So, i have amazing results with the clear blue and green pla from XYZprinting. I buy it off of amazon for 27$ and i use the paper tag reset trick. Which works great. here is a link to that if you do not know what it is. Basically, its a free phone app that you use to program a sticker for the jr 1.0 to read making it think it has its own filiment in it
Ok, here is my concerns.
I am using some grey hatchbox and with the exact same settings (with a 10 degree temp increase) as i use for the clear green or blue, i get mediocre results. Its not as strong and has gaps in the prints.
I use standard speed, 10% infill, and 0.3 layer height for the blue and green with great results. I use the same settings, but i increse the temp by 10 degrees for the grey hatchbox and my results are not as good as the xyz clear blue or green.(no i dont work for them, just want my hatchbox to print better haha)
Someone mentioned to me to slow it down to slow speed to get better results. I find this upsetting. I spend less money on filiment but i have to spend twice as much time to print to get results that are comparable to xyz clear green or blue. I have a layer cooling fan and everything haha
what can i do to make it print just as good as the clear green and blue with the same settings but with the hatchbox?
here are some photos:
thank you much:)
I've had my Pro 1.0 for about a year now, and I'm loving the heck out of it. However, I want to make sure the machine stays in good condition, so I want to be able to identify if something could be improved or fixed, to make it last as long as possible. If I need to apply lubricant to something, tighten or re-tool something, prevent something from collecting a lot of gunk, etc.
Can anyone recommend any online resources for this? My knowledge of how this machine works is actually pretty minimal. I understand the theory of how the machine produces what it does, but not any of the actual mechanics. For instance, if you told me, "You need to tighten a belt," I'd need for you to tell me what and where the belt actually IS, and then how to tighten it.
I'm new to 3D printing - Got my DV1.0 Pro since 25 days today and it's my first 3D printer.
Earlier I had some experiments with Arduinos and soldering and co., so I am not afraid of tinkering.
I had some problems with the Da Vinci, many of them were frustrating but each had a researchable solution - so I didn't keep my head down or got lazy.
Started to put time in this printer and my first upgrade then was an E3D V6 hotend - a very big improvement, I wouldn't like to use the stock one anymore.
Now to get to the topic: I haven't found much of informations about the electronics of the Pro, so I documented it on my own.
Intention was, to get rid of the stock mainboard, software and all these XYZchains.
I want to share this information with you, as maybe you need these for your own DV Pro and don't know where to start.
Now, this is the actual "cable tree documentation" I got for you: http://i.imgur.com/3BERj9V.jpg
To complete the RAMPS conversion, I actually needed some new optical endstops - i bought random ones for about 2$ each - those have an LED integrated and were more or less easy to install (I used a dremel and fine files to cut/file the old Z+Y mountings, afaik I didn't need to "manicure" the X-mount, think this was big enough to fit the longer endstops.)
I also wired the RAMPS module's power straight to the original PSU. Used the bottom power connector's Yellow (+12V) and Black (-12V) pins on the 12V/5A input on RAMPS and the top connector which is for the bed on the 12V/11A input. Works!
Also, the original "NTC Bed" - the thermistor/temp sensor in the HeatBed showed me some values that can't be real. I know now that you can set some thermistor types, but I haven't figured out the right one for that stock thermistor in the bed - maybe there is a new user table needed, I don't know that yet.
What I did to solve this: In my bed of the DV Pro is a little hole on the upper left side - so when you look from the front, this little hole is all in the back - on the left side.
I liftet the screw with the "distance" connector there, and put in an 100k extruder thermistor, which was laying around from experiments in the past, pressed the thermistor in the hole and "tightened it" up as good as possible so that the thermistor would stay in place.
This is not the best positioning, so I actually am keeping my bed temperature at around 65-75° as I think, it's a bit hotter than that - my proof of concept is: printing with the same ABS as before on lower bed temp AND without a case so there's no heat chamber, it still sticks without any bigger amount of warping.
So my printer is now running RAMPS with the Repetier-Firmware and Repetier-Host and will still need much of time and calibration, till it will print everything as it should.
Also, many things haven't been connected as my picture shows the orange marked connectors - I only connected those to RAMPS.
I hope there is some information for you if you planned to do this conversion too - you can also ask for specific things, if there is something i missed.
Good morning everyone, I have a problem with my da vinci 1.0 pro. during maintenance and general cleaning, I mislaid the bowden spring. now I do not know what to do. where can I buy with the same features? I have tried something but it does not work well. alternatively there is something to change?
I have a Da Vinci.jr 1.0 printer and it's not working. The filament goes through the guide tube and everything but never comes out of the nozzle. I cleaned the nozzle but it still does not work. Because of that I am convinced the filament is getting stuck somewhere in the extruder. If anybody can give me advice on how to solve my problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!