrong?

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Wiring plan for x/y steppers right?

by Heliart

Hi Ben,

if I look at the wiring plan at the x/y steppers, they are wired in a different way then the others.

The color code for x/y steppers are green-blue-red-black. If I'm doing in this order, then I will get a shortage. All other steppers are wired blue-red-green-black.

2nd question is for the end switches. They are always closed, other they are triggered, then they will open,right? - Tom

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