I have looked around a bit but can't find the stock control board fan specifications. I'm looking to upgrade my OEM Fang extruder duct and want to get a good fan but don't want to burn out that circuit on the board. Does anyone know the output specs?
I posted an issue with my Z stepper overheating a few days ago.
It came down to just buying some new steppers, which i did.
And then i thought to check... just in case so i touched the Z upper metal parts with my screwdriver voltage tester. And the light appeared.
So, there is some kind of voltage leaking through.
Its not enough to zap me, and not enough to feel it by fingers... luckily.
Since my X stepper was grinding and making a lot of noise, i put a new stepper there and put the x stepper on the place of the Z one. Thinking that x stepper has a few more Amps so even if its creaking it will work a bit better. and the new stepper are a bit too tall to replace z easily.
Now that stepper is also showing voltage.
I havent yet measured exactly how much its going through. The light is relatively dim, but there is light in my voltage tester.
The other steppers are fine and the frame isnt showing anything.
Anyone ever seen something like this?
Any... idea what could be causing this?
I've had a CR-10 for a few months now and it has printed just fine for hours and hours but now recently it has been clogging. I did about a week of troubleshooting and trying to fix random problems. The main problem appears to be that the extruder is not heating to what it says it is which causes the filament to heat slowly and then clog easily. When the screen reads 260ºC, it can barely melt PLA. If the thermistor was broken, then I feel it would not read temperature at all. The heating element easily gets hot enough. I tried removing the thermistor and heating it for about 30 seconds and it easily got to a hot enough temperature to melt material. Anyone have advice for what I should do? For a long term fix, I realize I will likely need a new part, maybe a thermistor or the whole hot end but a short term fix would be great because I have a 3D printing project that I need done in 2 days. Thank you!
My Cr-10 has a defective external mosfet and needs to be replaced. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and knows where I could get one. I saw a Youtube video that showed one but the person said that he had to splice the wires because the polarity was reversed and I was wondering if this is going to be something that will be with any mosfet or if the person was just using the wrong one. Any help is appreciated so thanks in advance. If you're curious this is the video that I saw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENqpIL4Wk-s
I've posted a few of my issues on here before, and found fixes, yet here we are with them even worse than before with seemingly no solution, and more inconsistency involved as well.
My CR-10 does make the occasional good print, but it's very rare at this point. It makes a stringy mess the rest of the time. I've read that the filament curling up can be a couple of things, being the wrong distance between the nozzle, a small clog in the nozzle, wrong bed temp, and a lack of a good adhesion method. I've tried several things (printing paper, lined paper, business cards, even my debit card) as guides for bed leveling. I've used glue, tape, and bare glass for adhesion. I've tried the different temperatures. Nothing seems to work consistently.
Today, I started out with these issues. After switching to a brand new nozzle (to eliminate the clog possibility) and releveling the bed a few times, I started to get a good print. Unfortunately, my nozzle wasn't quite tight enough so some filament seeped out the top and left a nasty blob in the middle of my print. I haven't been able to even get a print started since, even with the exact same setup that I had before (with the nozzle tightened, of course). I did notice that in some places, it over extrudes, while in others, it under extrudes. I have some start Gcode that makes it prime the nozzle with a line across the side, and the line is wavy (showing the extrusion inconsistency). When it prints the first layer, it prints little dots as it travels, which I definitely find interesting. Also, the part that printed well (well, half of it did) printed at a slightly smaller scale than it was supposed to (it was a phone case, the dimensions in Cure were correct but the case ended up the same size as my phone itself). I can account for that, but if anyone knows how to calibrate that, I'd love to learn.
I think it's worth mentioning that I've tried adjusting the machine (tightening bolts, adjusting E-steps, ect) with no visible improvements. I'm printing with eSun PLA+, which requires higher printing temps, and I also have white Hatchbox PLA that gives the same problems. I've got a very (very) small amount of the filament that came with the printer left, and that also gives the same issues, so I'm doubting it's a filament issue at this point.
Any ideas on how I can get it to print as well as it did a few months ago? It ran perfect out of the box for 4 months... I don't know what happened. It started when I first got the Hatchbox, but after some adjustment, that printed fine. It's worsened over time, gotten better at times, and then gets worse again. I don't understand, and as someone that's usually a go-to guy for things like this, it's utterly frustrating. Hopefully one of you has an idea of what's going on with it. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post. I'm just trying to get every detail that comes to mind to help narrow it down if I can.
Also, several of you have mentioned the glass. I forgot to mention that I've tried the stock glass, a piece of tempered glass from my local glass shop, and mirrors. Currently I am using a mirror. However, I have checked every piece with a couple of straight edges, and it appears to me that ALL of them are perfectly flat, even the stock glass.