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Does anybody know what these marks might be?

by dcabanero

Hi guys,

First of all thanks for your help. My printer has been misbehaving for the past few weeks. I can see marks parallel to the X and Y axes. Initially I thought they where underextrusion marks but when I look at them closely I can see that the layer is correctly extruded. It appears to be a misalignment between layers and only in certain areas.

Thanks again!

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ERRF2018

by NAK3DDesigns

Let me first say I am in no way affiliated with ERRF2018, but that said I think as a community we need to support this so it will continue for years to come.

MRRF is an experience everyone should get to have if all goes well ERRF will give us all on the east coast a similar experience.

Come check out ERRF 2018, there are gonna be lots of big names in the 3D printing industry there.

https://www.eventbrite.com/o/3dp-events-llc-16798097296
https://www.facebook.com/ERRF2018/
https://twitter.com/ERRF2018

I'll be there with my fleet of upgraded Da Vinci's and my latest creation that has been dubbed the "MegaFrankenVinci"

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XYZware Pro software for Mac not working

by LesterM

After using my Davinci pro 1.0 for a while the XYZware Pro software just stopped working. XYZ said it was an upgrade problem with mac and I started using S3D (excellent programme). The software was updated from 1.2.18 to 1.2.19 which was meant to sort the problem but the problem still persists - when I go to print, the application just quits and asks me to report to Apple.
Anyone else experienced this?

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XYZ Davinci 1.0 Flashed with Repetier 0.92 Help!

by codyjat

So awhile back i got tired of XYZ filaments being expensive and colors out of stock. I flashed my Davinci with Repetier 0.92 and hooked it up to octoprint. Ran into a lot of problems with bed leveling and setting up the settings. I thought I had everything figure out since the remaining XYZ filament I had appear to be printing pretty good.

  Did research on what filament to switch to and found Hatchbox with the great reviews and good price point wanted to go with them. Don't think I have been able to get a single good print. Every print has problems and I can't figure it out. I have worked with Hatchbox for awhile using an entire 1KG roll troubleshooting with them. I have done temp tower at different speeds, turned off/ on the fan, disassembled my hot end to ensure everything was clean, and purchased a infrared thermometer to test temperatures at the hot end. I can't figure out what is wrong and think it just has to be settings. 

  This is my first 3D printer and had it since before Christmas and just want it to work. Not looking for perfect print but atleast decent quality. I will be attempting to attach photos but have alot for you guys to see. Attached to this post will be most recent prints. I want to say thanks ahead of time since I have been working on this for months.
Davinci_10 Da_Vinci Hatchbox Hatchbox_Filament Octoprint repetier repetier_firmware repetier_host XYZ_Da_Vinci
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XYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0 PRO troubleshooting

by ChatToBrian

As I was one of the first owners of this printer, I found out a lot of things not mentioned in the manual of this printer. Some of them really stupid, some of them really an issue for the people at XYZPrinting to work on. However, I found a solution for almost any problem now. Here are my tips.

READ DOWN BELOW FOR NEW IMPROVEMENTS SINCE SOFTWARE VERSION 1.1.4.1

  • Calibration returns FAIL
    If the calibration returns fail, but all 4 points are measured, the bed is so much out of level, It can't do the right measurements. Turn the knobs clockwise 7 quarters and try again. If the result is still a FAIL, go counterclockwise 14 quarters and try again. Repeat this in bigger increments until you get a result and hints on how to calibrate on the screen of the printer.
    if less then four points are measured, the measuringpoint left of the nozzle is dirty, or the last meassured point is dirty. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and try again.
    If you tried all this and still get a fail, something else is wrong. Try contacting XYZPrinting and ask for help there. In the mean time you can calibrate manualy (see bottom of this post).
    Reaction of XYZPrinting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Or2cpvueQ

  • When using non XYZPrinting filament, XYZWare says cartridge empty or not enough filament to complete the job
    This was a problem in one of the early firmware releases and this problem is solved. If you have this problem, make sure you have the latest firmware on your printer.

  • Ticking noise while printing (multiple problems possible)
    1) When you take a quick look in the printer while printing, you will see the feeder cable is slamming against the top of the printer. The only way to stop this happening is by doing a modification to your printer, but if you don't, the feeder cable will damage. This is a design problem, so people of XYZprinting, If you are reading this, provide us with a solution from your side please. Read the comments from Bromego (Dec 14 2015) on this topic for a solution.
    Reaction of XYZPrinting (You can see their cable is on an angle):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUuOLWGzmZc
    2) When you gently hold the filament going in to the printer and you feel the ticking also in the filament, the problem is comming from the extruder. I happen to have this problem only in the first layer of my print. After the first layer, the ticking sound stops. Some other people reported that the ticking continued the whole print. I don't know what the problem is then, but you should contact XYZPrinting for a sollution on this one. (if in the future flowrate control would be build in into the printer, this might solve the problem).
    Reaction from XYZPrinting: Clean the load filament motor gear:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BDvx92UwJE
    3) Look inside the printer at the upper left side. There is a plastic guard on the aluminum frame to protect the cables from getting cut. This guard comes loose and hits the side of the printer with a loud clicking sound. Fasten it and the ticking noise is over.

  • SD Card Error
    1) There is a SD card slot in the printer as memory for the printfile XYZWare sends to the printer. Sometimes the XYZWare software is not able to write it's file to the SD card. Switch the printer off and on again, now it will problably be fixed. If the problem persist, remove the backpanel of the printer and remove the SD card carefully. Re-insert the card and try again.
    2) After the firmware update 1.2.3 some users report they don't have this issue anymore. This might be coincidence, or.......
    3) If nothing works and the error repeats... See the comment of sfraden at December 28 2015. He has the tip to replace the micro SD card for a new one from a better brand. I have done this myself and my problems are gone!

  • Firmware update fail (Screen says to call support)
    A scary message, but there is a fix. Switch off the printer and press and hold the up and down button while switching the machine on again. This brings the printer in it's bootloader and now you are able to try the firmware upgrade again. If the problem persist, remove the backpanel of the printer and remove the SD card carefully. Re-insert the card and try again. Now repeat above steps.

  • ABS not sticking to printbed at 90 degrees Celcius (highest temperature)
    1) Use a good tape on the aluminum printer bed. I use Kapton tape and that works extremely good. There are also other good tapes, like the one provided by XYZPrinting when you buy the printer, but in my opinion, Kapton is the best tape you can use.
    2) You read a lot about glue stick, don't you? But not every glue stick is good. For example here in the Netherlands we have a brand called Pritt (biggest supplier of gluesticks here), there gluesticks are no good for 3D printing because they are to moist for this application. I have had very good results with UHU gluestick. You can buy them around the world and they are really the best I have found so far. If the glue gets to hard on the printbed, use a moist, warm towel and place that on the printbed for a few minutes. The glue becomes soft and can be removed easily.

  • top of the print bed comming loose.
    While I was removing some tape from the print bed, I noticed that the top layer of the aluminum bed came loose from the actual bed itself. Then I saw what caused some layer movement in my prints. This was due to the fact that the top of the print bed could easily be moved while printing. The solution was a simple self made holder at the front and back of the plate that holds the plate in place. You can't do it from the sides because the printhead can reach the sides and could hit your holder, but at the front and back you can safely mount something to the bed to hold it in place.

  • Printer counts meters from installed cartridge while using external filament
    When you are using external filament, you MUST remove the original cartridge with Da Vinci filament, otherwise the counter will count down the meters filament you are using as if you are using the cartridge. The fun thing is that your own printer settings for the filament are being used, so for example, the installed cartridge is PLA and you are using ABS then the printer knows your heat settings are from ABS, but still it counts down the meters from the PLA cartridge.
    (if you just remove the chip from the cartridge, the thing doesn't know there is a cartridge installed anymore)

  • Settings on the printer don't match settings in the software
    Since the 1.2.3 firmware, you can't set unreachable temperature settings in the printer anymore, like 120C for the bed. This was possible only in previous firmware versions.
    Still, the settings are a bit odd. You can set the bed temperature, the nozzle temperature and the unload temperature, but when giving the printer a printjob from XYZWare for Pro, the settings from the software are used. Then I thought these settings are for printing with Microsoft 3D Builder. In that software you can't set temperatures for your printer, but the printer can be controlled from 3D Builder. Funny enough this also doesn't work, because both the nozzle and the bed won't be heated when giving a print job from 3D Builder.

  • Not being able to place normal filament at the back of the printer
    While the Da Vinci 1.0 Pro is an open filament printer, you don't get a spool holder for placing a filament spool near the printer. Therefore I designed one, you can download the thing here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1234196
    Make sure to read the instructions AND to remove the top cover of the printer prior to installing the holder. U can place the cover back after it is installed. Da Vinci 1.0 Pro users can use the .3w file I provided, but only if you use ABS plastic. If you use PLA, slice the part yourself.

  • Some users reported problems with the Feeder Engine on the printer, making ticking noises or having problems with parts that are not aligned correct.
    Thingiverse user Thaamike received a Dutch language manual how to get to the Feeder Engine of the printer.
    He uploaded this document to Thingiverse. You can find the link in the comments, or attached to this topic.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1249352
    Also, some other users replaced their hot ends and Bowden extruders for E3d V6 kits. They have great results with that. As soon as there is a link with instructions, I will place the link here.

  • Manual printer bed leveling
    If, for some reason, you want to level the bed manualy, this is not very difficult to do if you follow this guideline. Before you do so, place tape over your printbed (blue painters tape for PLA, Kapton Tape for ABS), then:
    1) Go to the menu of the printer, point the cursor at UTILITIES and press OK
    2) Go to Z OFFSET and press OK
    3) Set the Z OFFSET at 1.35 and stay in this menu
    4) very gently slide the printhead over the bed WITHOUT FORCE. If the nozzle hits the bed, use the thumb screw to lower the bed. Make sure you can freely move the nozzle over the whole service area of the print bed.
    5) Take an 80 grams piece of paper and place the nozzle above the front thumb screw
    6) Slide the paper between the nozzle and the print bed and turn the thumbscrew to raise the bed. When you feel the paper having friction, you are done.
    7) Repeat this for the other thumb screws. Place the nozzle above them and do the same procedure.
    8) After you have finished all three thumb screws, repeat from step 6 one more time. The leveling of the thumb screws in the back also adjusted the front just a little bit, thats why you do all screws a second time.
    9) You are done. The leveling is complete. Press the HOME button in the right top corner to go to the top level menu.
    10) because you now can't place glue on the print bed, you have to manualy lower the bed with the JOG MODE in the UTILITIES menu. Use the Z axis 010mm to lower the bed. If this won't work, you first have to select HOME AXES in the same UTILITIES menu to let the printer determine it's homing position.

SOFTWARE UPDATE 1.1.4.1

at 2-february-2016 XYZPrinting released software version 1.1.4.1
This version includes the option to use Gcode, made by Cura or Slic3r. This means we no longer MUST use XYZWare for Pro to slice our prints, but we still have to use this program to upload the Gcode to the printer.

  • Cura
    After my first tests with Cura, I found out that the sliced Gcode imports perfectly in XYZWare for pro and gets uploaded to the printer very fast (faster then I was used to). When the file is in the printer, the printer raises the bed and starts heating up, but then something strange happend. I had the temperature in Cura set to 240C for the nozzle and 45C for the bed (Nylon settings). The printer heated both the nozzle and the bed at the same time (never seen that before) but at 45C for the bed, it didn't stop. It went all the way up to 90C and at that time the nozzle was 200C and there it stopped.
    What ever I did, I couldn't get the temperatures right, so I had to cancel this print job because my Nylon got stuck in the nozzle.
    (I will continue to try to get Cura working...)

  • Slic3r
    WhoopWhoop... Succes :-)
    I sliced the same part as I did in Cura and I gave it the same settings. I made the Gcode with Slic3r and then I uploaded it to the printer via XYZWare for Pro. The bed raised to the top, the temperatures went up (one at a time, as I am used to in XYZWare) and then the printer started printing.
    Everything is faster, the slicing, the uploading, I was flabbergasted. Even the temperature went down after the first layer, exactly as I told Slic3r to do. After this experiment, I am in love with Slic3r, and I must not forget to mention, the display of the machine keeps working and the estimated time is the same rubish as it was before :-)

Thanks XYZPrinting for this great update, or may we call it an upgrade. This makes the printer so much better then it allready was.

The guys at XYZPrinting (sometimes) give great support and also the users in this group share a lot of perfect information, so I am happy with this excelent printer. No other printer in this pricepoint beats it when it comes to quality.

If you also have issues with this printer you are willing to share, please do so.
Sorry if my English is not that good, I am Dutch.

Happy Printing.

Da Vinci 1.0 PRO filament holder Large spools
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