I screwed up big time when I upgraded to sailfish, and now I don't have offsets and accelerations. Can you please post yours, I know those may be slightly different in my machine, but at least I'll have something to start from. Thank you in advance.
Hi, I got a CTC Twincaster, which is a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone and it's been fine, much better since I installed a cooling fan. however there are a couple of things bugging one and one of them seams to be a new problem that has happened. The Right (Main) nozzle seams clean but printing is pretty crap.. there are gaps in the layers where with a bit of a push (less needed if I print cooler) the layers just separate, the raft has 'missing' gaps like it's just under extruding at places.. but I don't feel a jam or any blockage on the nozzle. On the images with the black PLA, it's on the Left. The Right side in them is printing it from the Left hand nozzle which gives a smaller raft size but much better print.
Both were printed 230c with a heated platform of 70 (it's cold at the moment and I find a bit extra temp helps well). I've tried cooler and it's worse not better. Since the effect is shown on both Black and White, I don't think it's the filament. I had a tiny bit of an older one which printed fine in the past (say 2 weeks back) but that's run out now and wasn't much better at the moment..
Anyone got any ideas? or is this the completely wrong place for this?
Hey I have a complete CTC Bizer Dual M/B updated to the latest Sailfish for sale. It's was pulled from a working printer and has the original drivers and LCD plus keypad with SD card slot.
Brisbane, Australia... Anyone interested drop me a line.
I just like to share something I found on the web that allows me to view thumbnails of STL files in Windows Explorer. Maybe you already know, but others might find it as useful as I do...
Install the software and follow the steps in the RTF document on the same site. It works for me on my Windows 10 desktop.