Hey if you guys are not a follower of CHEP'S Filament Friday you should check out these tools he uses. I have them both and I love them. I got them at a great price and I am one who does not do a lot of promoting but I bought them, I use them and I love them.
Between the two of these, there is a tool for anything I need to work on my printer.
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
Just thought I would share.
And again, another problem with my Cr-10 mini just appears out of nowhere.
I never had this issue, didn't change settings, filament or touched/used the printer, but still suddenly this issue appeared overnight.
Prints with top layer "linear" (I use the latest CURA) look very blobby and overextruded. (See attatched pic!)
I print at 210, bed 55, speed 50mm/s, retraction 4/50.
I tried setting the flowrate on CURA and the printer itself to 80%, same problem.
The PFTE tube is in good condition, and inserted far enough into the hotend.
I just replaced the Nozzle. Different brand filament didn't change anything.
Tried stock CURA profiles, no change. Leveled the bed multiple times.
There does seem to be some kind of pressure issue: when opening up the bowden drive while printing, the filament instantly jumps back 2-4cm.
The filament seems to be under A LOT of pressure, though it only VERY rarely skips the stepper motor.
i'm sure there is no blockage though, and i just changed the PFTE tube for a new one, and got fine prints with it before.
Other than that i'm at a loss here...
Anyone has any suggestions?
I have a CR10 that I've installed a BLtouch on. The wiring for the Bltouch is working fine but I am having a few issues.
When i select level bed on the control box it does to the middle of the bed, checks to see if its level, the it moves to the right. Thats the problem though. the X axis moves to the right but doesnt stop moving to the right. I have to shut off the printer. It seems like it doesnt know where to check for locations on the bed for being level.
Secondly, the same thing happens when I try to auto home.
Lastly (for the time being) if someone has a good guide to how to properly calibrate my bltouch it would be appreciated.
I'm in the process of doing the E3D V6 upgrade for my CR-10S S4 (12V). E3D uses Molex Micro-Fit connectors on their fan/thermistor wires but they do not put connectors on their heater cartridges and they instruct users to splice them directly. I would prefer to make my printer as modular as possible so now I'm wondering: why is that? Perhaps the current draw of the heater cartridge exceeds the limits of common connectors?
If using a connector is not a Bad Idea™, which connectors would you recommend?
EDIT: A 40W heater at 12V would draw ~3.3A. This exceeds most JST connectors but the Molex Micro-Fit connectors are rated for 8.5A so I'm thinking they should be fine here too.
I was playing around with Marlin 1.1.9 over the weekend. It's got a lot of new features, including Creality's power loss recovery. One slight problem, I couldn't get it working. The Z axis failed to home, it went up instead of down, and then the printer required a reset.
I tried with the included CR-10S example configuration, I also tried with my custom configuration set up for ABL. In both cases, X and Y home as expected, bute the Z axis raises a few mm, pauses, then raises a few more mm before stopping. The LCD then reports "Homing failure" and requires a reset.
Has anyone gotten Marlin 1.1.9 to work on CR=10S? If so, how did you do it? I have the feeling that there's a false somewhere in Configuration.h that should be a true or vice versa.