CTC i3 pro B to threaded rods frame

by gregorb


I'm thinking about converting frame to threaded rods frame like reprap mendel.
Ive have found this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2728742

Is there something similar, already done/tested like this thing above?


Geeetech i3 Clone
View Comment

3D touch sensor installation and configuration

by Jaymboii

I have a CTC prusa i3 pro B, It has a GT2560 rev A board. I've downloaded the latest version of marlin (1.9) and done the necessary changes to enable the sensor.

Gcode to deploy and retract the pin works, as does the self test, however, when I attempt to home the Z axis, without fail every time, the nozzle crashes into the bed and the probe doesn't deploy at any point

When I send M119 when the pin is triggered, I'm intermittently getting open/triggered signals. I'll send the code 10 or so times and get open, then randomly get a triggered signal, even though it should be triggered all the time..

If anyone has any ideas as to what may be the problem id be really grateful for the help, i've been at this for 3 days and no results so far.

auto_bed_leveling BLTouch BLTouch_levelling CTC_prusa_i3 Triggered
View Comment

Am8 upgrade

by BatGlenn

I've a ctc prusa and I'm wanting to upgrade it to an AM8 which is originally for the anet prusa. Has anyone went through this conversion process and if so is there anything else I need to get to make it work?

View Comment

Have you got Y axis issue?

by Alex_Y

Just have had an issue with print quality where Y axis layer's rear end surface was shifted sometimes by 1/4 mm, front surface fine. Supposed loose belt, tightened it and result was much worse. When removed belt to inspect it if something was caught and started blocking it I've realized bed carriage is running like old rusty bearing. With belt on I've though it is just stepper. Added drop of silicone sewing machine oil per balls row (4 per bearing) and realigned them. It was preassembled in kit so never touched it but apparently should.
By the way Y belt fitting to carriage is way too high, will have to print new fitting.
So if you have print quality issues check bearings.

View Comment

incorrect extruder bearing?

by Soundwave12345

I cant get enough tension on my filament (1.75 mm) but i can't tighten my extruder upgrade anymore. does any one know where to get a new, better bearing that works with the mk8?

View Comment

All motors are inverted?

by JorKsX

So my printer was working fine and everything.
I wanted to sort out that cable mess so I disconnected everything.
After I re attached all cables and checked if all axis move I noticed that when I move Y or X or Z or extruder motor, they wont move when I go ++, If I go -- then the motors move but wrong direction.
I dont know if I explained good enough but when I press auto home, extruder moves to the right up, and bed moves infront.
extruder should come to left down and bed back.

So what am I missing?
Everything was working fine before I disconnected everything.
All axis are in right place, X is X axis and Y is Y etc....

View Comment

CTC i3 Pro B tune-up

by jpnurro

I bet that this in one of the most value for money unit available. Obviously below 150,- (€/$, with shipping & VAT) price tag gives some challenges so there is a room make the unit even better with small efforts.

Things I have noticed:
-Even the unit comes nearly build, you need to do every bolt to rebuilt the unit
-The frame is the 5.2mm playwood. It could be more thicker to get more ridged but PVA (wood) glue makes a big difference. Sand off the paint where there are wood to wood connection and glue them with the bolts. Leave the rod's top plates not glued for the service.
-With top plate nut's you can place !_! shape printed shims for extra strengths
-During the installation check that rods & rails are strait, roll them top of the mirror.
-Below X-axis holders you can print Z-wobble prevention parts but let rods wobble loose in the top plates. (not 1st priority I you made rods good)
-Extruder might need a bit extra current. If keeping noise turn stepper controller trim clockwise 30-45 degrees
-Many of printer kits are having a poor electric security. Very first print covers for the power unit & switch !
-To improve the printing quality the cooling for the extrude area is recommended
-Best print quality I'll get with extrude level 95%, so you might check what suits with your filament
-If you having the issue about the print sticking, few drops (with moist whipe) of the same PVA glue on the glass makes the trick
-The filament needs to roll with ease (obviously) to help this you might install bowden guide tube even keeping the stepper with the extruder
-If you need to open extruder keep the heating on. This way the PTFE tube (2x3mm) inside comes out nicely as well
-The tube goes inside the extruder nozzle to avoid leakage, when ordering the new one check that nozzle is 3mm instead 1.75mm

  • The extruder is MK10, despite e.g. ebay titles hints MK8
    -The mother board is (GT)2560 revA, which is a good board but have no bootloader. If you want to modify the firmware you'll need USBasp programmer. The re programming is possible via SDCard connetor but the pins are not match with the programmer's cable.
    -Nice add on is the place self sticking 12V white leds below X-mount to light up the printing area. The power you can get from extruder fan
    -Extruder fan needs a cover so that the fan blades won't get damaged by accident.

Edit: Forgot to mention two more add ons
The main frame & Y-axis rods are lacking the additional 10mm nuts & shims. Secure the bottom of the mainframe with 4 nuts&shims
Bellow the heatbed I placed a folio covered card to make the bed heat up more quickly

View Comment

Replacement nozzles

by joebywan

Anyone got a link to replacement nozzles for the i3 pro b with stock extruder head?

View Comment

upgrade to dual extruders

by Herkes78

Hi Guys

I am relative new to 3D printing, I bought a ebay CTC prusa i3 clone about 6 months ago which took a bit of getting used to and ironing out a few bugs. I am now enjoying my printer and printing off various upgrades for it, one being upgrading to a E3D V6 and Bowden extruder. eventually I would like to upgrade my printer to a duel extruder but I am not sure how to go about it.

The firmware on my printer is prusa I3 B, d0 i need to upgrade my firmware to I3 C for dual printing?
I have also read that setting the two hot ends is a bit of a nightmare so i was looking into using a single hotend with a Y adapter or using a E3D Cyclops for this but do i need to change anything in the firmware for using a single hotend?

Any pointers would be gladly appreciated.

View Comment