I have a mirror with a sheet of PEI attached to the bed of my printer (with the ubiquitous binder clips) and everything is working fine. I have been printing PLA at 60C bed temp. But I am about to try ABS for the first time which needs a much higher bed temp. So I'm wondering if the mirror/PEI combo reduces the surface temp of the build surface to something less that the set value. I would think it might, for no other reason that the mirror has a layer of mercury between the aluminum bed and the glass of the mirror. And then there's the PEI too. I don't have anything to measure the actual temp of the build surface, so just wondering if anyone has made any observations about the actual temp of the build surface vs. the temp setting.
I'll be printing a mask face up, it needs touching buildplate support and I wonder what settings will give me good support under the face, but easy, clean removal? I've not used supports much but enough to know sometimes it removes easily and other times it can be a nightmare. Trying to avoid the nightmare here. It's a long print and I need to make two with no time for experimenting so hope someone can help.
I print with Cura PLA Low Quality defaults, last time I used support these were the settings... it worked ok but if there's better I'd like to know - these are just guesses :)
Support overhang angle 60,
Pattern Zig Zag,
Horiz Expansion 0.2 (default),
Support Infill Layer Thickness 0.15 (default),
Infill Steps 0 (default)
f/w Marlin TH3DUF 1.8.5
I have a modded cr10s and have switched the 2 Z stepper motors to the front . BLTouch seems to have a hard time homing Z axis. It boots up fine and does a self test.
Using G28 or Autohome on the controller should send it down to the center home position, but instead goes up.
I've switched the stepper cable pins around so should send it in the correct direction downwards, but it still goes upwards.
X and Y do home correctly but the red light on the BLTouch does not illuminate like it should with the pin extended.
Would it be better to switch the cables around on the board and returning the cables to their original position on the motors?? If i remember the z axis upgrade included a new cable what i used which was split at the printer end to plug into each motor and a single connector at the other end fitted to the board.
Maybe thats the issue.
I have found that over time, material builds up on the inside of my nozzle causing a kind of clogging I cannot resolve. It can't even be called a clog really, the passage is actually clear. The problem appears to be that the material cannot heat up properly inside the nozzle because the walls are lined with goo. This means that while the printer can extrude, it requires far too much force to do so (extruder skips etc).
Keep in mind this particular E3D V6 nozzle has only ever printed PLA, though the goo is most likely comprised of dust and other foreign particles.
So far I have found no way to clean this out. Things that have failed:
- Simply printing. This is not something that goes away after passing enough filament through.
- Burn it out. No temperature seems to make a difference.
- Cleaning filament. I've run prodigal amounts of it throughout the entire temperature range to no avail.
- Cold pulls. They work great for most clogs but this goo does not bond at all. I must've done dozens of them and they all come out squeaky-clean, with the nice little shape at the end to prove they went all the way into the nozzle, but the goo is still there. Tried with both PLA and cleaning filament.
- Heat gun.
- Needles and wires. The nozzle hole is clear, they can pass right through.
- Tweezers and such. Just can't get a grip on it. Any attempt of forcefully getting a grip on it (i.e. scraping it off) would destroy the nozzle.
So basically this slowly degrades the performance of my nozzles over time (with the usual number of "normal" clogs along the way) until the nozzle becomes useless. At that point I have to throw it away and start the cycle over with a new nozzle. If anyone knows what can be done about this, I'm all ears.
Here are some close-ups of a bad nozzle and a brand new one for comparison. Although you can't see it in these pictures the hole of the bad nozzle is actually clear, I can see through it with the naked eye and fit 0.4mm needles through.