Okay, i got the message a bit wrong i think, but that's what it reported and seams to be it can't read the right (it's a CTC dual replicator 1 clone).
might be tempoary? just seamed to happen.. i wondered if maybe i knocked something at some point cause the cable for the thermistor is pretty damn close to the print head.. anyway.. kinda wandering about advice..Also, wandering about possible replacements..what i got seams to be a fair size tube that slots into the print head, but all the ones i find are small things.. maybe need to click into the metal tube? i'm not sure ^_^; so any ideas and information would be nice
I've run into a strange issue with my CTC Dual. Its a couple years old and has run great from day one. Recently the extruders started stuttering badly ruining prints. I've cleaned the hot ends like crazy, no clogs, and the ptfe tube is in good shape with no kinks. Its literally as clean as you can get it. The issue seems to be the motor or driver. Its as if it is not getting enough power to function properly. I disassembled the extruder while running and could visibly see the motor stalled. Are there any methods to increase power to the extruder motors? My stepper driver boards do not have an adjustment pot.
Here's a video of it attempting to print. You can hear the Tap Tap of the extruder motor stalled. Both sides do this identically: https://youtu.be/XJ0u2gOI0dQ
Hey guy, I am an avid 3D printer modder, in hopes to improve every facet of performance.
With the many differences between the CTC Replicator and the Makerbot Replicator 2, one significant difference is the Y axis drive system. In the Rep 1 and alike clones, you can tell that there are two rods in front and back running along the length of the machine linking both Y-axis belts to the Y-axis stepper motor. In the Replicator 2/ 2X, there is only one rod connecting the two belts and the other ends of the belts are free to move independently.
I imagine that with less weight in the drive system, there would be less drag as a whole. And tightening the belts is a whole lot easier with one end of the belt un-restrained by the system. With this in mind, I replaced one of the Y-axis drive rods with a similar mechanism used in the makerbots. Basically just two smaller rods secured in place with bearings for each belt. Ill include a picture for reference.
It works perfect and I do notice significantly decreased vibrations while in operation. I was wondering if any of you were aware of this difference, and if anyone has some extra insight as to which system may work better. A closed drive system or an open drive system basically.
The pics are before and after
Ok so I have had my CTC Twinmaker for a couple weeks and had some successful prints from it via usb but I have not once been able to print from SD card and while trying to fix the potential issue with not being able to print from the SD card I tried flashing it to a newer version and now the printer will print up to a point and then stop, did the failed flash attempts caused this or is it something more? Any help in trying to get this fixed would be greatly appreciated as it seems to me to be a great piece of kit once its working fine.
Okay, really, it's not a HUGE-HUGE thing but something that would be nice.. On my CTC twincaster (Makerbot replica 1 dual clone) i can't seam to get the SD card slot to work. That is, i use oldish cards in the way that they are under 2gb. If i insert the card and the card doesn't use Fat16, it complains that it is the wrong format type.. so it does clearly read the card. But when i put the files on the card that has been correctly formated, it displays the file menu but it's blank.. just 'exit menu' written there as if there was no file there at all.. It's firmware is default, version 7.5 (or 7.4... i'll have to double check).. The printer didn't come with an SD card. I have tried S3G and X3G file types (even tried gcode). I can print from USB without any problem