I just had a second incident with my DavinciMini with some significant clogging of the extruder. I've had the printer some 4 years now, so it's given some good life. But this time though the clog was pretty messy (I attached some before and after pictures for reference). After some significant cleanup (which included Heatgun, Dremmel, etc) the printer is back working good. But I was just wondering what would be the expected life from the DavinciMini standard extruder.
GeneralDiscuss on the "General" forum for the Da Vinci Printer Owners group on Thingiverse.
Horrors!!! Was about to fire up the printer to print some X'mas goodies but found that filament would not load.
Using a temp gun, the extruder does not go over 130°C when trying to load filament or in heating/cleaning mode. Display starts off showing extruder temp at 25°C, then goes all the way up to 230°C on the display although the extruder only gets up to around 130°C (and is unable to melt PLA). The extruder temperature seems to fluctuate going up and down between 80 - 130°C.
I've tried testing the thermistor (values were slightly out according to the temp/resistance table) and replaced it anyway with a new one with no change in results.
If I unplug the thermistor, the display shows 10°C (can anyone try this and confirm this?). When I plug it in, it shows 25°C (room temperature)
At this stage I'm thinking it's the logic board in the extruder module that's fried. I'm thinking that unplugging the thermistor should show an open circuit error or should show "-" as the extruder temperature? Can anyone confirm this?
Specific printer model is a Da Vinci Pro 1.0
Hi I have a Da Vinci Jr. 1.0 and I just got a new extruder for my printer and I thought my printer would be fixed. I was wrong. My guide tube would get detached from the nozzle right by the filament spool. The filament would then push the guide tube out of the nozzle so then the filament would come out of the guide tube on the filament side then would just keep going and wrapping and wrapping around my printer until the print is finished. So by the end of the print I see tons of strands of filament wrapped around my printer with no 3d printed product left. Please let me know if you have experienced this problem and how you fixed it. Thank you.
Like the topic says broke my carriage by the right lower bushing, now got a wobble on bed, haven't tried to print yet to see if it affects anything but sure it will. Was in a middle of putting in a new x carriage and oops broke it trying to flip my z rod mount. So my question is has anyone made a different one or am I going to have to source an original one.
has anyone seen or made a hotend carriage for the creality type hotend? im part way through finishing my dual extruder conversion but im after using the creality type hotend so i can use a 2 in 1 out version of that type. it means you dont have to worry about offsets because both filament lines come through the same nozzle.
Since purchasing this machine I have really struggled to get good prints. There was a pesistant problem with the extruder clicking and eventually clogging the hotend. I spent a long time messing with extrusion rates, temperatures and mods to the bowden tube. I replaced the original tube with an E3D capricorn tube. I removed the weird clip from the top of the hotend mount and replaced the short tube with a direct connection through a pneumatic coupler to the filament sensor. The short bowden tube that was removed actually had a small kink in it. All of this made no difference.
Eventually while adding some extra pressure to the filament goung into the extruder i noticed that if i pulled the lever arm back slightly the clicking would stop. I found a small bit of plastic to wedge the arm open slightly and it was transformational. Basically the extruder spring is much too strong and is crushing the filament. This has two effects. Firstly the filament is no longer round and will not fit into the hotend. Secondly after a retraction, the extruder idler needs to 'climb' over the step in filament thickness between the crushed and uncrushed filament.
Today i got the BuildTak Flexplate in the mail. Here are some pics of the unboxing/wrapping;
Now i’ll guide you through the installation of the BuildTak Flexplate system.
It’s a very easy and simple installation, which anybody can do. There is an easy to follow instructioncard included in the box as well, but this will let potential buyers see the ease of installation.
The only ‘tools’ you’ll need are some acetone or other cleaner for your printbed, some cloths/kitchen towels and preferably a creditcard or small squeegee.
First you should prep your printbed. In a previous tutorial i showed you how i made mine swappable.
This came in handy today. If your printbed is still fixed in the printer, don’t worry, the steps will be exactly the same you only will have some less room to work with.
Step 1: Clean the printbed.
Step 2: Place the magnetic base of the BuildTak Flexplate system.
Step 3: Remove the warning sticker from the flexplate.
Step 4: Place the BuildTak sheet on the flexplate.
Step 5:Hard work is over! The flexplate with the BuildTak sheet on it is now easily removable!
Step 6: The BuildTak Flexplate system add’s 3mm to your printbed’s height, so be sure to adjust the Z offset!! I also strongly advice you to recalibrate.
Step 7: When you’ve done the Z offset adjustment and recalibrated your printbed you’re done! Happy printing! I had to increase the Z offset by 3.6mm!! to get my printer working.
When warming up, the flexplate system seems to be 10-15 degrees celsius behind on the printbed. I'll keep monitoring to see if it catches up.
Ok, it stay's about 10-15 degrees celsius colder after about 15 minutes of printing (and of course warm up time before printing) Also very noticeable and important to know is that the corners of the buildtak plate are much cooler! There is another 20 or so degrees celsius difference, about 2,5cm diam from the corners. (which makes sense if you take a close look at the magnetic plate, it's not a square.) So you'd need to set your printbed temps 15degrees or so higher then usual when using this system.